And the chance that he'll have the same, or compatible, piston tolerances is very small. These bores and pistons really don't wear much. Best to get another block with pistons that already fit rather than trying to make the current pistons work in a different block and then buying additional pistons where it can't be resolved. Then again, it depends on the PO's budget, risk tolerance and interests.

Why'd the engine come out in the first place?

 

Reason for engine removal was that I started having issue after issue with motor. First my idle valve went out, then I started having a leak of oil and steering fluid under car but with the wind from radiator fan blowing upwards it got my engine bay beyond dirty. And a few drops made it under car and so it’s also a mess on the under side.

Other issues were car was starting to stall on me once it got hot. It would struggle very bad to get home. I already had replaced the MAF and crank sensor and issue continued. It got really bad that I couldn’t drive it at all.

So when I took apart my harnesses for both engine and injector from the control panel, both had tears and exposed wiring! A few shorted ones but the MAF wiring connector had three wires exposed and so I’m assuming they were touching. Needing to get those replaced too.




RV

 

Just for kicks, can you post a picture of the thrust bearing from the middle of the crankshaft, both halves, both sides?

 

I will when I get home later. Is there hope for my to save it?

RV

 

Not without all the machining work that has already been discussed. But your stalling when warm symptom is a classic thrust bearing failure (TBF) scenario, in which case (if you DID have TBF) your block was a coffee table even before the cleaning. Did you measure the crankshaft endplay before you disassembled the motor? What did the oil look like when drained out? Or the insides of the oil pan?

 

Thanks for the quick response Rob! Actually I’ve been on top of that issue since the first time it happened to me like 4 years ago. I put it up on jackstands and relieve pressure on it every 6 months.

The first time it happened I did check oil and sure as hell. Metal flakes in oil. So this isn’t an issue. But I’ll send pictures anyways.


RV

 

Ricardo what was the crank end play, if you got the car 4 years ago and relieved the flex plate tension and found metal in the oil,
then you might have been running an engine that was on the way out anyway. All of the bearings and lifters are filled with the same oil.

That said make sure you flush the oil cooler before you connect it to your new engine,
if your original engine had metal flakes in the oil then it is now a coffee table as Rob suggested

 

It sounds to me like, except for the cost of the purple cleaner, you may have easily dodged a bullet. With the driveshaft loading and metal in the oil, I suspect you were already doomed. Spending on reassembly not a good idea.

Get with Mark at 928 International about another complete engine. His half-off sale on used stuff just started, so it's possible your new engine is there now, ready to ship if you act immediately. Clean/flush the oil cooler and lines as Stan recommends so the old metal doesn't clog up your new engine.

Does the dark gray of the coffee-table block get along OK with the rest of the decor? Casters underneath and the right glass on top will offer a good second life to the damaged block.

Post pics of the crank thrust surfaces, the block thrust bearing web, and the bearing itself. This failure eventually leads to cracked web and bearing saddles, a spun main bearing, with damage to the thrust-bearing faces on the crank itself.

 

have the block and heads powder coated pink and donate the coffee table to your local Porsche dealer in tribute to cancer victims.
They could put it in their lobby.

 

I may or may not have been at 928Intl this morning, Tom has several complete S4 motors for $1750. Operators are standing by.

 

Send me your block and cradle. I'd be happy to measure it and determine how bad the damage is....if any.

 

not sure about several. A few commited already 😊

 

[QVC] HURRY! ONLY 1 LEFT!!!! THEY'RE NOT MAKING ANY MORE!!!11!11 [/QVC]

 

So waiting to see if I can get a block from 928Intl, was told that I would hear back during week.
in the mean time I had a friend tell me there’s someone close to him that’s selling a late 86, 32V 5.0 M28/43 block minus the valve covers.
So I must ask you wise men of rennlist, can that replace my 1987 M28/42 block? It does come with pistons, heads and oil pan.

RV

 

No, not without major mods thus not worth it.