merchauser

Luckily, I am not in NEED of an intake refresh, and will put that off for the future, and probably not until I start experiencing
symptoms.

but, looking towards that day, would like to hear opinions on powder coat v. painting cam covers and intake. was the factory
finish a paint, powder coat, or some other high tech finish of the day?

taking into account the issues of damaging parts, bead blasting media residue, improper techniques for powder coating, and/or having debris ingested,
I am inclined to hand strip or chemically strip and paint. in my mind, it looks like the safe way to go, but also wondering
about type of paint for longevity and durability.

anyone want to add comments about personal experiences and preferences? thanks

Eplebnista

Here is what I believe to be the definitive thread on painting: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/677043-intake-refinishing-alternative-to-powdercoat.html

cali4sun

You might want to read this for reference.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ressure-2.html


Charles
'89 928 S4 GP White/Black

Jfrahm

I am happy with aircraft stripper and high temp engine paint. Just trying to get it looking decent and deal with flaking.

jej3

Here are some pics of my freshly painted intake, waterbridge and cam covers. I used VHT Primer, Color and Clear. Probably not as durable as Powder Coat but I've got a second set of intakes and cam covers I might re-do....

The Forgotten On

IF you decide to blast. Do soda blasting or walnut shell blasting.

The baking soda is water soluble and walnut shells are easy to remove and soft compared to sand or black beauty.

DonaldBuswell

I will wade into this with experience, and experience. I'm a professional media blaster. I took my S4 intake, and Cam covers and a bunch of other things and plastic media blasted them (PMB). Refer to youtube Dr Blast (user name - not the video gamer lol) for assessments and visuals and especially prior to media blasting. Do NOT engage in the DIY mentality to use chemical stripper on these items. Chemicals goop up in corners, then, enthusiasts opt for the Harbor Freight DIY blaster kit, or, they go for a Soda Blaster kit because someone said "Soda is better". Let me assure you I am the Doctor and I challenge anyone to counter my claims based on experience. The key to any successful media blast is CFM. Many hobbyists have no clue what CFM is, they default to PSI of this or that unit. I use 175 CFM - 200 CFM in my blasting operations; a 50HP screw compressor and all associated equipment and experience doing this since 2002. Sadly, many of the editorials herein about this or that experience is all due to one's ignorance. Now this is not an insult of a bad thing - just reality. Only us 'car guys' think we can do anything on a car -- I think it's in our DNA as Americans. I think there's good photos of my S4 at drblast com Cheers all!

Michael Benno

The Forgotten On

Not really. It just isn't aesthetically pleasing to most. The intake on my 89 has shed all of its paint.

I think it does create some protection for it considering it does contain magnesium.

upstate bob

Powder coat is way overrated. Be careful with stripper on any alloy parts. Lacquer thinner is one of the best solvents and won't harm anything but plastic.
A previous poster mentioned VHT products: excellent stuff, especially their rattle can epoxy. I'm currently doing a valve job on a 58 year old Hercules engine. Fun.

hacker-pschorr

Why, because it looks great & lasts significantly longer than paint?

Constantine

Powder coat is heat sensitive and can degrade quicker than a good epoxy high heat coating.

Happened to my own valve cover refresh project.

hacker-pschorr

There's good & bad with everything, I don't think PC is "overrated". I take all the parts in a box, drop them off, pick up a few days later & install. Easy peasy.

If powercoating flaked off a valve cover from under hood engine heat, maybe time to find a new power coater...

upstate bob

The theory of powder coat superiority is that there are no bubbles trapped in the film after being cured. This lets less moisture get to the base metal.
If moisture/rust is no problem then paint is just as good. Epoxy also lacks the bubble track. Forget about fast dry paints because they are the worst offenders.

DonaldBuswell

I've heard my powdercoating facility say that those magnesium alloy's must stay in the oven for 2 weeks' worth of heating cycles before powder is applied ensuring any and all de gassing (or degausing) has occurred before powder is applied. This, and my fondness for how Epoxy primer locks down tightly, and my reluctance to use over the counter rattle cans such as ones you all have mentioned for the final coat of paint caused me to paint mine. I use Kimball-Midwest rattle can - more of an experiment of excellence; meaning undertake to do something with my best foot forward and with the best quality materials and craftsmanship. Remember back in the 70s as kids we would paint something like our KISS Lunch boxes when KISS became too Disco and the looming cloud of high-solids lurked in the air as we painted? Well, you can not buy those paints today in an over the counter environment thanks to the CARB people. But, there is a work-around, contact your Kimball-Midwest dealer and his paints are expensive, but, are very very good and when dry gives a powdercoat feel and look.