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Of course that's a fuel line crossing in your picture, partially blocking access and the view of the CPS. One of your several tasks with the car will include replacing the soft lines, including the U hose pictured between the rear damper and the fuel pressure regulator. Those parts have screw fittings to the fuel rails on either side, and the return line to the fuel cooler should be replaced too. Remove them now to get them out of the way, put new lines back in.The fuel rails want to come off to replace the hoses and seals and refurb the injectors.
For now, I just need them out of the way to attempt to remove the sensor. Once the car is home I'll go through the car restoring it. Is it simple to remove or is it involved?
The CPS is a sintered iron rod poking down to sit really close to the teeth on the flywheel. You'll want to remove the flywheel. You may have some luck breaking the rod and the housing apart, but there's really no place to drive them to from the to with the flywheel in place. And no good way to get the flywheel out with the gearbox and the torque tube/driveshaft in place. You can try a torch if you think it will make you feel better, but unless you have something to grab on to and pull up, you are goingto do more damage than good with that much heat there.
My idea is to heat the area enough to pick out the plastic and hopefully I can pull it out easier. I've also left the car sitting with a bunch of PB Blaster covering the sensor area so I'm hoping that'll do something. Just in case that doesn't work, how hard would it be to remove the driveshaft tube?
Most cars described as "ran when I parked it" really mean "ran until I parked it". Folks don't just stop driving a good car without a reason. Often that reason is related to "wouldn't start and it was easier to take the Pinto to get to work". Now that original long-forgotten reason for not starting is dwarfed by all the deterioration that's happened since. Know that a car with no major issues needs at least $5k just in rubber and related safety bits to make it safe and reasonably reliable. Fuel hoses, oil breather hoses, intake boots, brake hoses, coolant hoses, battery and cables, brakes,seals to keep the water out, suspension bits and bushings, motor and transmission mounts, CV and steering rack boots, tires, and more. HVAC actuators and AC hoses, if you want those things to work. It's real easy to get way upside down in one of these, even if the car is given to you for nothing. Keep some perspective on what you are doing. Some folks live for the challenge, and that's fine.
My determination is legendary. Speaking of intake boots, the mass air flow sensor doesn't seem to have any rubber seal between it and the engine. Was there suppose to be one?
Hi Dave
All's well here thanks ! And I hope the same for you and Jeanie. Of course I was intending the OP to buy the relay from you :-)
Originally Posted by DR
Hi John,
Hope you are well, all my best to you!
You may be wrong about that above statement, if you look at the relays on my website and then buy somewhere else.... they will not be compatible and cause all sorts of electrical issues.
Duke,
You can also drive the CPS past the flywheel and let it drop out the bottom. When it's touching the flywheel, just move the tip of the CPS toward the back of the car and hit it carefully from above with a punch. Don't damage the CPS housing.
That's some good advice. I was going to go back to the car and give it another attempt but I'm too tired for that today. Friday I'll go. I plan to attack this problem 3 ways.
#1 Use some picks with a blow torch to heat up the plastic and pick out the plastic or heat up the metal picks themselves and then try to pick it out. Just enough to remove the magnet and then I can try to either push it down as you suggested or pull it up like as shown here. https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...s-removal.html
#2 Try to remove the fly wheel bolts without removing the driveshaft. This I think I can do cause I bought a low profile 3/8 wrench I found at Harbor Freight and I have some small torque sockets that I can try to fit in there and remove the flywheel bolts. I believe the bolts are T55. I don't need the flywheel off, or even the bolts, I just need it moved back enough to fit a very long screw driver in there and then push it up with a jack. Should just pop up out then.
#3 There's two teeth missing for the cps sensor on the flywheel, so I figure that maybe if I turn the flywheel so that the two missing teeth are where the cps is, and I can maybe fit a long screwdriver and pop it up with a jack. This one I'm not sure but hey you never know.
Duke,
You do not have to remove the flywheel to push the CPS down past the flywheel. You already have more than enough loose under the car to get it out. Remove as much as you can from above and tap it down and out past the flywheel. Be careful using an open flame in the engine compartment. The fuel cooler is pretty close and there are fuel lines and regulators and dampeners there as well.
Duke,
You do not have to remove the flywheel to push the CPS down past the flywheel. You already have more than enough loose under the car to get it out. Remove as much as you can from above and tap it down and out past the flywheel. Be careful using an open flame in the engine compartment. The fuel cooler is pretty close and there are fuel lines and regulators and dampeners there as well.
Thanks, I'll give that a try. I may just blow torch the picks to heat them up and then go in and pick at it.
Ok, so a lot has happened since I last posted. Finally got the CPS out and put in the new one, and @soontobered84 was right in that you can just push down the remaining portion of the sensor once the magnet was dug out. Put everything back together and... no start. The only difference is that now the car has spark, where before I had to jump the ignition relay to get spark. No RPM's show up when I turn the key and try to crank, but if I spray starter fluid when someone cranks it will run off the starter fluid.
So now I'm thinking there's something wrong with the ECU or the Jetronic injection module. I did jump the fuel pump relay again, and again it does turn on, so I used a multimeter I have to test the relay connections and there's no power shown when the key is turned and cranking. Same goes for the fuel injector relay. I tried jumping those with no success. Also, despite replacing the CPS, I get spark but no RPM's show on the gauge.
I found a person named Richard Andrade who seems to specialize in rebuilding these modules, and already gave me some advice likecheck the circuit from LH pin 1 to EZF spark pin 16cause I still don't see an RPM on the dash, which I have a link to a video of us trying to start the car. I'm going to make another trip to the car and check the connectors for the ECU and fuel injector module, but anyone have experience with Richard?
Also I found this disconnected yellow wire to one of the connections of the modules and connected it. Any reason why that was disconnected?
I found a person named Richard Andrade who seems to specialize in rebuilding these modules, and already gave me some advice likecheck the circuit from LH pin 1 to EZF spark pin 16cause I still don't see an RPM on the dash, which I have a link to a video of us trying to start the car. I'm going to make another trip to the car and check the connectors for the ECU and fuel injector module, but anyone have experience with Richard?
Also I found this disconnected yellow wire to one of the connections of the modules and connected it. Any reason why that was disconnected?
No worries about Rich, he is a stand up guy and a great 928er who has been around forever (Hi Rich).
Oh, disconnect that Octane Loop connector, it is to reduce timing etc for countries with crappy fuel.
Cheers,
Dave
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David Roberts
2010 Jaguar XKR Coupe - 510HP Stock - Liquid Silver Metallic
928 Owners Club Co-Founder
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Rich Andrade is top notch guy and extremely helpful. We've known him for years, traveled with him and his wife, hosted them as houseguests too. The Controller in my car plus the spare have been reworked by Rich, and the spare has been in a lot of cars to help with diagnosis. You are in great hands.
Oh, disconnect that Octane Loop connector, it is to reduce timing etc for countries with crappy fuel.
At least I know that isn't someones hack job. Thanks.
Originally Posted by dr bob
Rich Andrade is top notch guy and extremely helpful. We've known him for years, traveled with him and his wife, hosted them as houseguests too. The Controller in my car plus the spare have been reworked by Rich, and the spare has been in a lot of cars to help with diagnosis. You are in great hands.
I went back to the car and tested some wires to the module as Richard Andrade suggested. So I checked for continuity from EZF connector pin 16 to LH
connector pin 1, and that's fine. I also decided to check for grounds and power, and the grounds are fine as far as I can tell. The power doesn't seem to engage. For example pin 25 from the EZF wire harness goes to the ignition relay pint 87 just fine, but when I turn the key and crank, no power. But when both the EZF ignition and LH modules are plugged in and I turn the key to crank, I can feel the ignition module relay click, but not the LH fuel injection module. If I use my wire to bypass the the relay and manually turn on the power, I can hear the fuel injection relay click when I turn the key to crank, but of course the car still doesn't start. No fuel pump turns on, no start, and still no rpm's showing up on cluster.
So... is it the computer modules? Maybe my first assessment of the ignition switch being dirty was correct? I mean it does seem like the ignition relay engages and I do get spark cause I spray starter fluid and the engine will fire up and run off it. But the ignition relay socket doesn't get any new ground source or power source when the key is turned and cranking, but then I feel it click when attempting to start the car. But the fuel injection relay does certainly click when I bypass the ignition relay. I'm just... I have no idea what's going on here? I could send both modules to Rich and pray he finds a problem, but maybe this is the ignition switch? But if it were the ignition switch then why didn't the car start and run when I used my wire to bypass the ignition relay?
BTW, here's a video of me testing the ignition relay socket.
Ok I got back the EZF and LH from Richard Andrade and he found a problem with the EZF and fixed it, plus I got a rebuilt MAF from him as well. Still won't start. Though one thing I made a mistake was that I assumed the engine had spark cause it would huff and puff when I sprayed starter fluid, but I've disconnected the wires and found no spark. Plugged in a generic spark, placed it near a ground and no spark. So I've been after the fuel but didn't realize I had to address the spark. So I checked the EZF relay the XVI and found that it wouldn't engage. Tested it with a Multimeter to see if there's switched on 12v or ground, and nothing.
So what prevents the XVI EZF relay from turning on? Rich mentioned that I should check the Ignition Control Module but I doubt that's the problem.
06-24-2018, 10:16 PM
