need some advice installing cv-joints
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 1,577
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
need some advice installing cv-joints
well, i blew my passenger side/differential side CV joint. I bought another one as well as a boot kit from 928intl.
On the end of the drive-axle (the end that connects to the diff), i have this metal piece that was part of the CV joint. It looks like it had to be pressed on there or something since its pretty right. I already removed the circlip that 'locks' it in.
I was planning to buy a blowtorch and gear puller and some goggles to try and get the thing off. Anyone know of a good method?
Also, once I attatch the new cv joint to the drive-axle, should there be enough room (if i remove the exhaust) to fit it back to the differential and bolt it up? Is there any reason i should have to remove the entire axle or any other part to do this? I have a repair manual, but it appears to be missing this volume as i can't find the instructions.
Also, i'm missing a piece that is vital to the re-installation of the boot. On the cv-joint, there are 2 metal plates. There is a solid metal plate that goes on the back of the cv joint (differential side) to hold the grease in, there is also another plate that is similar but with a large hole for the axle to go into - it is on the axle-side of the joint. Would anyone happen to have that 2nd plate? It is vital for the boot to connect to... and mine is shredded. I asked 928int for a used one, but they sent me the wrong one.
Sorry for the long post, but thanks in advance!
On the end of the drive-axle (the end that connects to the diff), i have this metal piece that was part of the CV joint. It looks like it had to be pressed on there or something since its pretty right. I already removed the circlip that 'locks' it in.
I was planning to buy a blowtorch and gear puller and some goggles to try and get the thing off. Anyone know of a good method?
Also, once I attatch the new cv joint to the drive-axle, should there be enough room (if i remove the exhaust) to fit it back to the differential and bolt it up? Is there any reason i should have to remove the entire axle or any other part to do this? I have a repair manual, but it appears to be missing this volume as i can't find the instructions.
Also, i'm missing a piece that is vital to the re-installation of the boot. On the cv-joint, there are 2 metal plates. There is a solid metal plate that goes on the back of the cv joint (differential side) to hold the grease in, there is also another plate that is similar but with a large hole for the axle to go into - it is on the axle-side of the joint. Would anyone happen to have that 2nd plate? It is vital for the boot to connect to... and mine is shredded. I asked 928int for a used one, but they sent me the wrong one.
Sorry for the long post, but thanks in advance!
#2
Nordschleife Master
If I uderstand it right, it sounds like you may need a new axle.
The inner section of the CV joint is supposed to slide on the splines. That way the shaft effectively gets longer/shorter as the suspension moves. That you're going to use a torch and puller to get it off makes me think it's messed up. If the new inner race moves easily on the splines then you're OK.
You should be able to work the axle into position without removing anything. Would help to have the car jacked up (high) by the body so the suspension hangs down.
Not everything is covered in the manuals. They were intended for professional mechanics who (if they're worth the $85/hr) bring a lot of experience at repairing things.
The inner section of the CV joint is supposed to slide on the splines. That way the shaft effectively gets longer/shorter as the suspension moves. That you're going to use a torch and puller to get it off makes me think it's messed up. If the new inner race moves easily on the splines then you're OK.
You should be able to work the axle into position without removing anything. Would help to have the car jacked up (high) by the body so the suspension hangs down.
Not everything is covered in the manuals. They were intended for professional mechanics who (if they're worth the $85/hr) bring a lot of experience at repairing things.
#3
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Mountains of GA!
Posts: 3,537
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by GlenL
They were intended for professional mechanics who (if they're worth the $85/hr) bring a lot of experience at repairing things.
They were intended for professional mechanics who (if they're worth the $85/hr) bring a lot of experience at repairing things.
#4
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 1,577
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I pulled off the inner-gear race with the help of Andy and a gear-puller he had laying around. It was a tight fit, but it slid off. The splines on the axle look fine.
There is a very specific part that I need which didn't come in the cv-joint kit or cv-boot kit. Here are some pictures for better explanation...
This is the back-plate which came in the boot kit.
I need the front-plate that the boot hooks up to:
I tried 928intl, but whoever took my order sent me another used backplate... would anyone happen to have the front-plate to sell me?
Thanks!
There is a very specific part that I need which didn't come in the cv-joint kit or cv-boot kit. Here are some pictures for better explanation...
This is the back-plate which came in the boot kit.
I need the front-plate that the boot hooks up to:
I tried 928intl, but whoever took my order sent me another used backplate... would anyone happen to have the front-plate to sell me?
Thanks!
#5
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Site Sponsor
"I tried 928intl, but whoever took my order sent me another used backplate...
would anyone happen to have the front-plate to sell me?"
I would suggest contacting 928 International again - Mark runs a VERY reputable outfit, and I'm sure that they will take care of you.
All of us appreciate being given a chance to fix our mistakes...
would anyone happen to have the front-plate to sell me?"
I would suggest contacting 928 International again - Mark runs a VERY reputable outfit, and I'm sure that they will take care of you.
All of us appreciate being given a chance to fix our mistakes...
#6
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 1,577
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i will again on monday.... its just so fustrating to need your car over the weekend, but not have it because of a goof like this. I don't hold it against them much, i know plenty of people have had a great experience with them. Andy especially told me that they have never screwed up an order.
#7
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: St. John's, NF, Canada
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I dissassembled the inboard CV joint to replace a torn boot last summer. The "front plate" you describe is simply pressed on over the outer edge of the CV joint race (dark gray metal disk that is show in your picture). I just tapped it off with a screwdriver and hammer.
This plate did not come in the replacement boot kit and I assume it would not be part of the CV joint either (like the back plate). I'm sure you can get at least a used one from 928Intl, but is there any chance you can salvage the one from your old CV joint housing? Bad news is that you will have to remove the joint again to get this on...
FWIIW, I'd recommend removing the whole axle from the car and replacing the outboard boot while you are at it (it can be done in place, but is a real pain). It is fairly easy to do and makes working on the axle much, much easier. Since you have to undo all the inboard stuff to get at the outboard joint, it is a great to do both boots.
If your interested in details on my experience (just replacing boots, not joints), check out the writeup on my website at http://steveco-928.servehttp.com.
Regards,
SteveCo in St. John's
This plate did not come in the replacement boot kit and I assume it would not be part of the CV joint either (like the back plate). I'm sure you can get at least a used one from 928Intl, but is there any chance you can salvage the one from your old CV joint housing? Bad news is that you will have to remove the joint again to get this on...
FWIIW, I'd recommend removing the whole axle from the car and replacing the outboard boot while you are at it (it can be done in place, but is a real pain). It is fairly easy to do and makes working on the axle much, much easier. Since you have to undo all the inboard stuff to get at the outboard joint, it is a great to do both boots.
If your interested in details on my experience (just replacing boots, not joints), check out the writeup on my website at http://steveco-928.servehttp.com.
Regards,
SteveCo in St. John's
Trending Topics
#8
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 1,577
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
oh believe me, i would use my old plate if i could... but as you can imagine, it isn't very happy with me right now.
On a brighter note, Mark from 928intl called me today and said he would get the plate from an axle laying around and send it out to me today. He will also credit my account back for the wrong part, and let me keep it. What a great guy! I now have restored faith in 928intl.
On a brighter note, Mark from 928intl called me today and said he would get the plate from an axle laying around and send it out to me today. He will also credit my account back for the wrong part, and let me keep it. What a great guy! I now have restored faith in 928intl.
#9
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: St. John's, NF, Canada
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I figured you had thought of that already...and suspected what your picture confirmed. Glad to hear Mark has you straighten out. Top knotch guy and company to deal with, as are all the Big 3.
Regards,
SteveCo in St. John's
Regards,
SteveCo in St. John's
#10
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 1,577
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i find it very odd though that the plate can't be bought individually, and doesn't come in any kit. Is it really THAT rare for a cv-joint to break? If 928intl doesn't sell them, where do they come from (besides parts cars and old axles in the junk yard)?
#11
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Looking in my Parts and Tech Reference Catalog for water cooled models, it appears that the boot kit for a '87-88 944T (951 332 901 00) contains the boot flange you are seeking. Not sure if the CV joints are the same diameter for 928 and 944T though...
#12
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: St. John's, NF, Canada
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I recall asking Jim Bailey about the likelyhood of needed to replace my CV joint due to the cut joint boot (I did not know how long the cut was there). He noted that the 928 CV joint was very robust and many last several 100k kms. After dissassembling mine, it looked like it was brand new (about 140k kms on it at the time) so I can understand what he means. Failure on these must be fairly infrequent.
On the availibility of the front plate, I could only speculate on the answer. The guys who sell the parts are the real experts. I do know that the part did not come in either of the 2 Lobro boot kits I received and it is not listed as a seperate part in PET. Here the screen for the '86 MY FYI.
Regards,
SteveCo in St. John's
On the availibility of the front plate, I could only speculate on the answer. The guys who sell the parts are the real experts. I do know that the part did not come in either of the 2 Lobro boot kits I received and it is not listed as a seperate part in PET. Here the screen for the '86 MY FYI.
Regards,
SteveCo in St. John's