Testing ignition switch
#1
Testing ignition switch
Hi there, I'm new to the 928 scene and working on getting my 79 928 up and running. I have no idea the last time it ran or anything about the car. I've pulled the starter and tested it on the bench and it fires up fine. I've pulled all the fuses and relays to take a look and everything looks ok as far as I can tell. I swapped the horn relay and starter relay to see if that would help getting the car to crank. My next attempt is the ignition switch. I've pulled the dash pod apart to get access to the ignition switch. When I turn the key it feels very worn and when I move to the start/crank section the key just sits there. There's not any spring back action and absolutely nothing happens. No clicking anywhere of a relay or anything. Is there a way to do some tests while the ignition is in place while have access? Should I pull it out now to see what's up? Thanks for any help. This is like a big puzzle for sure.
#2
Administrator - "Tyson"
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
The ignition switch is a wear item. I recently pulled the pod in my 87 to fix the ODO gear and some other fiddly bits. Zero starting or running issues with this car, with just over 100k miles, I replaced the ignition switch anyway because now is a good time to do it.
So, long story short, with a car such as yours, best to swap in a new one just to be 100% sure.
Also with your car, the green wire which runs from the distributor across the front of the engine to the ignition box. If you have no history stating when it was last replaced, order a new one.
Back to the ignition switch, there are some generic / counterfeit units available on most random parts sites. These are junk. Be sure to only order one from a known 928 parts supplier like 928 Specialists, 928's R Us or 928 International. They all supply the genuine Porsche ignition switch (and green wire).
So, long story short, with a car such as yours, best to swap in a new one just to be 100% sure.
Also with your car, the green wire which runs from the distributor across the front of the engine to the ignition box. If you have no history stating when it was last replaced, order a new one.
Back to the ignition switch, there are some generic / counterfeit units available on most random parts sites. These are junk. Be sure to only order one from a known 928 parts supplier like 928 Specialists, 928's R Us or 928 International. They all supply the genuine Porsche ignition switch (and green wire).
#4
Administrator - "Tyson"
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Wow, love the color!!
A wonky ignition switch can do funny things, even when the car starts up fine. Local 86.5 the car would randomly shut off then start up again while going down the highway. It was the ignition switch.
A wonky ignition switch can do funny things, even when the car starts up fine. Local 86.5 the car would randomly shut off then start up again while going down the highway. It was the ignition switch.
#5
Team Owner
before you buy a switch I would make sure the original switch has both screws tight.
If the screws are tight and no spring back,
then a new switch should be fitted.
just to be clear the IG switch is screwed onto the rear of the key cylinder.
If the screws are tight and no spring back,
then a new switch should be fitted.
just to be clear the IG switch is screwed onto the rear of the key cylinder.
#6
So the switch part that the wires connect too. Not the whole thing including the key/barrel section? I noticed the key/barrel section is really pricey but a new ignition switch was $162 on 928 international. Any way to test it while still mounted to see if that's my issue?
Trending Topics
#8
Hopefully the offending article.
It's been fooled with or replaced before I think since the top screw was a new looking phillips head and the bottom screw was a slotted screw.
#9
Ok, so I fooled with the ignition switch with a screw driver and it feels way more positive feeling than it did when installed. So just to try it I plugged it back into the wiring harness and tried to crank the engine and wouldn't you know it, it made the starter crank! Does it look like the cylinder can be pushed in a little more to engage the ignition switch better?
Last edited by Tim McDonald; 06-06-2018 at 04:15 PM.
#10
Team Owner
from that picture it appears someone has removed the setting pin for the lock cylinder this will enable the cylinder to come free of the housing
'
'
#11
As far as I can tell, the ignition switch part is fine. It cranks every time when I use a screw driver. My key lock assembly is either worn down enough it doesn't engage probably or someone was fiddling with it and put it together wrong.
**Update**
I pulled the pin and removed the key lock assembly. There's what appears to be a cam type piece and that's what goes into the ignition switch like the blade of a screw driver. However, when I have the ignition switch taken apart and just feel the blade part that goes into the ignition switch at the back of the barrel cylinder, it doesn't turn in conjunction with the key. Is that normal? Or should it stop in 4 precise locations?
**Update**
I pulled the pin and removed the key lock assembly. There's what appears to be a cam type piece and that's what goes into the ignition switch like the blade of a screw driver. However, when I have the ignition switch taken apart and just feel the blade part that goes into the ignition switch at the back of the barrel cylinder, it doesn't turn in conjunction with the key. Is that normal? Or should it stop in 4 precise locations?
Last edited by Tim McDonald; 06-06-2018 at 07:13 PM.