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So sorry Rennlisters — somehow the text I'd originally written to start the thread was not submitted with photo. This is what I meant to post:
Feeling stupid as I'm sure I've done this easily in the past, and got as good 'clunk' from the crank moving to and fro.
There are lots of places to pry the flywheel back towards rear of car, but where would you put pry bar to move it forwards? I can't find anywhere where the pry bar has good solid support, and where the tip is in a good position on the flywheel.
I release flex plate regularly but it's a few years since I last took a measurement. Wanted to do so this time as the flex plate moved back 2-3mm on shaft when I released the clamp bolt.
I would suggest to not pry on the front pulley no need to damage it or crack the belt cover.
NOTE since your going to be measuring from the flywheel surface ,
I like to use the edge of the flywheel,
its easy to fit a fat screwdriver on either side of the flywheel,
and you can hear the clunk .
make sure the flex clamp bolt is out and the tension has been released.
Fred I could try at crank pulley, but means much wriggling back and forth to take measurements!
We used a piece of wood wedged against the sump as I remember but the car was on a lift at the time and there were two of us on that occasion! It should take little effort to shuttle the crank assembly over as there is not much to resist movement- it is probably more difficult to open a jar of pickled onions for those dumb enough not to break the vacuum seal!
So sorry Rennlisters — somehow the text I'd originally written to start the thread was not submitted with photo. This is what I meant to post:
Feeling stupid as I'm sure I've done this easily in the past, and got as good 'clunk' from the crank moving to and fro.
I release flex plate regularly but it's a few years since I last took a measurement. Wanted to do so this time as the flex plate moved back 2-3mm on shaft when I released the clamp bolt.
Adrian,
I am sat here on my nice terraced patio about 200m from the shores of the Gulf of Oman in my very nice villa, drinking my second cup of coffee, reading my mail, the Brit newspapers on line and this fine organ in a nice sunny 27C environment and then I come across the above- WTF! You are a Brit- you should know better- mind you if you are from Warwickshire then maybe that explains a thing or two!
I trust you understand that the first anyone knows that TBF has happened is "after the fact". Checking your clamp, measuring end float only tells you it has [or has not] happened- it does not tell you if it is about to happen and there are no reliable pre-cursors. Of course you may be lucky and nothing will happen - I take it you play russian Roulette with your pals on a Friday night? OK- friendly humour half hour over.
If you feel stupid because you cannot remember how you pryed the flywheel last time you did it, if you TBF your motor you will feel a bigger **nt than President Chump did in his Stormy relationship!
What mileage has your example covered? Maybe the miserable British weather rusts the splines so badly it help the clamp grip but given yours is "on the move" I see big red flashing lights in my defunct engineer's cranium. If you have read my current thread on TBF, you will note that Sean has a clamp on the move and he religiously releases his "slipping clamp" once a year and so far he has mitigated TBF by doing so- presumably he is comfortable with this approach. My take is that if the clamp is slipping [as so many do] then it is a pre-cursor of sorts. However, come the day when it slips "fully", and there is no predictor for when or if this will happen, that is the day when one owns a 250Kg garden ornament that used to be a 928 motor.
If you want a quick and easy to install approach contact Richard Armstrong at Ritech in the UK and get one of his auxiliary clamps- it will set you back around 200 sterling but it gives you the flexibility to remove the stock clamp bolt that you so like doing! Roger of course can also send you one or the PKlamp assuming it is still available. The ultimate solution as I am concerned is to get Constantine's clamp at around US$300 plus plus but then I think you have to remove the transaxle or at least create some space to install it but Constantine at Black Sea R&D can advise you on such.
Links- http://www.ritech-systems.com/928_flexplate_clamp.html
Alternatively if you are a cheap SOB like myself, you can try the Loctite approach at an all in cost of $6 - if so interested just send me a PM for instructions but you may not like that as you cannot dick around with the clamp bolt any more [well you can but I would not advise such].
Please excuse my dry humour- it is a defective gene found in all true Yorkshiremen and [occasionally] a few other assorted fellow Brits like Roger who I feel deserve the title "Honorary Yorkshireman"- the rest are just miserable gits!
I don't know why I was making such heavy weather of this yesterday. Went in garage this morning, and with long pry bar found good spot with bar pointing straight up last edge of flywheel to pry forwards against bell housing, and rewarded with satisfying clunk going to and fro. The end play was 0.13mm using a micrometer (not as good as dial gauge I know, but quick and easy to take measurement). I repeated couple of time to make sure. It's the same end play figure I measured 4 years and a mere 5,000 miles ago (must drive it more).
Also Fred you read my mind, as when I saw the movement on the splines yesterday I resolved to get one of Richard's clamps (in fact I was privileged for him to show me the design drawings when it was at prototype stage). I think he announced he had sold all original production recently, so I'll see what situation is now.
04-06-2018, 05:53 PM
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