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RESOLVED: Is there a quick fix for a sticky headlight?
While driving my 88 S4 to work this morning, I noticed that the right side headlight did not retract all the way when turning them off, while the left side would retract fully. If I push down on the stuck headlight it will return to the rest position. It seems as though there is more more friction than normal in the movement and that is preventing it from returning to the rest position.
I activated/de-activated the lights a few times and it would stick each time.
Also, I did inspect the drive motor linkage and it was all fine. C-Clips and bushings all present.
I am wondering is this a simple case of adding spray lube to the shaft assembly, or do I need a rebuild, or did some part fail?
I looked at the PET it's not clear to me how the system works. When off, I can pull the headlights up by hand from the lenses, is that correct? I would think they would be locked on the down position so they don't bounce up over bumps
Last edited by Michael Benno; 10-16-2017 at 12:49 AM.
Inspect carefully and see what it's hitting on the way closed. There's a spring-loaded "safety catch" (pieces 9-13 in the drawing) that will release when something blocks the bucket from fully retracting. Otherwise the parked position has the rotating part resting on the stop #37 in the diagram.
Otherwise it's possible the spring in that catch has failed. You'll be in through the forward fender liner for some of this inspection and repair. You can "test" the function of the catch by manually (with key off) rotating the headlights up a little with the **** on the motor. When they are up high enough for you to get a grab on the top of the lamp/bucket, just pull that up. There's a noticeable detent release as the spring roller in the catch clears the groove it normally sits in. If you don't feel that release then you will want to look at the catch and the spring. If you do feel it, then search for whats causing that to release on the way to full retraction.
The arm that the little catch indexes to is pinned to the cross-shaft (#5). It's very rare that the pin might fail but it's possible, letting that arm move on the shaft. You'd notice if it was free because the bucket would try to come too far forward and would be loose on the shaft with the bucket in the raised position. My nickel is on a failed spring (#10) on the catch, or something blocking full retraction.
This is a pretty simple issue in the giant scheme of things. The right side is easier to deal with if only becsue you don't have to wrestle the alternator cooling duct as you pull the wheelhouse liner.
Put the front on stands so you can pull the wheel and the liners comfortably. Plan to remount the horn that's fallen in there. Otherwise, everything is pretty easily accessible. With the lights in the up position, the bucket comes off and the lamp assy comes out of the yoke. Then you can pretty quickly see, feel, fix whichever is causing the symptom. If it takes more than an hour or two of actual work and a couple beers I'd be surprised. Start early so it doesn't drag on into football time.
Tape some towels/blankets/whatever around the fender opening to protect the paint as you work. Any one- or two-hour project can easily stretch into "all day" if I start cleaning stuff while I'm in there. Good reason to have TV in the workshop. So that the cleaning does't interfere with the football part of the day. Order in sandwiches...
It took me about there attempts of poking around at the headlight lift regulator but I think if have it figured out.
I was flying a little blind because I could not find any mention in the WSM about adjusting the headlight regulator Assembly. If you know a resource for this mechanism, please pass it along.
The headlight was not retracting all the way because the mechanism was no longer centered in the fender and it was catching.
I spent some time with fussing with the regulation mounting bolts on the left and right fender walls. They allow for some vertical and horizontal adjustment. I was able to get both headlights properly centered in their openings and operating smoothly up and down.
However, I noted the headlight had some play at the top. It appeared that there was a gap between the top of the regulator movement and the top stop on inside of the fender. I couldn't reach the bolts from the engine bay without removing the ABS pump or jump-post assembly.
A little poking around I realized the regulator has some adjustment were it is mounted to the motor and the chassis. The three bolts were loose and the regulator had dropped to the bottom of the adjustment. Moving the assembly up brought the lights back up to the proper positions forced against the stops.
In hindsight this was probably the cause of my issues, The regulator had come out position and probably was casing twisting and misalignment of the whole system.
Everything is is back in order, but I sure would like to have some factory information on how to adjust everything. It seems like there are at least 7 different adjustment points.
Along these lines..... after replacing the right side (passenger) headlight assembly, the right side seems to be coming all the way up to full stop, but isn't fully retracting, almost, but not quite, and the left side isn't coming up all the way (feels like an 1/8" to a 1/4" gap to full extension (lock). Suggestions would be appreciated !
TIA!
It took me about there attempts of poking around at the headlight lift regulator but I think if have it figured out.
I was flying a little blind because I could not find any mention in the WSM about adjusting the headlight regulator Assembly. If you know a resource for this mechanism, please pass it along.
The headlight was not retracting all the way because the mechanism was no longer centered in the fender and it was catching.
I spent some time with fussing with the regulation mounting bolts on the left and right fender walls. They allow for some vertical and horizontal adjustment. I was able to get both headlights properly centered in their openings and operating smoothly up and down.
However, I noted the headlight had some play at the top. It appeared that there was a gap between the top of the regulator movement and the top stop on inside of the fender. I couldn't reach the bolts from the engine bay without removing the ABS pump or jump-post assembly.
A little poking around I realized the regulator has some adjustment were it is mounted to the motor and the chassis. The three bolts were loose and the regulator had dropped to the bottom of the adjustment. Moving the assembly up brought the lights back up to the proper positions forced against the stops.
In hindsight this was probably the cause of my issues, The regulator had come out position and probably was casing twisting and misalignment of the whole system.
Everything is is back in order, but I sure would like to have some factory information on how to adjust everything. It seems like there are at least 7 different adjustment points.
Had a similar problem.The problem was on full headlights up, headlights were not level and pointing to the sky slightly and release mechanism would not stay locked. 3 bolts on the regulator/headlight motor had slipped down in the adjustment slots (not tight) could see the imprint where it had been.
Thank you Michael, Google, and Rennlist!
today I faced an issue with my left headlight when retracting it would bind to something, do a little pop halfway through then continue to close. It’s like it’s popping off it’s cradle. Any thoughts?
It is indeed popping off the motor driven rotating part - you will find you can pull the headlight freely back up into the up position if it has detached - see if its binding anywhere on the way back down - if so you need to solve this. The headlight bucket attaches to the motor driven arm just with a spring catch - this is so it will break free if you trap any body parts on the way down...
in the left fender well you have the airduct for the alternator and temp sensor,
if it comes free its possible that the hose will limit/ hit the headlamp base .
jack up the car ,
remove the wheel,
and liner,
and front block off plate
thanks for the swift feedback. It must have been something loose that resettled somewhere this morning. Oddly enough, took it out today and it ran like clockwork. I will take apart the splash shield and inspect what’s going on there. Hope it wasn’t some stupid stray cat!
10-13-2017, 02:39 PM
RESOLVED: Is there a quick fix for a sticky headlight?
