Voltage gauge problems
#1
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My voltage gauge reads "0" all the time but the red warning light is not on. The needle doesn't move at all. Oil pressure works fine. Gauge was working a few weeks ago but seemed to stop working after the battery died and I jump started the car at the battery terminals.
Questions: What exactly does the voltage gauge measure? Battery voltage or system (running alternator) voltage?
Should the guage register anything with the key turned on but not all the way to the crank position (the engine not on)?
Is there a simple test for the guage to see if it is working?
Did I fry something on the alternator? Tests? (if it looks like the alternator, I can do a search of the threads).
Thanks. (It was a busy holiday weekend with me and the shark - fixed a few problems, uncovered a few more
)
Questions: What exactly does the voltage gauge measure? Battery voltage or system (running alternator) voltage?
Should the guage register anything with the key turned on but not all the way to the crank position (the engine not on)?
Is there a simple test for the guage to see if it is working?
Did I fry something on the alternator? Tests? (if it looks like the alternator, I can do a search of the threads).
Thanks. (It was a busy holiday weekend with me and the shark - fixed a few problems, uncovered a few more
![EEK!](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
#2
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A common complaint, Flott.
A search of the archives (click the 'search' link at the upper right of any page) for 'voltage gauge' resulted in several matches. Here's one of them:
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...=voltage+gauge
A search of the archives (click the 'search' link at the upper right of any page) for 'voltage gauge' resulted in several matches. Here's one of them:
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...=voltage+gauge
#3
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I don't think the jump at the battery terminals was a good Idea.
Might spike the brain.
In the future jump at the front post under hood.
Need to get a good charger with trickle feature.
If you do charge remove both cables first.
As Randy suggested use the Archives and or the Greg Nichols site for alt testing as well. Test the alt before mucking around with the pod and Volt meter.
Might spike the brain.
In the future jump at the front post under hood.
Need to get a good charger with trickle feature.
If you do charge remove both cables first.
As Randy suggested use the Archives and or the Greg Nichols site for alt testing as well. Test the alt before mucking around with the pod and Volt meter.
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A 928 Lister contributed this recently. I hope this helps someone.
I received a number of requests to explain the work done to install a relay
and improve both voltmeter readings and dash lighting (see transcript of
previous message below).
1) Remove steering wheel and instrument panel
2) Locate outgoing positive cable at the ignition switch (lets call it A)
3) Locate the wire which carries the positive current to the dash. Cut it
and you end up with two wire ends,( lets call them B and C).
4) Get a regular light relay which has 4 posts.
5) The positive post has to be connected to A
6) The negative post to good ground
7) The two remaining posts to B and C.
8) Replace wheel and dash
Use medium size wires so there is no voltage drop
Make the cables long enough so if you ever have to replace the relay, it can
be done without removing steering wheel and instrument panel again. Place
the relay (plastic tie?) in a location near the bottom of the panel.
Good luck
Manuel Tanoira
Buenos Aires, Argentina
´88 S4
Visiting an auto electrician in Buenos Aires I saw an ¥82 on which he was
>working. He found out that the voltage at the meter was low, hence the low
>readings. He installed a relay, carrying current directly to the dashboard.
>Result: improved dash lighting and voltmeter readings coinciding with
actual
>battery voltage.
>I had it installed in mine and saw: Voltage reading with engine off close
to
>12.5 volts and 14.5 with engine running. The dash lighting improved
>noticeably. Readings now coincide with digital tester readings at the
>battery.
I received a number of requests to explain the work done to install a relay
and improve both voltmeter readings and dash lighting (see transcript of
previous message below).
1) Remove steering wheel and instrument panel
2) Locate outgoing positive cable at the ignition switch (lets call it A)
3) Locate the wire which carries the positive current to the dash. Cut it
and you end up with two wire ends,( lets call them B and C).
4) Get a regular light relay which has 4 posts.
5) The positive post has to be connected to A
6) The negative post to good ground
7) The two remaining posts to B and C.
8) Replace wheel and dash
Use medium size wires so there is no voltage drop
Make the cables long enough so if you ever have to replace the relay, it can
be done without removing steering wheel and instrument panel again. Place
the relay (plastic tie?) in a location near the bottom of the panel.
Good luck
Manuel Tanoira
Buenos Aires, Argentina
´88 S4
Visiting an auto electrician in Buenos Aires I saw an ¥82 on which he was
>working. He found out that the voltage at the meter was low, hence the low
>readings. He installed a relay, carrying current directly to the dashboard.
>Result: improved dash lighting and voltmeter readings coinciding with
actual
>battery voltage.
>I had it installed in mine and saw: Voltage reading with engine off close
to
>12.5 volts and 14.5 with engine running. The dash lighting improved
>noticeably. Readings now coincide with digital tester readings at the
>battery.