Some now-that-the-engine-bay-is-empty questions if I may
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Some now-that-the-engine-bay-is-empty questions if I may
Engine is out of my '84 and rumor has it that a certain Greg Brown as an S4 engine that is waiting for it's new home. Given that the engine is out there is some maintenance that would seem to be easier to do now;
1) front coupling on the 5 speed; drop the torque tube down and then fill the air with blue words?
2) clutch and brake master cylinders; remove the brake master cylinder and booster and then fill the air with blue words?
3) should all four studs for the suspension arm have thick washers on them? Only my rear two do.
4) new engine mounts; attach them to the car or engine before installing?
Thanks - kind of exciting to be putting things on rather than just taking things off.
1) front coupling on the 5 speed; drop the torque tube down and then fill the air with blue words?
2) clutch and brake master cylinders; remove the brake master cylinder and booster and then fill the air with blue words?
3) should all four studs for the suspension arm have thick washers on them? Only my rear two do.
4) new engine mounts; attach them to the car or engine before installing?
Thanks - kind of exciting to be putting things on rather than just taking things off.
#2
Team Owner
1. with the engine out remove the top bell housing the TT can stay right where it is.
swap in a new part. NOTE the life time version works well here.
Also replace the old release arm bushing since the bell housing will be on the bench.
2 remove the brake MC and booster, remove the clutch master cylinder and blue hose/ black hose,
replace with new parts. Also get the right size slave and the GB slave flex hose
3 post a picture for a concise answer.
4 put them on the engine with the 2 thicker bolts loose,
then the studs can be pushed into the crossmember when you get close
swap in a new part. NOTE the life time version works well here.
Also replace the old release arm bushing since the bell housing will be on the bench.
2 remove the brake MC and booster, remove the clutch master cylinder and blue hose/ black hose,
replace with new parts. Also get the right size slave and the GB slave flex hose
3 post a picture for a concise answer.
4 put them on the engine with the 2 thicker bolts loose,
then the studs can be pushed into the crossmember when you get close
#3
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Coolant reservoir?
Washer filler neck?
Rebuilt upper a-arms?
Clean. Then clean again?
Washer filler neck?
Rebuilt upper a-arms?
Clean. Then clean again?
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks for all of the responses.
I have already pulled the reservoir and filler neck to replace them with better ones, but thanks for the tip.
Stan - will pull the remaining bell housing, I have a OEM replacement front coupler. Are you saying there is a better one to use?
Here is the washer in question, front one.
I have already pulled the reservoir and filler neck to replace them with better ones, but thanks for the tip.
Stan - will pull the remaining bell housing, I have a OEM replacement front coupler. Are you saying there is a better one to use?
Here is the washer in question, front one.
#6
Team Owner
the outfit in WI makes them they are all metal and capture the ball mechanically,
they are fiddly to install,
but with the bell housing out of the way its almost as easy as if the TT was out of the car.
just make sure to measure the front shaft distance if you get it wrong the bell housing will have to come out again .
For the washer follow WSM suggestion
they are fiddly to install,
but with the bell housing out of the way its almost as easy as if the TT was out of the car.
just make sure to measure the front shaft distance if you get it wrong the bell housing will have to come out again .
For the washer follow WSM suggestion
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they are fiddly to install,
#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#10
Team Owner
measure what you already have and measure the old ball cup center to front of the locknut,
this will get you close,
Dave 928 Motorsports makes these lifetime shifter ball cups .
With the engine in ,
removal of the bell housing makes this an easier job.
also have a 17 MM open end wrench cut in half and a 17 mm crows foot so you can final tighten the assembly,
use red loctite to set it,
make sure the cup is set so it will have enough side to side play
this will get you close,
Dave 928 Motorsports makes these lifetime shifter ball cups .
With the engine in ,
removal of the bell housing makes this an easier job.
also have a 17 MM open end wrench cut in half and a 17 mm crows foot so you can final tighten the assembly,
use red loctite to set it,
make sure the cup is set so it will have enough side to side play