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Hard starting after intake refresh

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Old 06-15-2018 | 12:08 PM
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Default Hard starting after intake refresh

I have an 88 S4 auto and just finished an intake refresh. I replaced the spark plug wires, distributor caps and rotors, fuel lines, injectors rebuilt, MAF rebuilt and replaced all vacuum hoses and fittings. When I try to start the car the engine turns over approx. 10 times and stumbles to start up. When it's running it runs better than it ever did. If I shut the car down and start it up immediately it starts up with no hesitation. If the car sits over night it's hard to start. When I shut down the car I can hear a gurgling noise from the fuel pump/filter area for a couple seconds. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Old 06-15-2018 | 12:09 PM
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Oh I also replaced the Crank position sensor and knock sensors.
Old 06-15-2018 | 12:58 PM
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No help but that gurgling sounds very weird. It's just that you have touched so many things so I guess I'd recheck everything even it meant taking it all apart again to find the problem. In the past 6 months, I have removed the intake 5 times to solve my idle problems.
Old 06-15-2018 | 01:06 PM
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Removed the intake 5 times...that’s crazy and very frustrating.
Old 06-15-2018 | 01:13 PM
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Yes, but now I can remove the intake in about an hour taking my time to bag and tag. Yes, very frustrating.
Old 06-15-2018 | 01:21 PM
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I can imagine your very proficient at removing the intake. That gurgling sound from my fuel pump almost sounds like air trapped in the pump.
Old 06-15-2018 | 01:40 PM
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That reminds me, I did have to remove the in-tank pump because the short hose had split on mine. Maybe that is something that could cause your problem. Also, there is a check valve on the outer pump that can cause it to lose pressure but I don't think that will cause the gurgling.
Old 06-15-2018 | 02:25 PM
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I just put in new spark plugs (the old ones looked good, thought I’d give it a try) and swapped the fuel pump relay for the reverser lights relay (same 53 relay). No difference but didn’t hear the gurgling noise. The car sat in a heated garage all winter with half a tank of gas, so I just put some fuel stabilizer in the tank. Weird, when the engine is cold hard to start after that fires up on a dime.
Old 06-16-2018 | 08:58 AM
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What is your fuel pressure at the rail when you are cranking it over and it wont’ start? Tested the fuel injector connectors with a nod light?
Old 06-16-2018 | 07:22 PM
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I’ll have to get a pressure gauge to check fuel pressure.
Old 06-16-2018 | 07:24 PM
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But it’s only hard to start when cold, after it starts and I let it idle for 30 seconds and shut it down it will start up again with no hesitation.
Old 06-16-2018 | 07:30 PM
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I’ve read a couple of posts about the check valve at the fuel pump output line and it sounds like that’s what’s going on.
Old 06-16-2018 | 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Stevenwr
I’ve read a couple of posts about the check valve at the fuel pump output line and it sounds like that’s what’s going on.
Could also be a failed fuel pressure regulator or a number of other things. Start with the basics though. Spark, fuel, injector pulse.
Old 06-17-2018 | 11:38 PM
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When I was putting the intake back together I had the wiring harness for the temp II sensor on the water bridge a bit too tight (pulling). I loosened the wiring harness and cleaned the contacts on the sensor and the car fired up cold with no hesitation.
Old 06-18-2018 | 03:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Stevenwr
I have an 88 S4 auto and just finished an intake refresh. I replaced the spark plug wires, distributor caps and rotors, fuel lines, injectors rebuilt, MAF rebuilt and replaced all vacuum hoses and fittings. When I try to start the car the engine turns over approx. 10 times and stumbles to start up. When it's running it runs better than it ever did. If I shut the car down and start it up immediately it starts up with no hesitation. If the car sits over night it's hard to start. When I shut down the car I can hear a gurgling noise from the fuel pump/filter area for a couple seconds. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
What condition is your engine wiring harness in? What voltage does your voltmeter drop to when cold cranking? Cold cranking draws more amps due to higher oil viscosity related resistance and at some point can create a problem if the wiring is in less than perfectt condition. If you have the original engine harness still in use chances are that the cables that feed power from the starter motor to the alternator and on to the hot post by the 14 pin connector are probably shot. Also check the condition of the earth strap where the braided section mates with the terminals under the insulation.

Whereas you quite reasonably are looking for something that links the problem to your inlet manifold refurb, do not discount other possibilities until your problem is resolved.


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