When is an intake refresh necessary?
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
When is an intake refresh necessary?
my car has 84k and over the weekend did a diagnostic with the Bosch hammer. Only the hall sensor showed an issue with a short to ground.
Flappy works fine, sensors are fine, no vacuum leaks, and car runs great; idles well, and performance is wonderful.
so, when do I consider an intake refresh? is it mostly a mileage factor, or age, or neglect?
do I wait for symptoms to occur, or is this something that requires preemptive action?
is there anything that car be done to prevent this service, or is it just a matter of time?
anyone out there have a high mileage car that has never needed an intake refresh?
Flappy works fine, sensors are fine, no vacuum leaks, and car runs great; idles well, and performance is wonderful.
so, when do I consider an intake refresh? is it mostly a mileage factor, or age, or neglect?
do I wait for symptoms to occur, or is this something that requires preemptive action?
is there anything that car be done to prevent this service, or is it just a matter of time?
anyone out there have a high mileage car that has never needed an intake refresh?
#2
Rennlist Member
Based upon your report, your throttle position switch, knock sensors, idle stabilization valve, and flappy are all good, I would not touch it.
There is no need at this point in the car's life.
There is no need at this point in the car's life.
#3
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How did you know the hall sensor showed an issue with a short to ground? Is this something the hammer reports?
#4
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If everything is working, no need to yank the intake. Unless the finish is chipping off & you really want to fix that.
Instead focus on the fuel lines, those can rot through just from age.
If everything is working, no need to yank the intake. Unless the finish is chipping off & you really want to fix that.
Instead focus on the fuel lines, those can rot through just from age.
#5
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Yes: never turn the engine on again.
It is a matter of time. Rubber on an engine doesn't last forever.
If your '90 isn't leaking oil from the filler neck and cam covers right now and if it isn't leaking coolant from the water bridge then either:
- an intake refresh has already been done
- you've lost the key
- you or the PO have paid 5x the price of a single intake refresh to have individual failures repaired over the last 27-ish years.
See above list.
And mileage has nothing whatsoever to do with it. Rubber degrades due to heat cycles, freeze cycles and oxygen exposure.
or is it just a matter of time?
If your '90 isn't leaking oil from the filler neck and cam covers right now and if it isn't leaking coolant from the water bridge then either:
- an intake refresh has already been done
- you've lost the key
- you or the PO have paid 5x the price of a single intake refresh to have individual failures repaired over the last 27-ish years.
anyone out there have a high mileage car that has never needed an intake refresh?
And mileage has nothing whatsoever to do with it. Rubber degrades due to heat cycles, freeze cycles and oxygen exposure.
#6
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Yup. Even if there's a bit of a oil or coolant leak, postpone the intake refresh until there's something broken. Then, do the full monty intake refresh and you're good for 10-20 years.
#7
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
How did you know the hall sensor showed an issue with a short to ground? Is this something the hammer reports?
If everything is working, no need to yank the intake. Unless the finish is chipping off & you really want to fix that.
is there (even a semi-decent) way to do a little feather sanding and spray can job on the intake so it looks a little better?
Worf: no leaking from water bridge, but my oil filler neck always has a film of oil that I need to wipe off, and my temp ll sensor is "moist". I have read Dwayne and others report about doing an R&R on the filler with intake in place....I don't want to create further leaking by an improper reinstallation.....should I just leave it be??
also, getting off topic, can you retrofit the earlier metal fillers on the later engines? is there any need, or is the issue resolved with a baffle?
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#8
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Interesting - I have the Theo tool and when Kevin W and I checked his car he had a Hall sender fault, but I don't think it mentioned 'short to ground'. Hmmm.
#9
LOL, get off the phone with you and this is the first thread that pops up. Good talking to ya man.
#10
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
you too Sean, thanks, as always for the sound advice!! much appreciated. going to try to tape the spades, but just spoke with Roger and he has the sensors in stock for about 150. probably wasting time with the tape...LOL
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The EZK programmatically checks to see if the Hall sensor changes state (which rotates an ordered list of cylinder numbers for knock sensing).
#14
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The EZK doesn't have a way of knowing why it's not working. "Short to ground" or "break in the circuit" are possible faults listed in the WSM for code 2134 "Hall generator signal".
The EZK programmatically checks to see if the Hall sensor changes state (which rotates an ordered list of cylinder numbers for knock sensing).
The EZK programmatically checks to see if the Hall sensor changes state (which rotates an ordered list of cylinder numbers for knock sensing).
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Worf: no leaking from water bridge, but my oil filler neck always has a film of oil that I need to wipe off, and my temp ll sensor is "moist". I have read Dwayne and others report about doing an R&R on the filler with intake in place....I don't want to create further leaking by an improper reinstallation.....should I just leave it be??
There is a risk of stripping or breaking each water bridge bolt. About 1 in 12 - 1 in 16 snaps requiring some remedial effort. Intake in place would make it difficult to deal with if it is one of the back two.
Leave it alone until you:
- have a real problem
- decide to do it all before you have real problem.
If you can get a metal filler neck use it.