How does one determine if the clutch is dragging?
09-06-2017, 10:43 PM
#16
Nordschleife Master
I will definitely pull the cover and check the clutch. (More questions to follow when I get to that point.) I've been warned about its weight, and I do not look forward to fighting it with my girl arms. Lol. I took a break and had an interior day today. Tomorrow, I'll be back at it. Most likely inspecting the clutch. The WSM will be my reading companion for the evening. Thanks for all the help. I hope to contribute something to the community one day, as you've all been so helpful.
It's pretty heavy.
I'm not a big guy, and I had very little trouble getting it down.
I had a helper when getting it up, and having a second pair of hands to hold it in place while I inserted the stub shaft was a huge help. I'm not sure I could have done it solo.
If you can get a helper for when you remove it, you'd have a better time of it.
09-06-2017, 10:48 PM
#17
Former Sponsor
I'm getting some grinding when I try to go into first and second gear (unless at a VERY low speed). Clutch slave cylinder is leaking but the fluid level is not low. I am ordering a replacement. But in the meantime, how can I tell if my clutch is not fully disengaging when the pedal is depressed? Is it as simple as lifting the rear end, depressing the clutch pedal while the car is in gear and seeing whether or not the wheels spin? (They don't.) I'm trying to explore all the possibilities before assuming my synchros are bad. I really don't believe this to be the case, since the problem is also in first gear. Also, the problem with second didn't happen until I replaced the ball cup. Second used to be a little tricky to get into at speed, but I could do it. Now, there is no going into second unless the car is at a low speed or stopped. I have adjusted the ball cup so that the shifter sits roughly 90° as per instructions in the WSM.
Another weird thing I noticed: With the engine off, shifting into gear is sometimes difficult unless clutch pedal is depressed. As I work my way up and down the shift pattern, I find it to be very random. Sometimes it's fourth that's tough to get into. Sometimes it's second. Sometimes first, and so on throughout all the gears. But with the pedal down, no trouble at all. It just doesn't make sense to me. If anyone can enlighten me, I'd appreciate it.
1983 928s
Another weird thing I noticed: With the engine off, shifting into gear is sometimes difficult unless clutch pedal is depressed. As I work my way up and down the shift pattern, I find it to be very random. Sometimes it's fourth that's tough to get into. Sometimes it's second. Sometimes first, and so on throughout all the gears. But with the pedal down, no trouble at all. It just doesn't make sense to me. If anyone can enlighten me, I'd appreciate it.
1983 928s
Drive the car until the transmission is warm. Put the car in the air so you can crawl under (safely.)
Pull the rear rubber plug to the rear coupler.
Transmission in neutral, clutch released. Have someone start the car and push down on the clutch at idle, while you watch the shafts/coupler.
On a car with warmed up gear oil, the torque tube shaft/coupler/5th gear shaft should completely stop spinning within a couple of seconds.
If it doesn't completely stop, you have a clutch problem. (You may also have a transmission synchro issue....1st and 2nd gear "crunching" is very common on this vintage transmssion.)