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Found this burnt resistor and wondering if that could cause the weird current thing going on. With the cluster connected and ignition on I get 12V one side of the bulb and 0V the other side. Normal. As soon as I put a bulb in it I get 12V one side and 8-9V the side. hence no lights. Checked all the grounds, in fact removed the dash to clean them all.
Wondering if it may also be the printed plastic circuit on the back of the cluster.
Those look really good.What was the bulb spec for those led lights and how many did you order and where did you buy them ?
Are they available online, and if so do you have a link ? I want to do the same for my 1985 Euro S2
Thanking you in anticipation.
John
Originally Posted by DeWolf
All lights now working and look pretty cool after full led conversion.
Just saw this thread. I’ve seen this exact (same resistor charbroiled) failure mode twice in the last couple of years. Rich Andrade (does LH rebuilds) diagnosed it as (I paraphrase) electrolyte inside capacitor degraded due to time, shorts and kills whatever is downstream.
We are getting to the point where every capacitor needs to be looked at suspiciously. We are beginning the climb up the failure-due-to-time bell curve.
Luckily, yours was rebuildable. That’s not always the case.
07-02-2018, 07:01 AM
Question about The Central Warning System (solved)
