Lizard928

I was having a good conversation with a few of my other 928 friends who work on cars and thought that it would be a good idea to start a thread about how much time can actually be sunk into properly fixing our cars.

These numbers are all based on the average car without any broken hardware or the like.

Motor mounts and oil pan gasket with reasonable cleaning 10 hours.

Removing the intake, and valve covers, having them powder coated, cleaning, and reassembly between 14-18 hours depending on the powder coating job done.

Timing belt job with installing a porkensioner 12 hours. This includes replacing the crank main seal and resealing the oil pump. Though if you are wanting to get every ounce of dirt off of a car that has been leaking for a long time you could easily spend 12 hours just cleaning!

Replacing the HVAC diaphragms 8 hours. This includes removing the recirc box and re-sealing it. There is always a bunch of crap to clean up afterward as well.

Replacing the front of engine harness without other work being performed 3 hours.

I know that Sean Ratts and myself are very similar in our timelines from discussions with him. But I would like to hear from others to see what their times are like. And I know Sean and others would really like to hear as well.

I have heard of at least one person charging around 29 hours (no broken hardware), to just do the intake, but that is absurd when paying shop rate and someone who is supposed to know the car. Which is another reason I am interested in hearing times as well.

polecat702

It's a work in progress, time is irrelevant. I save the receipts, but not crazy enough to total them up!

bureau13

Timing belt, complete front end re-seal, PKT: 5 weeks

I'm sloooow, and that included a lot of time running in to beg for help here

soontobered84

16 valve PKT/timing belt/WP/oil pump/front main seal is MUCH faster done than 32 valve version.

worf928

The problem with these type of threads is that no 928s are the same at this point. Between cleaning, bad bolt holes, rework or extra time needed due to previous shops and while-you're-in-there items it's almost disinformation to simply drop a single number for a single job.

More informative would be a range from best case to typical almost-worst-of-the-worst case.

For me a timing belt job is 8 to 20 hours.

Daniel5691

Thoughts:

It would be interesting to know the actual time to completion for the common tasks "first-time-through" compared to "been-there-done-that" averages... that might be helpful to the less-experienced (or in my case, least-experienced) mechanics.

It might also be interesting to hear some insights on the other time-consuming aspects of restoration. In my case, it has been a perfect storm of delays.
1) I don't know what I am doing, so I have to learn everything for the first time.
2) I often have to back-track my work progress to check some previously unknown detail or aspect of the restoration.
3) The machine shops in my area (within 100 miles) are swamped with other work/reluctant to do anything to a PORSH/ or in the best-case scenario, waiting for Sonnen Alusil-friendly supplies.
4) Parts acquisition is error-prone for the inexperienced owner. I bought a 5.0 block + crank + pistons a year or two ago, only to find that the pistons didn't actually 'belong' to the short block (different tolerance groups). At the time of purchase, I lacked the knowledge to even think to ask if the pistons mated correctly to the block. Again, an unexpected set of steps needed to get the short block assembly to work together.
5) The amount of time it takes to save the money to pursue the hobby. I have to budget for good tools, expensive parts, etc.

I am not complaining, mind you, not in the least.
I freely choose to do this, generally enjoying the work; but there's more involved in "getting finished" for some of us. Rant off. Thanks. Dan

Daniel5691

... and I'm right at 3 years on an engine + bay refresh...

worf928

That's fine. I took 7 years to disassemble my spare GT motor.

soontobered84

I always say that I enjoy working on these cars because I don't HAVE TO work on these cars. Not one 928 is my only means of transportation.

GregBBRD

My times for motor mounts and oul pan gasket are also 10 hours.

I charge 16 hours to do a complete intake refresh. If we powdercoat the intake, I add 4 hours to prep the intake after it comes back, change

Regular timing belt with water pump and rebuilding the stock tensioner is 12 hours. I charge more to teseal, charge cam gears, and reset cam timing.

I charge 6 hours to do all of the diaphrams, but I do not remove the HVAC box....

4 hours to do a 14 pin loom....I include ALL new clamps with my looms and replace them all.

My cleaning standards are extremely high...."If you can't lick it, you can't put it back on the car."

the flyin' scotsman

I do sometimes work on others cars for likeminded owners as an escape from my fulltime role.

I do what needs to be done and it is what it is..........if they want the cheapest job, minimal cleaning, parts from unknown internet sources then take it elsewhere.

Mrmerlin

Like others are saying every job is different some include harness rehab fixing the f up from past service gone bad
I am close to some of these numbers but it usually gets into other systems so ,

I find an intake refresh also includes fuel lines, plug wires, plugs, cam covers, with a reseal and powder coated, power steering tank and hoses, new throttle shaft bearings, and flappy bearings, knock ,crank, and hall sensors, TPS, icv, and flappy pod, hcv and short hose, coolant change, new T stat and seals, fresh cross brace and bolts, so this turns into a 40 hour job or more.

I try to have set times for t belt and wp so about 12 hours
add in mms opg oil change 12 hr
PPI 3 hr with an auto includes flex plate check end play ck.

Swap in new brake MC and flex lines and adj e brakes and bleed about 6 hrs to 8 hrs

Install a set of shocks set ride ht and alignment about 8 hr to 10 hrs

Install a interior carpet, each set has 30 pieces of carpet, and service the doors,
new door edge lamps, vapor barriers, and lubricate the window arm and gears and latch, about 20 to 25 hours
NOTE this can go into recovering the seats figure about 8 hours per seat recovering

GT6ixer

I think we need everyone to specify their 928 position in life first for this thread to have the proper perspective. Colin, Greg and Stan I know are professional 928 specific mechanics that by definition should mean they have been there and done that. Their hours to do any job therefore should be less than guys like me, Daniel and Polecat who are just enthusiasts. I don't know about Worf but I thought I heard he was a pro or at least a retired pro.

As for me, I grew up helping my uncle's wrench on their wrecks and then went to college and became an aerospace engineer. As an engineer I make a slow mechanic. I plan out everything and go very meticulously. I have to read all the various how to's before I start anything. As such the top end refresh took me about 6 months. I dunno how many hours, because like Polecat said, when it gets done it's done. I just want it done right, not necessarily quick. But when I pay for it I want it done quickly and right. I had Colin do a lot of stuff to my car this past summer. I set a budget with him first and he worked with me to stay on that track. From what I know about the jobs he did for me, I can say the guy is very quick and as such I felt it was good value for money.

Sagres74

To build on your question: once you purchase the new/replacement parts, how long before you actually install them My new suspension has been in the garage for about 12 months lol

dr bob

My general rule of thumb is to use 3-5x what I would expect it to be for another "normal" car.

-- On the 928 I work slowly because I enjoy the work as therapy.

-- When I hurry I break stuff, forget stuff or miss a step.

-- No job seems to be "just right" until I do it at least twice.

-- Every actual hour of repair requires two additional hours of cleaning.

-- Old stuff seems to break if I don't take extra care doing the work.

-----

Before starting, there's research and diagnostics that take some indeterminate amount of time. I search for writings from others here, go through my casual then intensive troubleshooting effort to confirm what's needed. Then line up parts and pieces. Make sure I have the tools needed. Coordinate the time for the work.



Then just drain the old oil out after dropping the front belly pan. Reseal the threads and washer on the drain plug. Remove the filter and catch the oil from the side of the sump. Clean the area where oil ran down. Put new oil in the new filter, leaving the level about 3/4" from the top. Install the filter. Replace the drain plug and use the torque wrench to tighten it. Replace the front belly pan. Lower the car, and add the correct amount of new oil. Clean the filler cap thoroughly. Verify the oil level. Clean the dipstick handle thoroughly. Close the hood after removing any fingerprints or other evidence that the car was serviced. Update the log book. Clean the oil catch pan, the funnels and the tools used. Put everything away. Raise the car again and clean the floor. After it dries, lower the car. Unbolt the lift from the floor and move the columns into their storage location. Shower and clean clothes before starting the engine and looking for any leaks. Go drive the car to make sure all is well. Clean the car thoroughly when I get back, then cover it in its storage spot. Plug in the maintainer. By then it's dinner time.