leiplouis79

Ok-79 - ROW - replaced my front lower ball joints and wheel bearings - obviously it would need an alignment -understood... But why is my steering wheel clocked almost as if I would be making a left hand turn- what would be the top of the wheel at around the 10 o'clock position? I never unhooked the tie rods at any point. I could understand it being off some, but not that far? Not an alignment expert by any means - still trying to find a shop I can trust.

Thanks for the help guys.

Mrmerlin

moving the spindle locations changes the forces on the front end,
drive it to settle it ,
then have the car aligned

Rodrv6

Changing the lower ball joints probably changed the camber angle on the wheels, which will directly affect the toe settings. The toe settings will directly affect the steering wheel centering. A full alignment will fix it.

Jerry Feather

There are three variables in this situation. One is the steering wheel; another is the rack; and another is the location of the lower ball joints. It may be that your car was aligned before with the steering wheel centered and then the ball joints were adjusted to get the wheels correct. The rack may have been off center, but you would not have noticed that.

You should settle the suspension as suggested then take it in for alignment. Don't let them jack it up any to do the alignment. Then have them center the rack. There is a detent in it that can be located with a pointy bolt in the front of it. Do a search about that, if you need to.

Then have them set the lower ball joints for the alignment. When that is done then if the steering wheel in not centered, remove it and put it back centered.

dr bob

Spend a few minutes with a common carpenter's bubble level and a couple spacer blocks (identical thickness). Set the level and blocks so the blocks are between the top and bottom rim edges and the level. Now fit a 5/32" (4mm) drill bit between the top block and the level. Adjust the camber eccentric until the level indicates vertical.

I made a fixture that holds a laser-level to assist with alignment. To measure camber, I rotate the laser fixture to vertical so I can use the angle pieces as the spacer blocks to the wheel edges. For adjusting camber, you can use a couple strips of wood for the spacers, and just set your carpenter's bubble level against them. I use elastic "bungie" cords to hold things snug against the rim edges. Take a look at the pictures below for an idea of what I'm describing. The silver level is the one we are discussing; the yellow laser level is not part of this particular adjustment.

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Camber is adjusted by moving the ball joints in or out from the car. This tilts the wheel for correct camber, but also effectively changes toe, causing the change in steering wheel angle. The actual alignment process is iterative, with final toe setting the last adjustment. Camber-caster-toe-camber-toe, then verify all settings after all adjustment is done. Rinse, repeat, until all are correct at the same time.

HTH!

Pictures:

leiplouis79

Appreciate all of the advice guys. If I were to attempt- the do it yourself version. It does not appear to be much room with the car on the ground to access the eccentrics/ bolts. Is there a trick or is it just a pain in the butt?

Wisconsin Joe

I have a pair of ramps made from 2x10 lumber. 3 layers gives me a bit under 6" of "lift".

Just enough room to reach the stuff to do the alignment, yet the front wheels never leave the ground.

I use them for oil changes too.

dr bob

I do the alignment with the car on the floor at normal ride height. There's plenty of room underneath to access the eccentrics and nuts. The height of the eccentrics off the floor doesn't change with ride height, although the access spaces will. Go after the nuts and eccentrics from behind each front wheel, and you won't find stuff in the way.

-- I use a bathroom make-up mirror placed inboard of the adjustments so I can see the eccentrics and which way to turn them.

-- I have paint marks on the eccentrics at their full-offset positions.

-- Add plenty of light underneath as you work, rather than relying on feel.

-- Use caution when loosening the nuts with weight on the wheels, loosening them only enough to allow the adjustment.

-- Be Sure to use a torque wrench to verify the correct torque on those adjusting nuts too, and verify you settings only after the nuts are correctly tightened.

-- Changing either caster or camber will affect toe. While camber is the easiest of the three settings to get right, it definitely affects toe the most. For the OP, getting camber correct is essential after a balljoint change. Hhe car still needs to be either settled (by driving) or pulled down to get it to normal ride height before final alignment.

-- If you car has settled a lot on tired springs prior to the work on it, now's a great time to make ride height adjustments to get it back closer to design height. Do final alignment only after the car is at that new settled height.

-- Wal-Mart sells thin HDPE plastic "cutting sheets" in their kitchen-tools department. Of course they come in three-packs and you want 4. Spray a boundary layer between two with PAM cooking spray, and you have instant "slip plates". A pair under each front wheel makes adjustments a breeze. Put chocks under the rear wheels or set the parking brake hard, or you'll find the car slips sideways as you push and pull on things.

Many alignment places offer "lifetime" alignment for a few extra dollars. Work with them to get initial settings close before you go put settling miles on the car. They can adjust everything now, maybe with extra toe-in, and make the mostly toe-in final adjustments after everything is back to normal height.

Schocki

Did you still have the original aluminium ball joints on the car and you replaced them with steel now? If yes, then the answer is simple: the exzenters are revered now. Your former caster exzenter is now the camber and vice versa.

Read the Note on the left side in the middle....

dr bob

OP shared that the alignment needs are caused by his replacement of the lower balljoints. Hopefully with steel. No mention of how he managed the change in the eccentrics.

leiplouis79

Appreciate all of the advice guys - I'm going to collect up and fab the components. Currently delayed by weather - as I'm working on it under the carport between the house and garage. I currently have a 91 Suzuki Cappucino that my son imported from Japan last month in there. Cool little car actually - my old head still has a time trying to work with right hand drive & shifting