anti seize & suspension
#1
anti seize & suspension
...
Last edited by Bigfoot928; 05-23-2020 at 07:32 PM.
#3
...
Last edited by Bigfoot928; 05-23-2020 at 07:32 PM.
#4
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
The upper links are steel bolt through steel bushing. The bolts pass through steel washers, the aluminum crossmember, another washer and a steel nut. With most of the contact steel to steel, the coppper will be the predominant anti-seize. Where the steel bushing and the washers contact the crossmember, the tin/aluminum stuff will be fine.
The nuke guys and the guys who are working on some of the high-tension high-temperature turbine housings use a non-metallic nuclear grade stuff you can buy on Amazon. It's sufficient for anything on the car.
Loctite 51272 Silver can with red lettering. Great stuff.
For the stuff you have that's stiff, add a tiny bit of motor oil to adjust back to the consistency you like. The goal when using the metallic products is to leave a barrier layer of the metal, with no real concern about how gooey it is in a year.
The nuke guys and the guys who are working on some of the high-tension high-temperature turbine housings use a non-metallic nuclear grade stuff you can buy on Amazon. It's sufficient for anything on the car.
Loctite 51272 Silver can with red lettering. Great stuff.
For the stuff you have that's stiff, add a tiny bit of motor oil to adjust back to the consistency you like. The goal when using the metallic products is to leave a barrier layer of the metal, with no real concern about how gooey it is in a year.