Ricardo Vega

Hello guys, I'm kinda lost........working on my engine and want to remove camshafts and heads. I've seen the WSM's but I don't seem to wrap my head around the idea......

Anyone done this with documented pictures and written text?

I've seen other links online but kinda of fuzzy.

Can someone help me out and direct my lost *** in the right direction?

RV

Ad0911

I trust you will get a ton of advice here. I just want to share a little bit of bad experience I had when removing the heads. When I pulled the heads of my '79 the remains of the old gasket crumbled apart and bits fell in the cylinders. This forced me to take out the pistons to clean out the cylinders. In itself a good thing but was not planned.

Ricardo Vega

Okay, so I should say that I've got an intake manifold and intake "runners" thats saturated with oil. It's driving me up the wall that I'm cleaning my engine very well but not the heads and valves that are very dirty.

SwayBar

It's very easy.

First set the engine at 45 degrees BTDC with the piston in cylinder 1 rising in the bore.

Remove timing belt.

Remove cam gears, etc. There are notches on the cam to hold onto when loosening the cam-snout bolt.

Loosen all the cam saddles a little at a time, and the cams are out.

To get the heads off you are going to need a breaker bar AND a big pipe to put on the breaker bar to loosen the head bolts if the heads were never off before.

Imo000

Why didn't you use a vacuum cleaner and some oil?

Ricardo Vega

SwayBar-Do camshafts have tension on them at 45*? I'm assuming I remove all 4 camshafts a 45*? At what angles is there no tension at, 45*?

Imo000, I don't get the oil and vacuum cleaner thing.

I tried to clean one exhaust outlet from engine block and did so at 45* and saw 7 out of 8 valves closed from outside in. As I cleaned that one out I did have Dremel tool grinding away residue I also had industrial vacuum sucking out all the garbaaaaage. But noticed alot of it stuck on valves. Which is why I want to remove heads and hen valves to leave like new!

RV

928Myles

Richard,
there is always tension on the cam shafts. That is why you remove the cap bolts gradually and evenly across all the caps. The WSM procedure calls for special tools to hold down the cams while doing this but these are unnecessary with the above method. WHAT YOU DO NOT WANT TO DO is to loosen the cam cap bolts more that a couple of turns at a time. This leaves the cam prone to damage as the pressure from the valve springs tries to bend it and there is nothing above for it to hold against.

Myles

SwayBar

There will be tension on the camshafts with the crankshaft at 45 degrees; this position of the crankshaft allows one to turn the camshafts without hitting the pistons.

There will always be tension on the camshafts when the ramp of the lobes are in contact and depressing the lifters.

You'll need to remove the chain tensioners, then remove all four of the external saddles on the ends.

Then you can slowly loosen the internal saddles evenly to remove each camshaft.

Imo000

I was talking about the other posters comments. If there is dirt in the cylinders, just spray some WD on it and bring the piston passed top dead centre then the dirt and oil will stay at TDC and yo can wipe it off.

As for your case, have you tried flushing the valves out with something like vasol?

Ricardo Vega

Thanks to all that sent me a message. My concern was removing bolts and the camshafts popping out and hitting my face. But the 1/4 turn on each bolt makes sense, to prevent too much pressure creating on one spot and damaging. That totally makes sense.

So if I'm reading it right, remove pressure from all bolts evenly? Even the ones at the end of the valve covers?
How is chain removed? I don't see master links. Or is it one piece and left on and when both camshafts are installed chain is wrapped around both?

I haven't cleaned anything out with any fluids. Just by hand with a rag to see how dirty intakes were. And they're soiled. I'd like to get into each intake and outtake with a Dremel took and wire rotary wire brush end to removed the caked on oil/dirty.

RV

granprixweiss928

What year is this car/engine in question? What Engine code?

Setting at 45 deg - does not apply to a 16V.

granprixweiss928

DO not use a wire brush on the tops of the pistons. It worth damaging them. Leave it be

Also pulling heads means replacing studs, usually. Sometimes they dont come out easy and then you have bigger problems

SwayBar

Chains are one-piece and removed with both cams.

Before removing cams, I zip-tie the chain so the cams retain their indexing to one another.

Ricardo Vega

928Myles-So bolts on camshaft holders are long enough for them to removed and there not be tension on them once they've been removed from block?



@granprixesweiss928-I'll post a pic of the code stamped on block. But it's a 5.0L 32 V. And yes, NO WIRE BRUSHING piston heads and inside cylinder walls.
Why would and why wouldn't you want to replaced head studs? How do you determine that? I've seen both sides of that view online but not opposed to changing.

SwayBar-Thanks for info. Should I replace them now? I'm at 130,XXX miles. I've been told to replace chains and chain guides/tensionors.

RV
M28/42, what do those numbers mean?

The Forgotten On

Porsche changed the alloy of the head studs to a sh*t alloy compared to original.

If you do have corroded studs, try and find used ones to replace them.