When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
When I start the motor by turning the key to the far right position, some of my electronics such as windows, headlights sunroof, etc don't work until I slightly turn the key left after motor is running. Once I do that all is fine. Is the fix for this just simply a new ignition switch or is something more sinister going on?
sounds like the switch to me - not returning to the run position properly. I have heard there are some cheap dodgy copies out there. The proper ones have a 911 part no IIRC.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
Just get a new switch from one of out usual suppliers and you won't have to worry about it ever again.
Other symptoms of failure are the bulb check function staying active after starting the car, jiggling the key to start the car, electronics cutting in and out etc.
For ~$100 it pays in dividends to have one less possible source of electrical failure on our aging fleet.
Yep, sounds like electrical part of switch. Not expensive, but you need to pull the pod to replace it. Not difficult, but a PITA. Get a genuine part so you only need to do this once.
Good luck,
Dave
The ignition switch has 2 contacts on it marked "X". On your '82, one of those goes directly to the light switch, the other routes to the "X" bus in the CE panel that feeds some other high-current users. Current flows through the X contacts when the key is in the engine run position (2), off when in engine start position (3). This configuration drops the high-current loads when the engine is not running, and when the starter is engaged, so that maximum current is available for the starter and ignition. The two contacts on the switch are paralleled internally to the switch, so the symptom you see of lights and other stuff not working until you jiggle the key says that the action at the switch itself is the likely cause.
The locks tend to get sticky from dirt and other contamination if they aren't kept clean. To service the switch the electrical connector will be removed from the electrical portion of the switch. Two screws hold the electrical portion of the switch to the lock. Remove those and remove the switch. While it's out, cycle the key and lock through it's full travel, making sure that it isn't sticky or hanging up in any position. The "return spring" that pushes the switch back to "run" from "start" is in the electrical portion of the switch, so the key in the lock cylinder should rotate quite freely with the switch removed. If the lock isn't smooth, start with a little solvent flush and see if that helps. No Brake Cleaner, as the low-boiling fractions will dissolve plastic. Others will share their expertise on what they like for lubrication.
I am having the problem with the key not bouncing back from Start position. Another problem is when turning the ignition switch off, remove the key, the engine continues to run. New switch is on the way. Anyone know the part # (if one is available), for the brown plastic part that connects to the ignition switch, toward firewall not steering wheel?
With the electrical part of the switch removed from the back of the lock and unplugged from the harness, (two screws and angle screwdriver...), use a screwdriver to actuate the electrical portion of the switch. Clean as I shared above if the switch hangs up at all. Once the electrical part is working freely, verify that the lock cylinder is also moving freely with the key in it. Lift the ground strap at the battery while you do this of course.
If you do need to replace, shop carefully. There are imitation switches that show up from bottom-feeding vendors, and the quality isn't the same as a real Porsche switch. Our favorite parts vendors have sourced the real deal switches. In my opinion it's worth the extra cost to get one that isn't going to strand you or worse.
Thank you Dr Bob, I have a new ignition starter switch (964-613-012-00) on order from 928 International. Hope to pull, clean/inspect current switch tomorrow evening. I am not having any luck in finding a part # for the brown plastic casing and wiring that plug into the ignition starter switch, appears the top of the casing is cracked. when I have the switch out will photograph the mystery (to me) part. I did see the part in another thread on here, someone had hardwired it onto a board "for racing use only" - found it: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...s-to-what.html
Last edited by ScottMRandolph; Feb 5, 2019 at 10:43 PM.
Reason: found link and pic
Talos Takes Your 991 Porsche 911 GT3 to the Next Level for a Cool $1.13 Million
Slideshow: Talos Vehicles has transformed the Porsche 911 GT3 RS into a carbon-bodied, race-inspired machine that costs well over $1 million before the donor car is even included.
9 Vehicles Porsche Helped Engineer that Aren't Porsches
Slideshow: Long before engineering consulting became trendy, Porsche was quietly helping other automakers build everything from supercars to economy hatchbacks.
9 Features and Characteristics That Only Porsche People Understand
Slideshow: Some brands build cars. Porsche builds traditions, obsessions, and a few habits that stopped making sense decades ago but somehow became part of the charm.
This Builder Is Turning Heads With Its Slantnose 911 Creation
Slideshow: A small Polish tuner has reimagined the Porsche 911 Slantnose for the modern era, blending 1980s nostalgia with widebody tuning culture and serious performance upgrades.
Porsche 911 GT3 Artisan Edition Pays Homage to Japanese Culture
Slideshow: Porsche has created a Japan-only 911 GT3 Artisan Edition that blends track-ready hardware with design cues inspired by traditional Japanese craftsmanship.
Porsche Reveals Coupe Variant of the Electric Cayenne With a Fresh Look
Slideshow: Porsche's latest electric Cayenne Coupe blends dramatic styling with supercar acceleration, turning the brand's midsize SUV into a 1,139-horsepower flagship.
82 Ignition Switch Question
