bogdann

I used a jack under the hub to just raise the assembly slightly to ease the tension through the weight of the assembly. Mine came out relatively easy but we get little corrosion due to the dry heat here so this may not be your problem.

paalw

****ty suspension pin - paalw 0 - 1 !!

Finally. after hours of hitting, soaking, thinking this will never work, hitting my hand twice with a sledge hammer. Its Out!! It was just a matter of soaking and hitting it hard enough many times enough. It finally gave after and started to move, though incredibly slowly and stubbornly. It wasn't a matter of one hit then the rest was cakewalk.. I think some may have cut it far before, but I had not cutting equipment so I just kept trying...

I might need a new pin and some new tools though...

Bertrand Daoust

Mrmerlin

Great get a used pin and nuts from 928 INTL half price sale

dr bob

There are a few thoughts/lessons buried in here somewhere..

-- Corrosion between the shock bushing and the pin seems like the most common problem. Of course this is the section of the pin least likely to respond well to heat, and it takes a lot of PBBlaster or Kroil applied regularly to affect much change in the corrosion. Moral: Start with the PBBlaster a while before you project start date. Moral2: Coat the pins and the insides of the bushings with a liberal dose of anti-seize when assembling.

-- You can "test" the freedom of the pin in advance by loosening the forward nut, then turning the pin in the suspension with a wrench at the rear nut. If it turnw, you'll be able to get it out relatively easily. If it binds up and won't turn in there, you can add the PBBlaster or Kroil to the offending section.

-- Don't Pound On The End Of The Pin if it's stuck. Put a nut or two on the threads so the end of the pin is protected. Else the end of the pin will mushroom. Makes it even harder to get out, and unusable when you do finally get it out.

-- Consider the value of your time. You can use an abrasive cut-off wheel in an angle grinder (<$20 at Harbor Freight, Northern Tool, etc) to cut the shock tube off the eye, then cut the pin and the ends of the shock bushing in a matter of minutes. If the pin really is corroded in the bushing, you'll want to replace with Mark's pristine-cleaned used pins or even new ones anyway. Save yourself the aggravation, frustration, and the ears of the neighbors. Seriously.

The pins in mine are still a pretty yellow CAD from original. Living in a desert climate helps.

UKKid35

It is not the shock bushing that binds, it is the very close fitting conical washers that are either side of the hub which butt up to rubber bushes.

That is why it is so difficult to make any progress by hitting the end of the pin - the seized washers simply bounce off the rubber bush.

The reason for the corrosion is the big hole in the hub directly under the centre of the pin where the shock sits, between the two close fitting washers. The purpose of the hole is to let salt water in to corrode the pin making it virtually impossible to remove. Coating the pin with a liberal quantity of grease made it a trivial matter to remove it the next time several years later.

In my experience (which is limited to only two pins) the only way to remove the pin non-destructively is by rotating the pin, as GlenL says. If you apply pressure at the same time the pin will start to move length-ways, but not very quickly.

It took me two hours to turn/push the drivers side pin out which I considered a result because it had previously taken me six hours to remove the passenger side pin.

In retrospect you might wonder whether the cost of two new pins is worth more than eight hours of hard labour. In my case it definitely was at the time - even now I would probably consider a day's work on my P&J worth $250 to me.

paalw

One down, one to go.

For me it was the hub carrier in the middle that was corroded(and maybe the conical washers too?). Everything else was fine.

I noticed the Bilstein is shorter that the original red Boge. On the photo the top is alligned evenly. There is around 10mm difference in length.

Well, on to the passenger side....puhhh..

paalw

I thought the drivers side was tough. I am glad I did that first...If not I wouldn't have had the courage to begin from scratch again on the other side... The passenger side was a total PITA. Stuck inside the shock bushing among other things.. After going through 11 metal blades on my sawzall I can finally say it is out.

BTW, changed the gearbox oil while the PS shock was out. No pump needed