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I don't own an Oetiker crimp tool or similar (yet) but I am needing to get the clamp around the tensioner boot secured tonight. I am hoping I can find a tool at my local auto parts store but if I can't has anyone used an alternative method to crimp these style clamps? Also how far down do you adjust this clamp before crimping? Currently its at the max diameter.
you can use side cutters to set the clamp .
I would bump the notches one more tighter before setting the clamp.
I like to position the clamp crimp so its at about 11 O clock while looking at it .
And you were standing at the left fender ,
now its at 6 O clock
Where it may allow oil to dribble out every once in a while.
9 o-clock is right out too. Then it interferes with the center belt cover.
And, on that note, the c-clip that holds the cup (for the piston) to the inner diameter of the boot needs to have the open part of the c-clip facing up (11:30-ish to 12:30-ish) for the same reason.
Thou shall count to 12 and the count shall be 12. Thou shall not counst to 11 lest it be immediately followed by 12. Thou shall not count to 13. And 14 is right out...
Where it may allow oil to dribble out every once in a while.
9 o-clock is right out too. Then it interferes with the center belt cover.
And, on that note, the c-clip that holds the cup (for the piston) to the inner diameter of the boot needs to have the open part of the c-clip facing up (11:30-ish to 12:30-ish) for the same reason.
Thou shall count to 12 and the count shall be 12. Thou shall not counst to 11 lest it be immediately followed by 12. Thou shall not count to 13. And 14 is right out...
Originally Posted by worf928
No one mentioned that Nate has the cup backwards?
Nate, the cup is backwards...
Hmmm.. Thanks Dave. So my tensioner has the parts circled in red below and I've re-installed them in that orientation. When I took this apart there was no c-clip (and none shown in PET). The replacement boot from Roger is stretched over the groove in the cup (60). So what am I missing here? Should the boot be in the piston groove (59) instead? The old boot was in around the cup (60).
Go pick up a pair of 'end nippers' at any hdw. store/Amazon..... generally ~ $10: if not too aggressive, they do a credible job on crimping.
Nice suggestion. Thanks.
Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
you can use side cutters to set the clamp .
I would bump the notches one more tighter before setting the clamp.
I like to position the clamp crimp so its at about 11 O clock while looking at it .
And you were standing at the left fender ,
now its at 6 O clock
Originally Posted by worf928
Where it may allow oil to dribble out every once in a while.
9 o-clock is right out too. Then it interferes with the center belt cover.
I picked these up on ebay. after changing cv boots and using clamps supplied (they allowed the boots to slip loose) and stainless straps ( also failed) I bought the pliers and clamps for the boots.
^^ Dave, here is the old boot. No c-clip. I was very careful when I removed the old cup and no c-clip flung out. The inner opening in the old boot has a lip that fits in the groove of the flange on the cup. This is similar to how the new Roger boot fits, however the inner boot lip is not as wide as the OEM boot so more of the groove is exposed as you can see. Is it possible that the '84 tensioner assembly is different and that's why there is no c-clip? Or could the previous rebuilder have forgotten it?
Last edited by GT6ixer; 04-19-2018 at 01:15 PM.
Reason: fat finger typing errors
Nate I think your tensioner boot does not have the inner C clip wire,
this part is on the S4 tensioner boot.
It looks like you have the boot correctly positioned in your first picture
If you did have a inner wire then you would fit it so it would look like a horseshoe with the ends pointing up when the boot was installed.
As Dave points out
Reasons for the outer clamp fitment
6 O clock the clamp may allow oil to leak.
9 O clock the crimp will hit the timing cover.
12 O clock the crimp will hit the timing cover.
any position on the aft side of the tensioner the crimp may hit the engine,
and otherwise not be able to be recrimped without tensioner removal or clamp loosening.
Best position 11 O clock it clears the timing cover and can be recrimped if necessary.
I suggest to use Hondabond on the gasket this should prevent leaks,
use STP to fill the tensioner.
I smear DC111 on the boot after its on the engine to prolong its life
Nate I think your tensioner boot does not have the inner C clip wire,
this part is on the S4 tensioner boot.
I will defer to Stan. My ratio of 32v to 16v belt jobs is like 25:1. And my ratio of Euro 16v twin-dizzy to US 16v is 'round 3:1
There are two part numbers shown for the boot for 16v. One is the same as for 32v. The other not.
Originally Posted by GT6ixer
^^ Dave, here is the old boot. No c-clip. I was very careful when I removed the old cup...
Sure looks like that boot can't 'use' a c-clip.
I'm puzzled. I don't remember ever not seeing the c-clip on the interior of the boot except... This is what I found 'going in' the one time I remember not finding the c-clip:
On a 32v, if the tensioner bolt is not wound-in at all and the c-clip is missing, that cup can pop right out of the boot as a result of setting the push rod into cup.
Amazingly enough, the C-clip is listed...just not pictured....look at the bottom part numbers in PET. Unpictured pieces are listed in parenthethes (sp?). I'm not near a PET diagram, bit I believe the number is N 023 011, (which is the exact same part number as a piston pin circlip for a 928.)
As Dave points out
Reasons for the outer clamp fitment
6 O clock the clamp may allow oil to leak.
9 O clock the crimp will hit the timing cover.
12 O clock the crimp will hit the timing cover.
any position on the aft side of the tensioner the crimp may hit the engine,
and otherwise not be able to be recrimped without tensioner removal or clamp loosening.
Best position 11 O clock it clears the timing cover and can be recrimped if necessary.
I suggest to use Hondabond on the gasket this should prevent leaks,
use STP to fill the tensioner.
I smear DC111 on the boot after its on the engine to prolong its life
Thanks and good advice with the DC111. The old boot I took off (as you can see) was as dry as a cracker.
Nate I think your tensioner boot does not have the inner C clip wire,
this part is on the S4 tensioner boot.
It looks like you have the boot correctly positioned in your first picture
If you did have a inner wire then you would fit it so it would look like a horseshoe with the ends pointing up when the boot was installed.
Originally Posted by worf928
Sure looks like that boot can't 'use' a c-clip.
I'm puzzled. I don't remember ever not seeing the c-clip on the interior of the boot except... This is what I found 'going in' the one time I remember not finding the c-clip:
Originally Posted by GregBBRD
Amazingly enough, the C-clip is listed...just not pictured....look at the bottom part numbers in PET. Unpictured pieces are listed in parenthethes (sp?). I'm not near a PET diagram, bit I believe the number is N 023 011, (which is the exact same part number as a piston pin circlip for a 928.)
Thanks guys for the replies. I really appreciate three of the titans helping me understand this arrangement I have on the '84. After some more research I've convinced myself (maybe erroneously) that a c-clip is not part of my tensioner's design. Greg, below are the three pages from the PET for the tesnsioner and I highlighted the non-depicted parts. None are clips. The only c-clip listed, (48), is the snap ring for the valve on the base for the bi-metal stack.
Furthermore the picture below from the WSM shows an early 16V tensioner with the c-clip (7). The next picture depicts the "1983 and on" configuration and shows a tensioner with no c-clip. This is exactly like mine except for the boot/screw-clamp/piston arrangement. Mine instead has the cup/spring/piston/piston-sleeve/washer/boot/crimp-clamp assembly I circled in the post #6 above.
The rubber band boot from Roger took quite a bit of force and stretching to get over the cup flange and into its groove. I don't think there is any risk of this coming loose.... hopefully
04-17-2018, 07:52 PM
Pinch Clamp Tool Alternative? Any Suggestions?
