Then if no sputter when spritzing, you've got an electrical problem, not just timing. Which is reinforced by a no start at all one day failure mode. Lots of potentials, including the ign switch.

 

Sean's directions are focused on having voltage available at the ballast resistors for the ignition system. While cranking, an auxiliary contact in the starter solenoid allows battery voltage to bypass one of the ballast resistors. If you have full battery voltage (same voltage as hot post on solenoid) while cranking, the aux contact is OK. Remember that the starter drags voltage down some, so the 12.4V you see "at rest" from the battery circuit will be reduced. If the aux contact is bad, you'll see somewhat less than the as-cranking battery voltage. In a Pinch I've disassembled solenoids for interesting cars, carefully cleaning the three contact points inside at the terminals end, along with the copper disk sitting on the business end of the plunger.

Power for the ignition module and coil is through a pair of wire-formed resistors when the engine is running. When it's cranking, that additional path between the solenoid aux terminal and the junction of the two ballast resistors is fed directly. The goal is to offer normal coil voltage when it would otherwise drop while cranking.

Primary power passes through the ignition switch 15 contact(s). The trigger is from a Hall sensor in the distributor via the "green wire" to the ignition module. the connectors and the green wire itself seem to suffer a lot with age. The cable itself is a shielded twin-ax wire with interesting connectors. It's those connectors that seem to suffer most from heat and age, along with unobtainability as individual parts. If your Green Wire hasn't been replaced in known/recent history, try swapping in a new one to see if it solves some of the spark issue. Check for the basic stuff like primary power flow to the module and the coil too.

 

Sean's directions are focused on having voltage available at the ballast resistors for the ignition system. While cranking, an auxiliary contact in the starter solenoid allows battery voltage to bypass one of the ballast resistors. If you have full battery voltage (same voltage as hot post on solenoid) while cranking, the aux contact is OK. Remember that the starter drags voltage down some, so the 12.4V you see "at rest" from the battery circuit will be reduced. If the aux contact is bad, you'll see somewhat less than the as-cranking battery voltage. In a Pinch I've disassembled solenoids for interesting cars, carefully cleaning the three contact points inside at the terminals end, along with the copper disk sitting on the business end of the plunger.

Power for the ignition module and coil is through a pair of wire-formed resistors when the engine is running. When it's cranking, that additional path between the solenoid aux terminal and the junction of the two ballast resistors is fed directly. The goal is to offer normal coil voltage when it would otherwise drop while cranking.

Primary power passes through the ignition switch 15 contact(s). The trigger is from a Hall sensor in the distributor via the "green wire" to the ignition module. the connectors and the green wire itself seem to suffer a lot with age. The cable itself is a shielded twin-ax wire with interesting connectors. It's those connectors that seem to suffer most from heat and age, along with unobtainability as individual parts. If your Green Wire hasn't been replaced in known/recent history, try swapping in a new one to see if it solves some of the spark issue. Check for the basic stuff like primary power flow to the module and the coil too.

 

Following up on my no start. Finally took car to my mechanic and it turned out to be a chassis ground connection not allowing enough juice to get to injectors. Cost me 100