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Intermittent weak noid light signal was one of those symptoms. Randomly would light on some cylinders, then not on next round of tests. Thought it was me.
Car was fast becoming laughing stock of naval base at little creek where son in law reported.
Would randomly run, stop, no start. Years of hell. Failing controller that eventually died.
Intermittent weak noid light signal was one of those symptoms. Randomly would light on some cylinders, then not on next round of tests. Thought it was me.
Car was fast becoming laughing stock of naval base at little creek where son in law reported.
Would randomly run, stop, no start. Years of hell. Failing controller that eventually died.
Good morning - I bet that was super frustrating.
I had a local shop test my ECU, and a spare, and supposedly they both checked out. Now that doesn't mean they couldn't be having intermittent issues however.
I think the plan for today is to recheck the grounds by measuring for continuity whe wiggling the ground wires.
Mine checked out too the first time it was evaluated. Had some circuits preemptively replaced. Worked great for approx 500 MILES over a year. Then failed in March while I watched it sit idling on driveway.
Not a scientific cause effect.....but it's the only thing wrong with car. Runs great on a loaner.
Mine checked out too the first time it was evaluated. Had some circuits preemptively replaced. Worked great for approx 500 MILES over a year. Then failed in March while I watched it sit idling on driveway.
Not a scientific cause effect.....but it's the only thing wrong with car. Runs great on a loaner.
I would have been climbing the wall, good on you for seeing it through.
Back to this darn car - I may have made a breakthrough.
I tested the AFC sockets on the CE.
Pin 85 on the CE panel XVI is not getting 12v, only 11v and change. I have 12v everywhere else.
That, from searching, is associated with the ignition switch. And the ignition switch is associated with the warning chimes etc, and mine will go from very soft to proper volume intermittently.
Rich Andrade in Phoenix shared some 'scope traces by PM, illustrating some differences between the L-Jet and LH injector drivers. They support the idea of the current-limiting circuit in the L-Jet injector drivers. With that in mind, you might pull the injector connectors, and put them back in one by one so you can verify the resistance at each one. I don't know the coil resistance for your low-impedance injectors, unfortunately. Maybe best to go through the ones you have, looking for one or more that has noticeably less than the others. All it takes is one extremely low or shorted injector to kill all the others' function in a batch-fired array. With all of them unplugged and the FI relay open, there should be infinite resistance between the two injector circuit wires, and all should be floating completely clear of ground.
Do you, by chance, know why the car was parked/stored all those years? More than a few have been parked for a few days when a problem is experienced, and those days turn into years that fade the memory. Most cars that "ran fine when I parked it" actually ran fine right up until they didn't and were therefore parked. Point is that you may easily be looking for something that wasn't caused by the storage period.
With that in mind, you might pull the injector connectors, and put them back in one by one so you can verify the resistance at each one. I don't know the coil resistance for your low-impedance injectors, unfortunately. Maybe best to go through the ones you have, looking for one or more that has noticeably less than the others. All it takes is one extremely low or shorted injector to kill all the others' function in a batch-fired array. With all of them unplugged and the FI relay open, there should be infinite resistance between the two injector circuit wires, and all should be floating completely clear of ground.
Will do that if what I found below doesn't take care of it
Do you, by chance, know why the car was parked/stored all those years? More than a few have been parked for a few days when a problem is experienced, and those days turn into years that fade the memory. Most cars that "ran fine when I parked it" actually ran fine right up until they didn't and were therefore parked. Point is that you may easily be looking for something that wasn't caused by the storage period.
I got the usual story, ran great and parked due to life/kids etc. Don't really believe that anymore.
Look what I found - no screws! Need to replace those obviously, see what if any difference that makes.
Anyone know off hand what size these are? Tried PET and searching here without luck.
One step forward: replaced the ignition switch and the rest of the car's electrical system is happier.
I have 12v at the injectors.
I have 12v at pins 10 and 29 on Ljet connector
One step back/sideways: still not getting 12v at the right spots;
a. Measure voltage at pin 30? YES - have 12v here
-- If 12V present, next (for all test cases below, have the ignition turned on) is there 12V at pin 87? NO - I do not have 12v here.
No power here at all actually
If yes go to (b)
-- If no, check the connection at the battery. A direct cable connects the battery to the AFC relay pin 30. Is there 12V at AFC relay pin 85? NO - I do not have 12v here.
EDIT - I have 11.6 here.
This suggests that power is not getting from the ignition switch to the pins on the socket where the relay plugs in, correct?
And look what I found - the plug for the yellow wire that connects to the ignition switch was dangling and only connected by a thread. When I lightly touched the wiring it fell off. That bad of a connection would likely cause intermittent problems and/or voltage drops.
Now I don't know if yellow wire issues is related to the AFC pin volts issue, but still glad I found this.
Solid yellow is **usually** the 50 connection at the switch, true when the switch is in the "crank" or "start" position. The '84 wiring diagrams are marginal at best [read: worse than worthless] , so I usually look at the '83 and maybe the '85 drawings to get some sense. The '83 drawing shows the yellow as 50 ok, but has nothing in black/yellow that your picture shows. The '85 also shows yellow as 50, but does include the black-with-yellow as X (true in "run" but false in "start" position). '83 Drawing shows X as black-with-red.
The female pins I suspect are the same ones used in the 14-pin connectors under the seats and under the hood at the front corner. If 928 International doesn't have the repair piece for that relatively local to you, Roger may have them.
08-30-2017, 08:11 AM
