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Quarter window out pre-reinstall questions

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Old 10-12-2017, 04:54 PM
  #16
Mrmerlin
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I use a syringe to inject the DC111 into the window seal to chassis. along the lower edge of the window.
if the window is already installed otherwise wipe the inner area where the seal sits to add a vapor barrier to protect the painted surfaces.

On these seals water can stay in the lower area for many days before it ever evaporates.
The DC 111 will also add a lubricating effect when installing the window seal.

The idea is to prevent water from getting through the painted area so corrosion can begin again.

NOTE as a temporary you could also wipe the DC111 onto the rusted area and it will stop the corrosion as it provides a water barrier, this till the metal can be properly prepared and a new painted surface is applied.

The DC111 is also good for any rubber seals on the car as it will rejuvenate them.
This also works well on The lower door edge seals if they are not cracked they can be brought back put a smear on them then let sit in the sun it will assist in the DC111 absorbing into the rubber.
Keep it off the window so it wont crate streaks.

NOTE with DC111 applied you may notice streaks from water rinsing the sealant down the paint this removes easily with spray detailer.

NOTE use the DC 111 on the rear lock grommet surround and the wiper pivot seals, works great for keeping out the water.
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Old 10-12-2017, 04:56 PM
  #17
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Originally Posted by docmirror View Post
In those cases where you found some sealant, and struggle to remove it - is there evidence of water ingress? Rust?
See my photo above. This car had been painted prior and somebody used something to seal the 1/4 window. That photo was after I spent a couple of days cleaning the channel.

I'm not looking forward to removing the other 1/4 window but I'm going to anyway anticipating it looks similar. Fix it now before it spreads.

This is a one owner car since 1983 (was a SoCal car from 80-83) and lived in a climate controlled garage.

Originally Posted by docmirror View Post
This tool makes short work of the sealant.

https://www.zoro.com/westward-drill-...iABEgLcAvD_BwE

Avail at Northern tool also. Note, get the short bristle type which will not damage surrounding metal.
Yea...I'm not taking that tool anywhere near a painted surface unless the plan is to re-paint that area anyway. Even then, I was careful how I cleaned up the mess left behind on my 80.
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Old 10-12-2017, 05:04 PM
  #18
SeanR
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THIS THREAD BROUGHT TO YOU BY

DOW CORNING


FEATURING DOW CORNING DC111 AN ESSENTIAL PRODUCT FOR YOUR PORSCHE 928.




product endorsements are not a reflection of Internet Brands marketing program, personal or professional opinions or actually something that they would say. But use it, it's good ****.
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Old 10-12-2017, 08:02 PM
  #19
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NOTE I also use DC 111 on the master cylinder base seal to the booster and the grommet bores,
this will prevent water migration and thus the MC failing due to corroded grommets and a leaking tank.
Smear the grommets and the bores with DC 111 and they will not rust ,
the MC tank gets wet every time the hood gets wet,
the water runs down the tank and will wick into the grommets,
the DC 111 will prevent water from entering
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Old 10-13-2017, 10:07 AM
  #20
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The black vinyl is factory and is necessary due to the design of the early interior quarters. It covers the insulation. Mine shrunk as well and I replaced it with domestic grainy vinyl. On one of my parts cars, it was wrapped around the window channel on my 79, it appears to be under the interior rubber lip only.

To reglue the vinyl, use Weldwood Landau Top and trim contact cement. Don't use the spray stuff or any consumer grade product. This area gets a lot of sun exposure and heat and the consumer products don't hold up. Ask me how I know!!

Good luck!!
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