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Finally started on the exterior refinish after 7 years. Some PO had done a poor repaint that I have lived with for years as evidenced by the ugliness around the quarter window in the pictures below.
Had hoped to do this earlier this year and be done in time for 3rd Coast but thats not likely at this point
Had a water leak from the drivers side rear quarter window that would fill up the empty spare tire well in heavy rains.
I bought a new seal and finally pulled the window out tonight. I have some rust along the bottom edge in a couple of places but not as bad as I have seen. The seal was shot and I just cut the window out to expedite removal.
Questions I have are:
1. There is a black vinyl sheet that looks to be glued to the inside lip of the window opening and runs under the interior quarter trim piece. It has shrunk and pulled away at the bottom edge/ corner per the photo #3 upper edge. Should that be glued to the inside window opening and then the window seal goes over it during install? If so any recommendations on stretching the vinyl to get it back far enough to reattach?
2. As I cut the seal to get the window out I did not need to pull the interior quarter panel. Has anyone done a window re-install with the interior trim panel in place or must it come out?
When the metal has been refinished coat the area where the seal sits with DC111 this will prvent water from corroding the new finished area.
Note the seal area will hold water when the car gets wet
Thanks Stan.
Do you coat the car side metal and then install the window/ with seal or put the DC111 in the seal groove and install?
Based on what I have read and videos I have seen seems if it was applied to the car before window install that allot of the DC111 would end up on the outside surface of the inner seal lip as it will make contact with the car lip as it is being pushed into place and raised over the opening lip.
What about the vinyl trim attached to the inside lip? Is that factory or a PO's rig job? Seems it would interfere with the sealing especially as it is pulled away at the back bottom corner.
I'm undergoing the same job right now, thanks to a deer.
Your #1 priority is that rust, it isn't "that bad" - yet. My car had similar rust starting to form (not as bad as yours) but still needed to be taken care of.
My body guy ground down the area & treated the metal. Below is a before & after photo.
As for reassembly, I do not recall ever seeing someone having to remove the interior bits, shouldn't be necessary. Paracord & an assistant seems to be the best method.
As for chemicals, I disagree with Stan 100% on this one. The shop which repaired my 928 is very familiar with 928's and Porsche's in general. He uses soap & water so you don't damage the seal, nothing more.
The theory is, any kind of sealant will never guarntee the area under the seal stays dry, but can inhibit any moisture from evaporating which will accelerate future rust / corrosion.
At this time I'm attempting to re-stretch the 1/4 leather and glue it back down. This will be a temporary fix but I don't feel like pulling the 1/4 trim panel right now for the proper repair.
Hi to belt & brace's you should use 3M 08509 to seal the glass to the the seal i know the infill strip should close the gap in the seal but not allways just the bottom and some way up the sides and seal the ruber to the panel the same. Have fitted more windscreens and side windows when they used to be tripple X glass not laminated.
Hi to belt & brace's you should use 3M 08509 to seal the glass to the the seal i know the infill strip should close the gap in the seal but not allways just the bottom and some way up the sides and seal the ruber to the panel the same. Have fitted more windscreens and side windows when they used to be tripple X glass not laminated.
So what happens if you have to remove the window in the future?
As far as the black vinyl under the quarter goes, I do not recall it going under the rubber seal for the quarter window, would need to look.
However if you are going through a full respray, I'd suggest removing as much of the interior as possible, over spray, sanding dust and wet sanding is a bitch to clean up afterwords as it gets into every small crack.
The cars I see a Robert Buds place "clasic9" all come in for an interior AFTER the painting is done
Also if the car is has the original type spoiler (rain gutter) IIRC you need to remove the inner quarter to access the nuts and bolts.
Every window I've done, which isn't that many we always use DC111 or equiv. My neighbor owns a auto glass shop and he has tons of it on the truck. We used a similar material for aircraft windscreen, and all other windows. I know it's not automotive, but does a great job sealing out water as well as air gaps which make a lot of noise. Best to keep the water from getting in at all.
That's the crux of the problem, this is almost impossible to guarntee and such substances can prevent moisture from properly evaporating or escaping which now compounded the problem.
Same with dielectric grease - people slather it on electrical connections thinking they are keeping them protected & dry. The opposite is true, moisture can still find a way in, but now you've made it more difficult to evaporate & properly dry out.
These are vintage cars so I tend to side with those with experience restoring such auto's. An auto glass guy cares about today, not 10-15 years from now. Someone who does nothing but restore vintage automobiles sees what happens when various chemicals & fixes are used over time.
Originally Posted by potdog
Google 3M 08509 all the info there.
We know what it is, the point is if you ever have to remove the window again, any sealant used will make the job very difficult and possibly ruin the rubber seal.
You need that stuff for windshields since they do not have any other way to be sealed. These 1/4 windows are not the same type of application.
YMMV - it's your car to make an educated decision. People like Sean and I are simply sharing what we've learned or picked up from other experts out in the field.
I hate glazing compound used for quarter windows- I'm about 2 hours into removing that black crap from the quarter window channels of an '89 I'm working on, the only thing that touches it is a 3M stripe-off wheel. In about 7 cars' worth of quarter window R&R's, only 2 had goop on them and those windows had been out before. There's no reason to use any of that crap, it ruins a $200+ gasket that's otherwise often re-usable. A clean window frame (the vinyl does fold over the metal edge of the channel before installation) and careful installation makes for a watertight seal (Though perhaps I'd feel differently if I lived where it rains (?) ).
Question- is the DC111 being used primarily as a lubricant or a water-sealant for installation? I prefer P90 THX to lubricate the gasket for installation.
I hate glazing compound used for quarter windows- I'm about 2 hours into removing that black crap from the quarter window channels of an '89 I'm working on, the only thing that touches it is a 3M stripe-off wheel. In about 7 cars' worth of quarter window R&R's, only 2 had goop on them and those windows had been out before. .
In those cases where you found some sealant, and struggle to remove it - is there evidence of water ingress? Rust?
10-11-2017, 09:08 PM
Quarter window out pre-reinstall questions
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