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GregBBRD

At this point in time, we never install a pump without pulling the strainer. ....especially if the old pump seized. It is extraordinarily rare to find a strainer that is still intact or not almost completely plugged.

We pulled two strainers, yesterday, one of which had 36,000 original mIles on an absolutely gorgeous, pampered 1986.5....and the other on a 1980 car that we are "lending a hand on" during a customer's restoration.

Neither vehicle had any part of the strainer remaining (actually one strainer had 1/2 of one rib still present.) I have no idea where the pieces went. We pulled both tanks and cleaned them....so much dirt and debris inside that I believe the new strainers would have plugged up, very quickly.

Your problem could easily be chunks of debris being "ground up" by the fuel pump....almost making the pump seize, but just slowing it down, instead.

John Speake

I don't think strainers were fitted to Euro 16v. Started with the S4 IIRC. My 86 S2 doesn't have one.

All the symptoms do suggest fuel supply problems.

soontobered84

My 84 Euro has one, and had one before I replaced it also.

fan928

Hi,
Thanks guys, Not sure why my video wont upload.
Anyway.... Further to John Speake's post above.
As far as I can work out looking at Rennlist posts / etc. my 928 S2 1984 Euro 16v has a fuel strainer / filter in the tank (i.e. no pump just a straight forward filter to catch the majority of any crap in the tank) supplemented by an external filter (by the side of / along with the external fuel pump) to catch any that gets through.

As per other posts from you guys (thanks) it does look like to fit a new strainer could turn out be a significant pain the the back side, especially if the strainer is reluctant to unscrew from the knurled collect (for lack of better words). I notice a post regarding a jubilee clip (as know in the UK) which could help separate the strainer from the tank body (great idea) but at this point in time frankly don't fancy starting something that on the face of it could change a fairy simple job into potentially having to dismantle the tank etc. Given I think this points now to a fuel problem...
I think over the weekend I will start by checking out the condition of the new pump & filter whilst by taking off the connection to the strainer to see what if any effect I get. I am working on (rightly or wrongly) the assumption that if I undo the connection / flow from the tanks strainer I should (if the strainer is in good shape) get a reasonable flow of fuel given gravity. At least this way I can gauge if there is a reasonable flow of fuel for the pump to push round the rest of the system (i.e injectors). If little fuel flow then focus on the strainer. If it seems OK (whilst not dismissing this possibility) I can look further upstream for the problem. If I am wrong or there are other suggestions guys please let me know, thanks

SeanR

Callum_GT

Wow someone local to me hope you find the cause

fan928

. I may have found the problem but not 100% sure.

The other day I disconnected the fuel line from the tank to external filter. The tank was half full and I got a virtual fountain of fuel so I am thinking that the strainer is fine given the amount of fuel flow given gravity. Checked all fuses / relays again, all OK, New external filter ordered (just to eliminate that) plus a full set of all relays to try and get to the bottom of this issue.

Today I took the air box off etc. to check through the vacuum lines again. I discovered that a vacuum line between the Diverter value (I think that what it is on my car [1984 S2 Euro} photo attached) and a ‘Y’ connector linking another vacuum line to the top of the throttle housing and also linking forward to the Pressure damper at the front of the engine had become detached. I must have missed it when I checked before as it was hidden behind the intake tubes. Anyway.....
Retrieved the whole line forward to the Pressure damper and re-inserted the loose vacuum line. When I was putting it back and attaching the ‘Y’ rubber to the top of throttle I noticed that rubber ‘Y’ had a very small split (which when bent opened further) As a temporary fix I applied a small drop of ‘Gorilla Glue’ to the split to seal it up and re-assembled everything to see if things improved. Started fine, drove fine (however, it has driven fine for months before the problem suddenly arose again) but not 100% convinced this will finally resolve the issue. A new 'Y' connector is being sourced as that obviously needs to be replaced.

Any thoughts appreciated.

fan928

Photo's

fan928

The mystery continues! any thoughts?
Continued as per above: Replacing the split rubber 'Y' to the throttle body made no difference (I think if it was split any vaccum leak would just make it run a bit risher

So to date I have:

• Have replace the main relays EZK, LH and Fuel pump with the new ones
• Checked all fuses are clean and making contact
• Checked all grounds (as per work shop manual, many of them)
• Checked / cleaned the two red wires plus their fuses from the battery + terminal (for the Ignition and fuel modules)
• Battery ground strap clean
• Connected / replaced a split Y vacuum line to the throttle body and check all others were secure
• Checked the vacuum and they all hold pressure and no fuel in the lines so I guess the regulator and dampers are in good shape
• Took fuel pipe off the tank / strainer and there was plenty of fuel flowing freely
• Replaced fuel filter
• Replaced the coils.
• Checked the Temp 2 sensors to ground (both prongs) before starting the car and in ambient temperature it was 2.75 ohms so comparing with the chart below looked OK
• 0 C / 32 F: 4.4 to 6.0k Ohm
  
  15 - 30 C / 59 - 86 F: 1.4 to 3.6k Ohm (before car started)
  
  40 C / 104 F: 0.9 to 1.3k Ohm
  
  60 C / 140 F: 480 to 720 Ohm
  
  80 C / 176 F: 250 to 390 Ohm (after today’s breakdown when back home)
• Today, Swapped out know to be good loan MAF, EZK and LH modules in sequence and still dies

Left the car to cool down. Went back and started fine as normal. It ticks over at about 650 revs. I let it warm up for a few minutes until the temp gauge hits the first mark (i.e. about 1/3) without touching the throttle. Once at 1/3 temp VERY GENTLY and SLOWLY press the accelerator (as though I have an egg between my foot and the throttle). Revs move up around 750 / 800 but starts to hesitate and if you don’t push the throttle down any further it will die. If I start her again it starts straight away and if the throttle is left alone will sit happily tick away at idle (600 / 650) but touch the throttle and it starts to hesitate again. At that point I can push the throttle further and the revs will happily shoot up to 3,000 or 4,000 and stay there as long as the throttle is left there but if I take my foot off the throttle the revs will drop until gets to around 1,200 and when it falls below that it starts to hesitate. I notice that as long as the revs are 1,200 or above it is fine and I guess would sit there all day. It seems that there is something it doesn’t like between 650 and 1,200 and just gets lumpy and if you don’t give the throttle a push it dies. I also notice that it doesn’t idle that smoothly now, not roughly but just a little off.

So it seems when warm (not hot), somewhere between below 1,200 it is not happy, above that OK. Also, if 2,000 or above can drive it home (bit interesting at roundabouts)
Any help appreciated as this is driving me nuts!

Thank you

928 S2 1984 310 BHP Euro 4 speed Auto that's not happy :-(

fan928

Hey Guys,
Well I might have found the problem, the Crankshaft pulse sensor (CPS)

It was a bit of a pain to get out even though I had been soaking in in penetrating fluid over the last couple of days. Soaking in penetrating fluid, patience and a leaver are the main requirements I found to getting it out. After a lot of careful wiggling side to side and more fluid it started to move slightly. Kept on for a hour or so and it gradually started to move quite freely. It is very difficult get hold of it but moving some fuel and water lines to the side I managed to get some long nose pliers on it. Now I could move side to side but couldn’t get in a position to put directly up at the same time. After trying different things made a loop of 3 cable ties and put them through the mouth of the pliers and using a socket set extension as a leaver against the top of the firewall I could twist with the pliers and now pull upwards and very slowly it came out !!!

Driven it and it didn't die as normal. Seems much better however being an intermittent problem time will tell if this is the end of the saga.
Cheers

928 S2 1984 310 BHP Euro 4 speed Auto a bit happier :-)

fan928

I keep trying to post pictures to go with the replies but they down load, does anyone know why

fan928

Hi Don, (cant seem to get the Rennlist to post my reply so tried the route)

Basically replacing the CPS solved the problem immediately. Having tried for example, swapping out all modules with know good ones, replacing coils etc. etc. as soon as I fitted a new CPS everything was just fine.
It was a dramatic change and the car ran as sweet as a nut! My CPS I believe was over thirty years old (I notice you have recently replace yours so may not be a direct comparison). However, changing the CPS
transformed the car and I have never had any problems since.

Not sure what to suggest other than the steps I took to try and track down the problem (and it took me a while). There are so many possibilities I am afraid and it is difficult focus on any specific area that would resolve the issue. All I can suggest is that from my perspective it was an always an electrical problem which luckily (but frustratingly difficult to establish) it turnout to be. The CPS worked fine if just ticking over for a short period but failed if I drove the car for approx. 2 miles at which point the CPS just gave up.

Good luck with figuring out the problem.because at the end of the day it is a matter systematically working through the options. Hope this and my previous post provide some food for thought. Cheers and good luck again. .