No start on my 80 question
#1
No start on my 80 question
I've read all posts regarding no start. My starter cranks , but no start. I have replaced fuel pump, filter and fuel pump relay and checked for gas by cracking fuel rail, gas does come out. Pulled plug to check for spark, there is spark, but not sure if it's kinda weak. Green wire looks new. I am changing coil, distributor cap and rotor today. If no start I was thinking of getting a used ignition module from 928 international during sale. Would useing starter fluid be helpful in diagnosis if it starts? Any other ideas. Car has 118k, ran well ,no start began about 2 weeks ago.
#6
Nordschleife Master
I suggest spending more time on analysis before adding parts. You could have a wiring or connector problem.
I'll use some starting fluid to see if it'll run a bit. If it does, that indicates a fuel problem. Also, use a timing light for spark issues. "it sparks" is one thing. "It sparks at the right time" is better.
Manuals and wiring diagrams are available on the internets for free download with a bit of searching.
I'll use some starting fluid to see if it'll run a bit. If it does, that indicates a fuel problem. Also, use a timing light for spark issues. "it sparks" is one thing. "It sparks at the right time" is better.
Manuals and wiring diagrams are available on the internets for free download with a bit of searching.
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#8
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
EFI relay Powers the injectors and controller.
Simple tests will narrow down your searching:
-- A "noid" light in an injector plug will quickly tell you if they are firing. Local parts store sells them.
-- A fuel pressure gauge will tell you if there's adequate fuel pressure. Ask around for a local gauge, or spend on a full kit (~$90 last I looked). I adapted a second factory fuel rail cap to accept a "common" GM gauge port and gauge.
-- An inductive timing light will tell you if there's spark and whether it's happening at the correct time. These are sometimes free/rent (loan with deposit) at local parts places.
Narrowing things down is key to a comprehensive troubleshooting strategy. IMHO anyway.
Simple tests will narrow down your searching:
-- A "noid" light in an injector plug will quickly tell you if they are firing. Local parts store sells them.
-- A fuel pressure gauge will tell you if there's adequate fuel pressure. Ask around for a local gauge, or spend on a full kit (~$90 last I looked). I adapted a second factory fuel rail cap to accept a "common" GM gauge port and gauge.
-- An inductive timing light will tell you if there's spark and whether it's happening at the correct time. These are sometimes free/rent (loan with deposit) at local parts places.
Narrowing things down is key to a comprehensive troubleshooting strategy. IMHO anyway.
#11
Rennlist Member
This may be dumb advice but it is completely free of charge and completely free to try.
Inspect your rear ground strap. I have cured many a no-start by simply removing the rear ground strap and inspecting for flaws. If it is original then it has flaws.
You may have a intermittent connection.
This also will reset the alarm just in case that is the culprit.
I have locked the car with the valet key and then unlock it weeks later with a different key. No start.
Sometimes it is the simple stuff.
Inspect your rear ground strap. I have cured many a no-start by simply removing the rear ground strap and inspecting for flaws. If it is original then it has flaws.
You may have a intermittent connection.
This also will reset the alarm just in case that is the culprit.
I have locked the car with the valet key and then unlock it weeks later with a different key. No start.
Sometimes it is the simple stuff.
#12
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Did it cough, spit, sputter, or flame out of the intake when using starting fluid? If so, you may have your ign timing setup way wrong.
If it ran well before you started working on it, I would go back to all the components you had in there before. It would appear you have introduced a fault. Recheck your ign wire positions, and make sure. Do not presume you know the firing order, or cylinder numbering method either. Check them by the book.
If it ran well before you started working on it, I would go back to all the components you had in there before. It would appear you have introduced a fault. Recheck your ign wire positions, and make sure. Do not presume you know the firing order, or cylinder numbering method either. Check them by the book.
#13
No sputter at all. Car has run fine, then one morning it cranked,but no start. I don't think I introduced a fault,nostart was there before I did anything. I am going to check green wire and ignition module connections
#15
Get a someone to give you a hand. Get under the cars so you can access the wires on the starter. When cranking the black/yellow wire should have 12v. If not, then your car won't start. You can ignore the yellow wire because if your car is cranking, you have voltage there.