UKKid35

My hood is stuck closed. I think it's probably happened because I've been jacking the car up and down a lot recently while trying to remove the heads.

I know this is a problem people have had before but despite trying all the advice on Nichols I can't release the hood. I can reach up and feel various parts of the mechanism but can't work out what is what. Does anyone have any pics of the mechanism so I can visualize better what I need to do?

Thanks

Thom1

Hi Paul,

Here is an excerpt from my hood essentials document. See the rest of the document for adjustment procedures. If everything except the latch is aligned correctly, you can just loosen the upper latch piece to adjust.

If you get the hood stuck closed, reach up through the front grill. Grab the hood release cable right where it goes into the latch, and pull. If necessary, push on the pointy cone shaped thing that goes through the latch hole to center it while pulling the release cable. You can move the cone around wedging a screwdriver. There is also a screwdriver slot in the end of the male cone tip that you can use. If the locking nut farther up the shaft is not too tight, you may be able to unscrew the entire shaft, and release the latch.

HOOD ESSENTIALS:

HOOD SHOCK REPLACEMENT:

Prop or tape a broom or stick under the high edge of the hood. Put a dense pillow, folded carpet scrap, pad, etc. behind the trailing edge of a hood sharp corner. Tape a pad or rag around the sharp trailing edge corner. Put your replacement shock where you can install it with your free hand. Loosen the 2 clips on one shock only with a little screwdriver. Grip that side of the lid because it will move during the next step. Pull the shock off of its ball joints. Replace one shock at a time. Just push each socket over the corresponding ball. Repeat on the other shock. The thick canister of each shock is higher than the thin rod.

HOOD REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION:

See above padding and support data. Disconnect upper hood shock clips. Loosen all 4 upper hinge bolts. Have a friend to remove bolts while holding hood, as you remove the 2 bolts on your side. Lift hood away. Reverse procedure for installation.

HOOD ALIGNMENT:

If the hood was misaligned before, or you have trouble getting it aligned, remove the upper portion of the latch, align with the hinges, replace the upper latch portion.

Never close hood completely unless male and female portions of latch are matched up pretty well. If you get the hood stuck closed, reach up through the front grill. Grab the hood release cable right where it goes into the latch, and pull. If necessary, push on the pointy cone shaped thing that goes through the latch hole to center it while pulling the release cable. You can move the cone around wedging a screwdriver. There is also a screwdriver slot in the end of the male cone tip that you can use. If the locking nut farther up the shaft is not too tight, you may be able to unscrew the entire shaft, and release the latch.

If the hood was previously aligned correctly, and you are removing and re-installing the hood, align using only the 4 hinge bolts at the hood interface: See padding and support instructions above. Before hood removal mark the position of the hinges with a chalk or grease pencil for future reference. Upon hood installation, tighten one side. Get the bolts almost tight on the other side. Push the hood around on that loose side until you think it is close. Tighten those bolts. Gently lower hood, and check alignment at edges and latch. Repeat procedures on both sides through as many iterations as it takes. You can push the hood way down onto the hinge by pushing on the hood with one hand, and tightening bolts with a ratchet socket wrench in the other hand.

Rear height is controlled mainly by hinge adjustment. Front height is controlled by turning the threaded male post of the latch.

You may want to adjust the rubber bumpers for non-interference, and readjust them after alignment is complete.

HOOD LINER PREPARATION & REPLACEMENT:

I did the initial hood prep with the hood on the car. When it gets to the step of prepping with KleanStrip PrepAll, Remove the hood. Overspray and poor adhesion can result from working with the hood overhead. You have practically no overspray when you work with the hood off.

Preparation is everything. Applying adhesive or paint is potentially the simplest part of the job. Cleaning, masking, and final prep are essential. Touch-up paint, clean, and wax the hood ribs before you install the liner. I used 3M Super 77 adhesive on my 928 International supplied OEM? – who knows - hood liner. After 8 months, it looks as fantastic as anything I have ever done with restoration – no sags! In preparation, I vacuumed off the old liner residue. I cleaned the heck out of the hood at the self service car wash with a high pressure wand. I washed and rinsed several times.

I removed the hood. I vacuumed all loose residue out of there, and cleaned that inside surface with KleanStrip PrepAll. ( It removes wax, etc.) I set the liner in place, and very, very carefully trimmed the liner, flaring the edges to fit under the lip multiple times. When I was totally satisfied with the way the liner sat in the hood, I sprayed the adhesive on the hood about in 6” strips. I very carefully placed the trailing edge of the liner in its adhesive prepped place. I kept the liner rolled back until I shot the next 6” of adhesive mainly on the hood, and some on the liner. I carefully monitored the orientation. I then rolled the liner forward a few inches. I then repeated the adhesive process until I rolled the liner to the front. I also trimmed some more as the liner rolled forward. Use 3M adhesive cleaner or Turpentine for clean-up.

TAREK

UKKID35,

I will try to take a photo of the mechanism later on tonight for you. When you see it, you'll be able to insert a thin piece of aluminum between the hood and the bumper and hammer it (with confidence) just right to open

GlenL

Not sure of the clearence on S4, but on the older cars you can remove the grille and reach up to the latch. The latch is the same on all cars.

The release cable runs along the bottom on the latch. It is attached to two tabs that stick down. The first tab is stationary and holds back the sheathing (outside). The inner cable attaches to the other tab which is part of the mechanism. Squeezing the tabs with a pliers will release the hood. They're maybe a inch apart so a "Channel Locks" works well.

TAREK

Sorry I haven't been able to get you that pic...do let us know if your hood is still stuck. I can make an effort to do this tomorrow

UKKid35

Hi Tarek, I won't be able to work on the car again until Saturday (Friday night your time) as it gets dark before 4pm and I'm don't get out of work until 6pm. If you do get a chance to take a couple of pics before the weekend that would be a huge help.

Many thanks

John Krawczyk

I had this problem when i broke the backing plate for the hood release. To open my hood, i reached my hand up from the bottom behind the grill fins to the latch and pulled the cable DOWN with my fingers. You may want to used gloves, depending on how hard you have to pull on the cable. There is not a lot to grab.

UKKid35

Thanks everyone for your help and suggestions, what I actually needed was an assistant to push down on the hood as I pulled the cable - Thanks Jon!