I have four, no five running examples of powder coated water bridges in my possession that have no problems. All run and perform correctly. Idle and display correct temps.

I have never understood this assertion.

 

I'm not installing a GB oil fill plate so no worries there. Going to use the paper gasket and Honda bond, but definitely good to know for future reference.
Thanks

 

Then you are just lucky.

 

I've "chased" this problem several times on cars with the water crossover powder coated. Interestingly enough, I've not noticed issues with the temperature sender, but have had very wonky fuel injection problems.

Add in the problem with the water hoses slipping off because of the powder coated surface and the amount if brain damage simply isn't worth the minor improvement in appearance.

I'm to the point where I simply refuse to install a powder coated crossover.

I bead blast these items and then scrub them with Scotch Brite and soap to make them look original.

 

The difference in oil reaching the intake with my extra baffle and the stock set-up is phenomenal.

It's the best money you could spend!

 

Ditto, have installed several of them and most have issues even after cleaning that crap off the important bits. Won't do it again.

 

I have stripped 3 water bridges on 3 different cars with running issues.
all are running properly now that the sensors are sending the correct info to the computers and the dash

 

But, if the water bridges are in full contact with the block and the temp sensors are threaded into the water bridge and the engine is properly grounded to the body how can you have issues?

The only thing that could happen is that the powder coating prevents the water bridge from transferring heat to the atmosphere.

Jetson sorry for the off topic adventure.

I am one lucky guy I guess. Definitely not lucky in love so this all makes sense to me now.

 

You have not described the ground path of the NTC-II.

 

I just went through installing then replacing a powder coated water bridge. I couldn't get the orings or hose connections to stop leaking on the powder coated part. Swapped in a non-coated part and re-used the orings. All the leaks stopped immediately.

Mike

 

I've used the same powder coating service for as long as I've been powder coating my parts and they plug and cover all the holes. No leaks and no hoses flying off. I've never had them tape off the 45dg or inlets and outlets. They are not the fastest, but they do a great job - even the insides of the S4 manifolds are clean of any residue. I perform a check.

 

Kevin if you take a look at how the water bridge is insulated from the heads and block,
maybe you will understand how the only way to get a ground is via the 4 attachment bolts. otherwise the WB never touches the engine to ground itself.

 

NOTE these running issues may take a some time to manifest as the coolant has to start corroding the bolts due to the leaks created by the PC

 

And it can happen immediately or after and hour-or-so of running. The exact failure mode depends upon where the ground path is broken.

Copper Anti-seize paste is a good conductor.

 

There's a good reason why Porsche painted/coated the intake manifold, the filler neck (when it wasn't plastic), and the front cam belt covers, but left the water crossover raw.

In this case, there's two good reasons. Terrible hose/gasket retention and terrible ground path for the senders.

The last one I installed that had been powder coated (customer supplied) took us hours and hours to remove the powder coating on the water hose attachment points, the base where it touches the heads, the large O-ring to the water pump, the two senders, and the places where the bolts touch.

No more, for me!