drew_816

I installed new ball joints, eccentrics, shocks, tie rod, etc on the drivers side, but it was almost impossible to get the shocks in without removing the upper control arm.

The problem is the nuts are on the inside and one is behind a support brace or something that appears to be pretty damn important not to mention impossible to reach. Is there a secret incantation or mini robot that I can get to climb between the engine and the body and undo the bolt and then put it back in? And getting a torque wrench in there... forget it.

Im not gonna try to install the passenger side shocks the same way I did the drivers side it was way to half ***. How do I get that bastard control arm out??

Marc Schwager

Drew,

I was able to get the shocks in with the control arms on which was a good thing because I couldn'y figure out how to remove them either!

My shock technique was to prop up the control arms with a hefty piece of wood, then insert the top of the spring/shock assembly. I then took a large phillips screwdriver and stuck it through the lower shock mounting hole. I used the screwdriver to turn the shock so it screwed in through the upper control arm. It was still a bit of a struggle.

It's probably easier if the car is upside down :-)

Bill Ball

Yes, I think the key word is "almost" impossible. The spring should "thread" through the controil arm as Marc described. How'd you get the old spring out?

onebad928s

heres what i did , first i took off the center not on the shock shaft not the other 3 with the car still on the ground.Then i jacked up the car took off the tire and placed another jack under the lower control arm.Disconnected the main bolt that goes through bottom of the shock,disconnect sway bar link,lower spindle nut (use ball joint fork if you need to),disconnect tie rod(gives you more play on spindle you will see)Took out lower control arms 4 bolts (2 front 2 rear)you will notice how they come out. Then took the jack out from under lower control arm and took out the control arm,shock will drop straight out. For the coil bang it loose and turn it like a cork screw through upper control arm.Then your done should take you an hour the most unless you run into problems like i did (lower control arm was cracked).the rear is even easier and good luck!!

Lou
83 928 5speed

Garth S

It's been a while since I've pulled the upper ctrl. arms (and it's gonna be a lot longer before the next.... readjustment of the Konis), but, they do come off!
As I recall, in addition to the usual wrenches, the best was a long handle 1/2" drive ratchet. Most of the operation was blind and split above & below the car--- done by 'feel': pretend you're a procotologist!(or any other orifice of choice). Almost everything is in the way (surprise), but loosening belts and swinging accessories out of the way helps.
Lou, you're a braver man than I! I've never released tension on the spring until it was far away from the bodywork, and secured by three spring compressors - but it sounds like a breeze to do.

Mike LaBranche

The key for me was getting the lower control arm out of the way. The shock/spring will 'thread' thru the upper arm. You have to have shock/spring at just the right angle so you'll need to wiggle it around on the way up. Maybe lube the insides of the upper arm beforehand. Attach the lower shock mount bolt before the tops, it will go a lot easier than the other way around.

Good luck and have fun.

drew_816

well, I guess I had it right on the drivers side... It was SO hard to thread the shock through the upper control arm that I thought there had to be a better way. I had a friend to hold up the upper control arm and it took all my strength to jam that thing through. I suppose I'll do it on the passenger side too.

I gotta wait till I can afford new upper control arms and tie rods though. I found that the rubber boot on the drivers side control arm was split in half and I think the ball joint is taking a real beating from the elements. The passenger side control arm isn't much better and the tie rod is pretty crappy too.

I did fix the wobbling dangerous drivers tie rod so its not dangerous to drive anymore. This thing is quite a money pit. It's lucky I love it.

GlenL

Drew,

If the ball joint itself is good then a new boot can be put on. You don't need new $$$ arms for that. Just $ boot.

Also, I use a piece of wood and a floor jack to get the upper arm to that one angle where the spring will go through.

jon928se

Drew

Not 100% certain because the early upper control arms are different to later models. But - undo the two clamps that fasten the lower control to the chassis and swing the lower arm out of the way - no need to undo the bottom ball joint. Then dissasemble in situ and reassemble in situ - Its two years since I did this on my 88 so the old grey cells are a bit rusty but it wasn't difficult - just a bit of trial and error geeting the right components back in on top of the spring (screwed into place) before finally threading the shock in from the bottom. Getting the spring compressors on with the spring in place can be entertaining but is possible. One thing I definitely do recall cos I learnt the hard way - undo the sway bar on both sides of the car while the car is still sat on its own wheels and don't reconect it until the car is back on its own wheels.

Regards
Jon
Black SE

Just wait until you try and take the big pin out that connects EVERYTHING together at the lower rear shock mount!

jpitman2

I got mine out and back with the upper arm in place. One side not too bad, other a bear, screwing the shock assy up through the top arm. Also not interested in removing top arm!!!
jp 83 Euro S AT 47k

drew_816

Thanks for the info. I think I'll just get a new boot as suggested unless the ball joint is bad. what's the best way to tell? test for play while the lower ball joint is off?

I'll give the pass side a shot as soon as I can order a new tie rod.

again, thanks

Marc Schwager

Drew,

I put new tie rods on when I changed out my Aluminum ball joints. The result is that the steering is (to quote our NE friends) "wicked tight"!

GlenL

Not hard to test that upper ball joint. With the knuckel removed, work the ball joint around. It should be firm and smooth. If there is slop where the ball is loose in the cup, then it needs to be replaced. If it moves easily, like falls back to straight down by itself, then it's on the edge and you should consider replacement.

Re-pack with standard bearing grease and put the boot on. One thing to remember is that the boot gets squashed down at installation. If there's too much grease in the boot it will make getting the knuckle back on difficult and then squirt out.

Bill Ball

Drew:

When you get ready to do the TB/WP let me know and we can have a TB party. I think we live pretty close, if you're in the Portola Valley in the SF Bay Area.

Cobey

Yes indeed! I would like to attend that party and see how it is done.