Landseer

Am ready to reassemble TT using stock bearing carriers and without the dampener.

I think I will need the carriers to be positively located in the tube prior to pushing the drive shaft into place, so the carriers don't move during reassembly, nor migrate later.

Any recommendations on how to do this, what to use as pins would be appreciated! Am thinking making a single hole in the tt before and after each carrier, and tapping /loctiting a 4mm bolt in place, but it seems a little bush league.

thoughts?

davek9

I've never reused the old stuff and don't like drilling holes in the TT (think water&rust), but that is what you would need to do,
Also you WILL need to reinstall the anti-vibration weight when using the stock carriers.

Dave K

dr bob

Otto Mechanic

NB: replace "silicon" with "silicone" wherever it appears in the following text.

The way you mount the carriers is with silicon. Measure the depth of each carrier in the TT. Measure from both ends, you'll place two carriers from either end. Make a stick marked with the target TT depth for each carrier, I used 1/2" PVC pipe.

Start with the deepest carrier/bearing on one end or the other of the TT. Gob a bunch of clear (any color will do really) silicon sealant on the end of your stick, run it down the inside of the TT about an inch short of your desired final depth, then swipe it around on the inside of the TT. Pull out the stick and drive the bearing/carrier to the desired depth using a larger PVC pipe that's slightly smaller in OD than the TT ID and also marked for final depth. Repeat for the shallower bearing on the same end of the TT. Switch ends and place the next two bearings/carriers using the same method. Let the silicon cure overnight or whatever it says on the tube.

Worked for me. I wouldn't drill any set screws into the TT.

Otto Mechanic

If it helps at all, I can highly recommend the Black Sea Super Bearings. Constantine does good work and also has the measurements you'll need along with procedures for placing the bearings. Bulletproof bearings. Literally.

sendarius

I have to concur with dr bob's comment about the different friction levels.

When I did the R&R of the original TT bearings for SuperBearings, I removed the drive shaft with my hands, whereas when getting the bearings out of the tube I managed to "neck" a length of 5/8" allthread that I was using as a puller.

Putting the SuperBearings in took the improvised puller, even with the bearings lubed with *ahem*personal lubricant*ahem*, but I pushed the drive shaft in with my gloved hands.

Now if THAT sentence doesn't prompt a salacious response, I'll be surprised.

GregBBRD

I'd love to hear your logic for leaving out the dampener.

Landseer

If I had any logic for it I'd be happy to share.

Clearly its the wrong thing to do.

Mark Anderson

Here is an interesting side note about the dampeners. The rubber carries on them wear out much more often than the bearing carriers themselves. Maybe they are doing way more than many people suspect.
BTW: We are having new ones made as we speak

Landseer

So that's really my reason, the carrier rubber is indeed worn much more than the carriers.

Can you advise if you supply replacements and the price?

I guess I'd also better contact Constantine for that solution. I've got one of his early superclamps, in fact my install pic is on his site. Excellent products.

Rob Edwards

I've been having this conversation with Greg about this (mostly me listending to Greg....), and he pointed out these yellow stickers on the dampers that have a 'frequency' and (I'm guessing) a distance number on them. Here are two examples, one from Seth's '86.5 auto and one from Dwayne's '87 auto. Truthfully I don't know what the numbers mean but will infer that each is 'tuned' differently. Total WAG but is it possible that different dampers were installed at different depths to damp resonances particular to that torque tube? Or maybe there were only a few different damper 'resonance' variants and they'd pull one off the shelf during assembly? Would Porsche have been that OCD?

In any case, Porsche clearly had not only a reason for the damper, but a measurement that individualizes the dampers. And Greg mentioned that there are at least two variations in damper part numbers, early vs. late. Not sure if that aligns with the TT length change in '80 or not.

Seth's: 79 Hz, 21 (? units?) ,


Dwayne's 67 Hz, 22.0 degrees (?)

Mark Anderson

Rob I show more than just 2 frequency's
feel free to come expand your data



base if you like

Harvey928

I just sent my TT off to Constantine's and he installed the Super Bearings. I have been very happy with that. It did not take long at all. Give him a call.

Otto Mechanic

Like decoding ancient egyptian hieroglyphs... "Here we see the the Sun God Ra placing the damper in the tube at a depth of precisely 27 qubits"

Rob Edwards

And of course, Erkka's posted about this in great detail, many moons ago:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928/3850...and-tools.html

Lots of useful TT component measurements and specs in the above thread. Germane to dampers with yellow stickers, there's mention of BC having a damper from an S4 with 72Hz and 20.5 degrees, Erkka mentions one from an '88S4 with 91 Hz and 22 degrees, another with 64Hz. So they're all over the place, literally and figuratively.