Hello All,

Over the years I have seen and tried every trick in the book for removing the pilot bearing. I never liked any of them particularly well.

So instead, I bought a blind hole puller set.
The puller used is like this.



Next in the pilot bearing and tighten.



Then put a 17mm wrench on it that just fits in the outer edge of the bellhousing. Then put a block against the rear edge of the crank, and lower girdle and use a much larger wrench against the head of the 17mm wrench which is in the bearing. Like so,



Once that is done, simply push the large wrench forward and even the toughest most stuck bearing will slide right out.

If you are one unlucky soul where the bearing has separated you can use the next larger blind hole bearing puller on the outer race and repeat.

As to where to buy this tool. You can get it on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/291982788410
Or search for blind hole bearing puller and you can get them just about anywhere.

 

Even easier to use hydraulic pressure. Pack the cavity in the end of the crank behind the bearing with wheel bearing grease. Find a large round something and wrap in electrical tape until it barely fits through the bore in the pilot bearing. Insert the driver and strike with hammer. Might have to pack in a little more grease after the first go but it will pop right out eventually. Costs about $.23 in grease and electrical tape. I've yet to have a sealed pilot bearing that this method will not remove.

Mike

 

I've tried that method before and have never had success on a 928 with it.

 

Me too. Made a big !@#4ing mess though.

 

Colin, thanks for posting this, with the details. I stumbled onto a crude variation of this with a HF blind-hole puller set, works great. (HF tool sets: Great for useful parts).

I am sure the grease trick works for some. Everything like that I've tried, I wind up on the receiving end of a gooey, sticky mess.

Cheers,

 

Well, looks like another handy tool going into the box!! Nice find!

Add me to the list of never being able to get this method to work & made a huge mess in the process.

 

The hydraulic method worked flawlessly on the 928 engine I just swapped into my S4. There are two keys to success with this 1) the cavity behind the bearing must be FULL of grease and 2) the piston must fit the bearing bore very snug. I usually use electrical tape to get the piston to the correct size such that the last wrap of tape gets disturbed as the piston in driven in. Sometimes it takes a couple of tries to expel all the air from the cavity and get enough grease in there.

Mike

 

Mike, didn't you have the engine out of the car? Would be easy that way.

 

Do we really need to turn this thread into the debate / q&a of how to make the grease method work?

No, we don't. The time I spent attempting to make it work in the past makes this tool worth every penny. This considering I made my own that works great every time, but it's cumbersome.

 

I think this blind hole puller is a better tool than the bolt and nut with an allen trick,
I have had luck with removal BTW.

The grease works but its better to have the engine out of the car,
it does make a mess and I think thats why every guy wants try it.
And its almost free.

Come on admit it you want to jump into that muddy puddle of water and splash

 

I've only used the grease method once, and it worked perfect on my '89 GT's pilot bearing. (In the car, on my back, on jack stands.)
Now, I currently have this kit which is great if you have the access:

My current problem is trying to remove/install the pilot bearing while the engine is in the stand. I've tried dang near everything, and because of the limited (about 3") clearance, I haven't yet gotten it. If I had a 3' instead of 3" I have a killer hydraulic hand pump powered internal puller that would get it all day long.

 

That's a great tool! I've used om a racing go kart spindle where the bearings were stacked on top of each other and only need to remove the top one.