Power seat removal....but, no power
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Power seat removal....but, no power
how do I remove power seats from my 84 parts car? There is no power on the vehicle. Any starting points / tips will be appreciated . I am going to put them into my 79 Euro.
thanks for any help!
thanks for any help!
#2
Rennlist Member
I used an external power source connected to the plugs for the seat motors to move it up/down and back/forward when I was in the same boat.
In the absence of that, there is a way to manually crank it back/forward, but need to be careful (IIRC) to not mess up the plastic ends.
In the absence of that, there is a way to manually crank it back/forward, but need to be careful (IIRC) to not mess up the plastic ends.
#4
Three Wheelin'
Ron -
two pin pin connector provides power to entire seat (from underneath). Pretty sure it is brown and red-brown on copper.
on the side of seat, the switch towards the front is the front back motion. You probably could take the switch panel off the side and disconnect the front switch from its connector in the side of seat and power just the front back motor.
the middle switch moves the seat base up and down and the switch in back moves the backrest motor.
It it is helpful to have the seat all the way up (middle switch) to access all 4 Allen head bolts
-scott
two pin pin connector provides power to entire seat (from underneath). Pretty sure it is brown and red-brown on copper.
on the side of seat, the switch towards the front is the front back motion. You probably could take the switch panel off the side and disconnect the front switch from its connector in the side of seat and power just the front back motor.
the middle switch moves the seat base up and down and the switch in back moves the backrest motor.
It it is helpful to have the seat all the way up (middle switch) to access all 4 Allen head bolts
-scott
#5
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
The 2 larger gauge wires in the multi-pin connector are power and ground. When I installed the GT and then 997 seats into my car, I removed those wires from the connector and made an adapter harness to not have to modify the factory wiring
#6
Nordschleife Master
Option 1 - Pull the plastic cover. There is a little white gear with an allen head bolt in it. You can turn the bolt, which turns the gear, which moves the jackscrews and moves the seat. Be careful, there is a tooth missing (on purpose) and the gear 'skips' every time it goes around. Be gentle. This is a VEEEEEEEEEEERY slow process. Not recommended (although it is the 'official' way to do it).
Option 2 - Unbolt the little bracket that holds the stupid and virtually useless gear. Pull the cable. Remove the clip that holds the cable for the other side. Remove that cable. Attach a drill to each cable. One will spin 'forward' the other will spin 'reverse'. The 'reverse' spinning one will loosen the drill chuck up. It also has the potential to 'unspin' the cable, so go easy. I got tired of rechucking the cable and ended up using a pair of vise grips on that cable. Drive the drill on the other cable a few spins, manually spin the vise grips a few turns. If you get too far out of synch, the seat will bind. This is how I did it.
Option 3 - When you pull the plastic cover, you will see the three motors. Forward/back is the middle one. You will see the wires that run the motor. Attach 12v to the connectors and the motor should run. Reversing polarity reverses the motor. I have used this method (sort of) when my switch worked one way but not the other. I used the switch to run it all the way back (?) and then simply reversed the wires going to the motor to run it the other way. This was done using the seat power, not external power. But the principle is the same.
Option 2 - Unbolt the little bracket that holds the stupid and virtually useless gear. Pull the cable. Remove the clip that holds the cable for the other side. Remove that cable. Attach a drill to each cable. One will spin 'forward' the other will spin 'reverse'. The 'reverse' spinning one will loosen the drill chuck up. It also has the potential to 'unspin' the cable, so go easy. I got tired of rechucking the cable and ended up using a pair of vise grips on that cable. Drive the drill on the other cable a few spins, manually spin the vise grips a few turns. If you get too far out of synch, the seat will bind. This is how I did it.
Option 3 - When you pull the plastic cover, you will see the three motors. Forward/back is the middle one. You will see the wires that run the motor. Attach 12v to the connectors and the motor should run. Reversing polarity reverses the motor. I have used this method (sort of) when my switch worked one way but not the other. I used the switch to run it all the way back (?) and then simply reversed the wires going to the motor to run it the other way. This was done using the seat power, not external power. But the principle is the same.
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks all, putting together a plan of attack. Traveling this week and weekend, so it will be next week before I get to play some more...
Last edited by AirtekHVAC; 07-18-2018 at 06:34 PM.
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#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks bro. I’ll find out if I have any needs next week when I tear into it....main goal is getting them out. The drivers bolster has some damage, so I need to get it to a shop for repairs.
#10
Rennlist Member
There is no power on the vehicle.
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The CE panel is gone, all computers gone, harnesses cut, gone, or burned. I will use a battery, some wire, and direct connect. 1st order of business will be figuring out how to get the plastic covers off
#12
Three Wheelin'
Ron -
should be 4 screws. Two are right on the forward face (easy). Two are facing up towards the bottom of the seat IIRC.
you might be able to put the power in through the seat switch harness (easier to get to).
should be 4 screws. Two are right on the forward face (easy). Two are facing up towards the bottom of the seat IIRC.
you might be able to put the power in through the seat switch harness (easier to get to).
#13
Three Wheelin'
Just thought to post this. These photos show the screws you can see for the plastic cover on the bottom of the seat. The other two are facing ‘down’ relative to the these - needless to say there are only two screws holding my cover on now.
#14
Rennlist Member
You should not need power. If you look underneath the seat on the side closest to the tunnel you will see a black rod about 3/8" in diameter. Put a socket and extension on it to lengthen it and move it towards the tunnel. This action disengages the motor gear from the track rack. Now slide the seat forward or backwards to reveal the 5mm socket head capscrews. Remove the 4 screws and the seat will be free. Un plug the main power supply and remove the seat.
#15
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Not sure, but I found the rod, and am able to move the seat backwards and forwards, I can easily remove the front screws, but when I slide it forward until it stops, the rear screws are not exposed. The seat still needs to slide forward app 2 more inches. Is it possible it was all the way back at it’s last position. I was going to hook up a battery and power the seat directly, but I found 3 cables... don’t know what to do now....