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Old 12-22-2020, 04:19 PM
  #31  
hernanca

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Originally Posted by Brett Jenkins
The problem I have with mounting it horizontally is that I don't know what mechanism would convert horizontal to vertical and would need some suggestions as to how to accomplish that.
This is what comes to mind. Don't know what it's called - a cam?



Edit: They call it a "bell-crank" in the following diagram:


Last edited by hernanca; 12-22-2020 at 04:38 PM.
Old 12-22-2020, 04:51 PM
  #32  
Brett Jenkins
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Something like this might work. I just need to figure out the math for where to mount the actuator and base of the front bracket, and the necessary length of part "A" in this picture. Part "B" would just be the rod of the actuator.



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Old 12-22-2020, 06:29 PM
  #33  
Cortina
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I'm going for a different solution to the same type of problem : I'm on a weight loss programe for a rally car - so losing that heavy motor for the lights .... is a must do. My solution (at this stage) is to have a mechanical system , and to "lock" the lights either up or down - mechanically (probably with a bolt !!). The original swivel mechanism works reasonably well , and compared to the motor is light ... so I may end up using that. There is some scope for weight reduction further - by simpliflying the actual headlight unit itself (I have bought two plastic cased motorcycle lights to try and use those .... too soon to say , but I think it's a workable solution).
Old 12-22-2020, 06:31 PM
  #34  
Brett Jenkins
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Originally Posted by Brett Jenkins
Something like this might work. I just need to figure out the math for where to mount the actuator and base of the front bracket, and the necessary length of part "A" in this picture. Part "B" would just be the rod of the actuator.



Actually, I'm going to try just a linear actuator mounted where part "B" is. it pivots on both ends, so I can get one that has a 6"-8" retracted length and 4" stroke. If I mount it in the right location to the bottom of the headlight bucket and to the underside of the lid, it should work. I will add a decent spring on each side of the lid to pull down when extended and hopefully that will keep it motionless.
Old 12-23-2020, 01:14 AM
  #35  
soontobered84
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Brett,

How about this? Spring loaded with the default as headlights are up. The springs hold the headlights up so they don't bounce. The motor is actually used to retract them.

Another thought: Don't the older style Euros use a driving light in the bumper? Maybe that could assist in your night time vision issue.

Old 12-23-2020, 10:21 AM
  #36  
Brett Jenkins
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Originally Posted by soontobered84
Brett,

How about this? Spring loaded with the default as headlights are up. The springs hold the headlights up so they don't bounce. The motor is actually used to retract them.

Another thought: Don't the older style Euros use a driving light in the bumper? Maybe that could assist in your night time vision issue.
That's a good idea!
I'll try both ways to see what works best.
Old 12-23-2020, 10:49 AM
  #37  
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Brett have you looked at solutions using the older Toyota Supra or Vette?
I would think they'd both be plentiful
Old 12-23-2020, 02:07 PM
  #38  
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Four-bar linkage so it comes up and forward?
Old 12-23-2020, 02:25 PM
  #39  
Brett Jenkins
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Originally Posted by hans14914
Four-bar linkage so it comes up and forward?
I'll look into it if my simple linear actuator with 2 pivoting mounts don't work.



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