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great build. Any way to add some sort of traction control too it all as you are using "GM" brains and harness etc.
My car breaks lose with little or no effort.?
Originally Posted by Hacker-Pschorr
Modern systems have surpassed what even the most experienced right foot can achieve. At least when launching such a powerful car.
I both agree and disagree with your point.
I typed out a long response but I figure it better not to clutter this thread.
I typed out a long response but I figure it better not to clutter this thread.
I have driven a Mclearn with launch control....fastest thing I have ever been in and I understand after driving, why so many super cars get totaled. I can honestly say that the Mclearn scared me a little, because I knew in the back of my mind that if the car got loose, most likely you weren't going to save it.
I will keep traction control in mind if I do another build, but for now I look forward to some really long burn outs.
It would be very difficult to get the factory traction control active. We do the stability control on the GM cars (and all the super cars). You would have to make it think it's still a Corvette. That would require bringing all the wiring, sensors, brake parts, and controllers from the GM vehicle. Even if it worked the vehicle model would be wrong and the control would be poor.
Decided to upgrade the fuel pump now after running some numbers. I choose the Bosch 044 pump that puts out 72.5 PSI with 82 GPH. This will be more than efficient for my setup.
The pump is a bit longer and uses a M 1.5 thread fitting instead of the slip hose fitting. I used AN fittings with SS line slip with hose clamp coming out of tank, same as stock connection. Everything went back together nicely.
Starting to figure out how I am going to build the intake. I cut the aluminum lip off the top of radiator for more clearance and using 3 1/2” tubing per A&A Corvette suggestion. I am going from round to oval with a height of 1 1/2” by 5’ wide to get over the radiator.
I cut 1 1/2’ tubing in half for sides and will fab top and bottom plate to finish the oval. I should have my new intercooler that is specifically being built for my car by end of week and once mounted I can finish the length and connection. I will have to build the plumbing from charger to intercooler and charger to air cleaner....lots to do.
6 to 8 pounds. Don’t want to to go anymore on pump gas and not pulling motor apart to do pistons, rods etc. motor should be very reliable and a daily driver if need be.
You can lower the radiator with a couple Z shaped lower radiator brackets and drop it at least a couple of inches. I did that when I was building the dual core Volvo intercooler and was able to run a 2 1/2" round pipe over the top of the radiator.
You can lower the radiator with a couple Z shaped lower radiator brackets and drop it at least a couple of inches. I did that when I was building the dual core Volvo inter cooler and was able to run a 2 1/2" round pipe over the top of the radiator.
I looked at that option, but it would create another problem that would be far worse. I have to run the compressed side of the charger plumbing on the bottom of the radiator and up into the inter cooler, so it would drop the pipe to low and could be damaged. I looked to see if I could come in from the side and there is no room. Ideally, I should have had the radiator built shorter, narrower and wider to accommodate the plumbing. I think when I am all done this will be a nice setup and work well.....at least I hope
kind of late now but if you have a hydraulic press, you can make nice oval tubing out of round by using a piece of 2x4 stuck inside the tube (otherwise the tube will start to make a figure-8 sort of shape once it gets squished too much).
use flat plates (maybe just more 2x4s) on top/bottom of tube to spread the force evenly.
kind of late now but if you have a hydraulic press, you can make nice oval tubing out of round by using a piece of 2x4 stuck inside the tube (otherwise the tube will start to make a figure-8 sort of shape once it gets squished too much).
use flat plates (maybe just more 2x4s) on top/bottom of tube to spread the force evenly.
I can buy a 3 1/2" round to oval in steel from Mandrel Bend Solutions, but I want to make out of aluminum. If you noticed in the picture I started with 3 1/2" round and made into oval on the other end. I want the option to flare the width or add a bend over the radiator and is why I am making my own pieces, otherwise I could have cut a longer tube and continued the oval. This is my first attempt at making something like this, so I am sure there will be some changes.
12-04-2017, 01:41 PM
