Rear wheel Bearing change project
08-07-2017 | 01:43 PM
#16
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From: saratoga, ca
Rattle gun is really tough on the differential. And where did you find 400 PSI or a rattle gun rated for that much pressure?
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Put the wheel(s) back on and put the car back on the ground. For those playing along at home, the nut on the stub axle is the second thing you remove when you attack this project, right after the center cap on the wheel. The center cap isn't an issue on Mark's race car, so the nut moves into first-removed, last-torqued position on the project steps list. A combination of transmission in Park or fifth gear and car on the ground with parking brake set is usually enough. Add an assistant's foot on the brake pedal if the nut is really stubborn. Then a LONG bar stiff enough for the forces needed will walk the nut off like buddah. 1/2"-Drive sockets and breaker bars do not come close to meeting this requirement. There's also a reminder in here somewhere that you really need to use a torque wrench or calculated force when reinstalling the nut. Too loose, and the bearing gets extra clearance and fails quickly. Too tight, and you risk stretching the stub axle and/or distorting the threads in the nut. Plus getting the nut off next time can be a real b!tch.
Reminder: the axle nuts are sacrificial, and get replaced after each use. Especially if you've accidentally tightened them blindly to "that's not going anywhere!" tight.
----
Long ago on a at-the-time interesting car (now very collectible as luck would have it), I was having trouble keeping the stub axle nuts tight. This car had two small single-row ball bearings in the carrier, with a spacer in between. With wider wheels, more offset than original spec, along with sticky tires, rear wheel bearing replacement was a monthly duty during the almost-year-round SoCal race season. I thought I was helping hold things together by over-tightening the nut, but the bearings still came apart with extra clearance. Finally the stretching stub axle gave out as I was over-tightening it (fortunately), leaving me with a non-rollable car and a couple really expensive axle pieces. The only difference between that setup and the 928 is the way the bearings are made as one in the 928 vs. the separate bearings with spacer in the Lotus.
The solution for the Lotus was a bunch of welding and machining of the rear carriers so I could fit tapered roller bearings with new custom better-alloy stub axles. That added almost a pound(!) of unsprung weight to each side with the sleeves, bearings, and the sturdier axles, but I never had to replace a rear carrier bearing set again in half a dozen race seasons following.
-----
Put the wheel(s) back on and put the car back on the ground. For those playing along at home, the nut on the stub axle is the second thing you remove when you attack this project, right after the center cap on the wheel. The center cap isn't an issue on Mark's race car, so the nut moves into first-removed, last-torqued position on the project steps list. A combination of transmission in Park or fifth gear and car on the ground with parking brake set is usually enough. Add an assistant's foot on the brake pedal if the nut is really stubborn. Then a LONG bar stiff enough for the forces needed will walk the nut off like buddah. 1/2"-Drive sockets and breaker bars do not come close to meeting this requirement. There's also a reminder in here somewhere that you really need to use a torque wrench or calculated force when reinstalling the nut. Too loose, and the bearing gets extra clearance and fails quickly. Too tight, and you risk stretching the stub axle and/or distorting the threads in the nut. Plus getting the nut off next time can be a real b!tch.
Reminder: the axle nuts are sacrificial, and get replaced after each use. Especially if you've accidentally tightened them blindly to "that's not going anywhere!" tight.
----
Long ago on a at-the-time interesting car (now very collectible as luck would have it), I was having trouble keeping the stub axle nuts tight. This car had two small single-row ball bearings in the carrier, with a spacer in between. With wider wheels, more offset than original spec, along with sticky tires, rear wheel bearing replacement was a monthly duty during the almost-year-round SoCal race season. I thought I was helping hold things together by over-tightening the nut, but the bearings still came apart with extra clearance. Finally the stretching stub axle gave out as I was over-tightening it (fortunately), leaving me with a non-rollable car and a couple really expensive axle pieces. The only difference between that setup and the 928 is the way the bearings are made as one in the 928 vs. the separate bearings with spacer in the Lotus.
The solution for the Lotus was a bunch of welding and machining of the rear carriers so I could fit tapered roller bearings with new custom better-alloy stub axles. That added almost a pound(!) of unsprung weight to each side with the sleeves, bearings, and the sturdier axles, but I never had to replace a rear carrier bearing set again in half a dozen race seasons following.
would the rattle gun hurt the differential, if the wheel is being held? I know the car's diff can have close to 3,000lb-ft of torque applied to the short axles in 1st gear, so i wonder what the shock force is of a good rattle gun. i dont know what strength setting i even had it on. it was just a shot in the dark to see if it would move. (and tire was on the ground)
interesting story about clearances and over torquing. yes, i know how do do something close to stock with my weight and radius distances, but illl do the final touches with the digital wrench at the shop i would imagine.
btw, you didnt answer my question or thoughts on the alignment. i still dont understand how removing the carrier will or could change the alignment.
08-07-2017 | 01:59 PM
#17
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Mark --
Any time you unbolt a suspension link there's risk of the alignment being affected. So it gets checked/adjusted. The lower pin and the connection to the LCA seems like there's no way for things to change, yet they do. The upper dogbone link gets the same bolt right back into the same hole. Yes, it can easily move enough to require adjustment.
In the front, you replaced the steering rack bushings. In theory you just stabilized the vertical location of the rack, but you found (or will find) that the toe and the steering wheel center both need adjustment. Change motor mounts with the crossmember out, and put the control arms right back in the same "saddles" in the frame, bolt the front bushings back over the alignment sleeves, and you still end up with adjustments needed.
As much as we'd like to believe that nothing moves since there's no "adjustment" at the fastener we remove, in reality even a tiny bit of movement (the clearance around a bolt through a bushing for instance) means the alignment has shifted.
Any time you unbolt a suspension link there's risk of the alignment being affected. So it gets checked/adjusted. The lower pin and the connection to the LCA seems like there's no way for things to change, yet they do. The upper dogbone link gets the same bolt right back into the same hole. Yes, it can easily move enough to require adjustment.
In the front, you replaced the steering rack bushings. In theory you just stabilized the vertical location of the rack, but you found (or will find) that the toe and the steering wheel center both need adjustment. Change motor mounts with the crossmember out, and put the control arms right back in the same "saddles" in the frame, bolt the front bushings back over the alignment sleeves, and you still end up with adjustments needed.
As much as we'd like to believe that nothing moves since there's no "adjustment" at the fastener we remove, in reality even a tiny bit of movement (the clearance around a bolt through a bushing for instance) means the alignment has shifted.
08-07-2017 | 02:24 PM
#18
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Ok, i just wanted to undersand if there was something i was missing. yes, i agree, there could always be something that is different.. when i changed the transmission, that moved everything, yet the alignment didnt change much at all. (still in the acceptable range) this , is much less of a change, but sure, if the long rods are bent or something, the alignment can change slightly. dont think too much, but ill check it after if i do remove the carrier.
as far as the front, the steering rack has ONLY to do with the toe in and thats easy to check. i checked it after and its still , 1/8" toe in total. (1/16" each) and the wheel couldnt be more pefectly centered. (im very sensitive to a non centered wheel) now , the wear patterns are much better, probably because of the excessive movement both vertically and horizontally of the rack. the car wasnt any faster, but was much easier to drive and the wear wew MUCH better it seemed.
EDIT: just checked the aligment..... front toed in 3/16 (total) and rear toed out 1/16th (total) hasnt changed in 3-4 years since the last time i checked it.
however, the front track is wider . 73/75" (f/r)
as far as the front, the steering rack has ONLY to do with the toe in and thats easy to check. i checked it after and its still , 1/8" toe in total. (1/16" each) and the wheel couldnt be more pefectly centered. (im very sensitive to a non centered wheel) now , the wear patterns are much better, probably because of the excessive movement both vertically and horizontally of the rack. the car wasnt any faster, but was much easier to drive and the wear wew MUCH better it seemed.
EDIT: just checked the aligment..... front toed in 3/16 (total) and rear toed out 1/16th (total) hasnt changed in 3-4 years since the last time i checked it.
however, the front track is wider . 73/75" (f/r)Mark --
Any time you unbolt a suspension link there's risk of the alignment being affected. So it gets checked/adjusted. The lower pin and the connection to the LCA seems like there's no way for things to change, yet they do. The upper dogbone link gets the same bolt right back into the same hole. Yes, it can easily move enough to require adjustment.
In the front, you replaced the steering rack bushings. In theory you just stabilized the vertical location of the rack, but you found (or will find) that the toe and the steering wheel center both need adjustment. Change motor mounts with the crossmember out, and put the control arms right back in the same "saddles" in the frame, bolt the front bushings back over the alignment sleeves, and you still end up with adjustments needed.
As much as we'd like to believe that nothing moves since there's no "adjustment" at the fastener we remove, in reality even a tiny bit of movement (the clearance around a bolt through a bushing for instance) means the alignment has shifted.
Any time you unbolt a suspension link there's risk of the alignment being affected. So it gets checked/adjusted. The lower pin and the connection to the LCA seems like there's no way for things to change, yet they do. The upper dogbone link gets the same bolt right back into the same hole. Yes, it can easily move enough to require adjustment.
In the front, you replaced the steering rack bushings. In theory you just stabilized the vertical location of the rack, but you found (or will find) that the toe and the steering wheel center both need adjustment. Change motor mounts with the crossmember out, and put the control arms right back in the same "saddles" in the frame, bolt the front bushings back over the alignment sleeves, and you still end up with adjustments needed.
As much as we'd like to believe that nothing moves since there's no "adjustment" at the fastener we remove, in reality even a tiny bit of movement (the clearance around a bolt through a bushing for instance) means the alignment has shifted.
Last edited by mark kibort; 08-07-2017 at 03:02 PM.
08-11-2017 | 01:12 PM
#19
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From: saratoga, ca
I decided to start the project this weekend. i went to the shop yesterday and we attempted the break the nun loose on the rear axle.. the 3/4" breaker bar was a no go. the thing is 4ft long and all it did was make the car climb the 4x4 wood chauk. sure we could have jumped on it with someone pushing the brakes, but we just took a rattle gun to it.... heck, i should have done that at home with my nitrous bottle and my own rattle gun. anyway, its free and the hub is coming off tonight or tomorrow.
anyone know what the requirements for CFM are on the rattle gun so that i can do jobs like this in the future? i had up to 200psi, but have no idea what the bottle can flow with the lines attached.
Mk
anyway, its free and the hub is coming off tonight or tomorrow.anyone know what the requirements for CFM are on the rattle gun so that i can do jobs like this in the future? i had up to 200psi, but have no idea what the bottle can flow with the lines attached.
Mk
08-11-2017 | 01:30 PM
#20
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Neither does anyone else because no one would think of driving their impacts tools with NAWZ....
My IR 2131 will eventually remove an axle nut with 100 psi at the regulator, a short hose, and typical 1/4"" air fittings.
My IR 2131 will eventually remove an axle nut with 100 psi at the regulator, a short hose, and typical 1/4"" air fittings.
08-11-2017 | 01:51 PM
#21
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From: saratoga, ca
why not? guys at the track drive their air tools on bottles of nitrogen... so it must have been the setting on the rattle gun.. maybe not high enough. i have ability to drive it up to 500psi if i wanted. the regulator has fittings to fit the small air hose fittings, so that could have limited flow. NAWS is great! very compact and lots of pressure. the only draw back, is that the tool will get really cold if you use it too much /or too long.
so, the questions is if my fittings are normal 1/4" and i think they are.
mk
guys at the track drive their air tools on bottles of nitrogen... so it must have been the setting on the rattle gun.. maybe not high enough. i have ability to drive it up to 500psi if i wanted. the regulator has fittings to fit the small air hose fittings, so that could have limited flow. NAWS is great! very compact and lots of pressure. the only draw back, is that the tool will get really cold if you use it too much /or too long. so, the questions is if my fittings are normal 1/4" and i think they are.
mk
08-11-2017 | 03:57 PM
#22
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My IR 2131 makes no progress on a properly-tightened axle nut when connected to 100 PSI supply through 50' of 3/8" hose and 1/4" fittings. Maybe I'm using the wrong air-tool oil.
Mark --
For grins, look at the ratings for the gun and the connecting hoses. Common consumer air hoses have a burst rating at 300 PSI. When they come apart it's pretty violent, as you have a huge stored-energy supply in the tank. The guns are designed for a maximum pressure that doesn't throw the hammers through the aluminum motor casting. Nothing could possibly go wrong there with a few hundred PSI of air or NOS driving the pieces.
So....
Consider properly torquing the nuts on the axles so they aren't so tight. With the socket and bar on there its at about 20" from center with 200 MKBW pounds static on the horizontal bar. Shouldn't take a lot more to get it loose. And yes, you will usually need a foot on the brakes to hold the wheel from turning as you tighten or loosen the nut.
Mark --
For grins, look at the ratings for the gun and the connecting hoses. Common consumer air hoses have a burst rating at 300 PSI. When they come apart it's pretty violent, as you have a huge stored-energy supply in the tank. The guns are designed for a maximum pressure that doesn't throw the hammers through the aluminum motor casting. Nothing could possibly go wrong there with a few hundred PSI of air or NOS driving the pieces.
So....
Consider properly torquing the nuts on the axles so they aren't so tight. With the socket and bar on there its at about 20" from center with 200 MKBW pounds static on the horizontal bar. Shouldn't take a lot more to get it loose. And yes, you will usually need a foot on the brakes to hold the wheel from turning as you tighten or loosen the nut.
08-11-2017 | 05:13 PM
#23
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From: saratoga, ca
Sounds like a torque/Hp discussion right there, (analogously. )
yes, i know the gun could be damaged or worse, but the line pressure is rated at 300psi and i was below that. the only risk there was hurting the gun, (which is only for emergencies at the track or home as i dont have a proper air tool tank, just a small one for light jobs... at 130psi, the CFM rating of it barely turns the air gun. the NOS , on the other hand, with alll the pressure it can have, does quick work with bolts tightened to 100lbft etc.
your problem might be the gun.. if the hammers are not large enough, i would imagine it wouldnt budge the nut....... you know this, but after 30 years, im sure the nut is a little stuck. remember this is the original Holbert axle and nut. so, its no suprise it was a little tough to break loose. i calculate the lifting of the entire rear of the car, of near 1400lbs and a 3' bar and 1ft radus tire, being near 1400lbft stuck! anyway, gun made quick work of it.
yep, ill have a 1 foot breaker bar ill stand on to get it torqued. (200lb ft approx) then, put it on the 25" breaker bar and have my 150lb kid stand on. that will get me near 300lbft and then drive it to the shop for the digital torque wrench final tightening.
) yes, i know the gun could be damaged or worse, but the line pressure is rated at 300psi and i was below that. the only risk there was hurting the gun, (which is only for emergencies at the track or home as i dont have a proper air tool tank, just a small one for light jobs... at 130psi, the CFM rating of it barely turns the air gun.
the NOS , on the other hand, with alll the pressure it can have, does quick work with bolts tightened to 100lbft etc. your problem might be the gun.. if the hammers are not large enough, i would imagine it wouldnt budge the nut....... you know this, but after 30 years, im sure the nut is a little stuck. remember this is the original Holbert axle and nut. so, its no suprise it was a little tough to break loose. i calculate the lifting of the entire rear of the car, of near 1400lbs and a 3' bar and 1ft radus tire, being near 1400lbft stuck!
anyway, gun made quick work of it.yep, ill have a 1 foot breaker bar ill stand on to get it torqued. (200lb ft approx) then, put it on the 25" breaker bar and have my 150lb kid stand on. that will get me near 300lbft and then drive it to the shop for the digital torque wrench final tightening.
My IR 2131 makes no progress on a properly-tightened axle nut when connected to 100 PSI supply through 50' of 3/8" hose and 1/4" fittings. Maybe I'm using the wrong air-tool oil.
Mark --
For grins, look at the ratings for the gun and the connecting hoses. Common consumer air hoses have a burst rating at 300 PSI. When they come apart it's pretty violent, as you have a huge stored-energy supply in the tank. The guns are designed for a maximum pressure that doesn't throw the hammers through the aluminum motor casting. Nothing could possibly go wrong there with a few hundred PSI of air or NOS driving the pieces.
So....
Consider properly torquing the nuts on the axles so they aren't so tight. With the socket and bar on there its at about 20" from center with 200 MKBW pounds static on the horizontal bar. Shouldn't take a lot more to get it loose. And yes, you will usually need a foot on the brakes to hold the wheel from turning as you tighten or loosen the nut.
Mark --
For grins, look at the ratings for the gun and the connecting hoses. Common consumer air hoses have a burst rating at 300 PSI. When they come apart it's pretty violent, as you have a huge stored-energy supply in the tank. The guns are designed for a maximum pressure that doesn't throw the hammers through the aluminum motor casting. Nothing could possibly go wrong there with a few hundred PSI of air or NOS driving the pieces.
So....
Consider properly torquing the nuts on the axles so they aren't so tight. With the socket and bar on there its at about 20" from center with 200 MKBW pounds static on the horizontal bar. Shouldn't take a lot more to get it loose. And yes, you will usually need a foot on the brakes to hold the wheel from turning as you tighten or loosen the nut.
08-12-2017 | 04:04 PM
#24
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From: saratoga, ca
Yes, its the bearing. all the parts are very solid, very smooth feel, including the CV joints and all the seals.
splines are good... etc. BUT, this 30 year old bearing, raced for 17 years, has finally given up its life. over 250 racing hours .... amazing porsche design.
splines are good... etc. BUT, this 30 year old bearing, raced for 17 years, has finally given up its life. over 250 racing hours .... amazing porsche design.
08-12-2017 | 04:08 PM
#25
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From: saratoga, ca
VERY easy to pull hub carrier
I think there might be a good argument for taking the hub off the car, but i dont like the e-brake springs and parts. kind of a mess of little stuff to keep track of, but i think that alll needs to come out with the "on car method" too, right?
anyway, if so.........you undo one bolt at the lower control arm. 30 seconds.... then the upper control arm. 30 seconds . unscrew a couple nuts and bolts that hold the ABS stuff on , and the hub falls into your lap.
I have to imagine that is much faster than dealing with the 6 or so, CV joint bolts
anyway, its apart, bearing in the freezer and going to the shop to press this old bearing out and the new one in.........and put it back together.
ill check the aligment after i put it together, but i see no way in H that anything could change. that lower control arm is a beast and the upper has nice fit as well.
anyway, if so.........you undo one bolt at the lower control arm. 30 seconds.... then the upper control arm. 30 seconds . unscrew a couple nuts and bolts that hold the ABS stuff on , and the hub falls into your lap.
I have to imagine that is much faster than dealing with the 6 or so, CV joint bolts
anyway, its apart, bearing in the freezer and going to the shop to press this old bearing out and the new one in.........and put it back together.
ill check the aligment after i put it together, but i see no way in H that anything could change. that lower control arm is a beast and the upper has nice fit as well.
08-13-2017 | 04:29 PM
#26
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Quick question for the conservatives out there................i have it apart......i use bolt on spacers , which always makes me nervous! do i put on the longer studs since i have it apart so i can use the much more safe, slip on spacers ? (about 17mm as shown in the picture under the car) BUT, I dont know when ill be able to do the other side to match... I have a slip on spacer the same thickness as the bolt on spacer, also hub centric (stock 20ish mm spacer). can i run one side with longer studs and a slip on spacer and the other side with the bolt on spacer? i guess the only difference is the weight of the bolt on spacers studs and nuts to keep it in place. 1 lbs max... any other thoughts of a problem there?
08-14-2017 | 12:32 PM
#27
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i measured the weights of the bolt on spacer with its own studs and nuts vs a slip on spacer 3lbs vs 1.5lbs. i dont think that would make a huge difference to have them not matching for a few years, no? any objections? also, the bearing was in the freezer for 3 days (thought i would press this in on saturday, but no go) could that hurt it at all?
08-14-2017 | 01:07 PM
#28
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The extended cold won't hurt the bearing. No worries about freezer burn really.
On the extended lug bolts vs spacers: The difference in weight will make no difference on your car. Having extended studs means you can't readily use the Sir Tools extractor frame on that hub in the future. That may or may not be an issue for you then, you decide. FWIW, in the time it took you to disconnect the minor stuff like ABS sensors and the bolts through the suspension bits, you could have been back together and ready for caliper and wheel had you borrowed the Sir Tools press from Bill Ball. In his knowledgeable and experienced hands it takes maybe an hour to do the whole job, working slow. That's less time than you've spent typing posts about the job in this thread. Anyway, the long studs doom you to pressing the drive hub and bearing in and out every time. Were it me, I'd stick with the spacers.
On the extended lug bolts vs spacers: The difference in weight will make no difference on your car. Having extended studs means you can't readily use the Sir Tools extractor frame on that hub in the future. That may or may not be an issue for you then, you decide. FWIW, in the time it took you to disconnect the minor stuff like ABS sensors and the bolts through the suspension bits, you could have been back together and ready for caliper and wheel had you borrowed the Sir Tools press from Bill Ball. In his knowledgeable and experienced hands it takes maybe an hour to do the whole job, working slow. That's less time than you've spent typing posts about the job in this thread. Anyway, the long studs doom you to pressing the drive hub and bearing in and out every time. Were it me, I'd stick with the spacers.
08-14-2017 | 02:11 PM
#29
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Thanks... well, im doomed for complete disassembly for another 30 years until this bearing fails! (however, the other side will probably be needed to be changed in the next 10-20 years )
as far as time comparison. you forget you need to losen and remove all the axle bolts on the diff....i would bet i can get the hub off the car in shorter time, but at worst it would be a close bet...... however, i do agree, at that point being able to just pop out the bearing and replace, has its advantages. (no trip to the shop and back)
the spacers kind of scare me. if you think of all that force on the wheels being held by that piece of aluminum.......however, ive had no issues and have never heard of an issue with the bolt on spacers breaking. (20 years no issues) But, heck, while im in there, why not get rid of the extra 1.5lbs... the other thing is that i couldnt use Charlie's wheels when he graciously was offering me his street tires for a rain race... (they couldnt fit with the nuts on the spacers) so, it does give me rim flexibility in that one-in -a-hundred instance. and someday when the other side is replaced, ill put on the studs there too so they match.
thanks for the info on any problems the mismatch might make.. sound like its not a big deal... should be together tonight.
btw. if i had been able to reach Bill, i would have used that tool, but i was not able to make contact.
(however, the other side will probably be needed to be changed in the next 10-20 years ) as far as time comparison. you forget you need to losen and remove all the axle bolts on the diff....i would bet i can get the hub off the car in shorter time, but at worst it would be a close bet...... however, i do agree, at that point being able to just pop out the bearing and replace, has its advantages. (no trip to the shop and back)
the spacers kind of scare me. if you think of all that force on the wheels being held by that piece of aluminum.......however, ive had no issues and have never heard of an issue with the bolt on spacers breaking. (20 years no issues) But, heck, while im in there, why not get rid of the extra 1.5lbs...
the other thing is that i couldnt use Charlie's wheels when he graciously was offering me his street tires for a rain race... (they couldnt fit with the nuts on the spacers) so, it does give me rim flexibility in that one-in -a-hundred instance. and someday when the other side is replaced, ill put on the studs there too so they match.thanks for the info on any problems the mismatch might make.. sound like its not a big deal... should be together tonight.
btw. if i had been able to reach Bill, i would have used that tool, but i was not able to make contact.
The extended cold won't hurt the bearing. No worries about freezer burn really.
On the extended lug bolts vs spacers: The difference in weight will make no difference on your car. Having extended studs means you can't readily use the Sir Tools extractor frame on that hub in the future. That may or may not be an issue for you then, you decide. FWIW, in the time it took you to disconnect the minor stuff like ABS sensors and the bolts through the suspension bits, you could have been back together and ready for caliper and wheel had you borrowed the Sir Tools press from Bill Ball. In his knowledgeable and experienced hands it takes maybe an hour to do the whole job, working slow. That's less time than you've spent typing posts about the job in this thread. Anyway, the long studs doom you to pressing the drive hub and bearing in and out every time. Were it me, I'd stick with the spacers.
On the extended lug bolts vs spacers: The difference in weight will make no difference on your car. Having extended studs means you can't readily use the Sir Tools extractor frame on that hub in the future. That may or may not be an issue for you then, you decide. FWIW, in the time it took you to disconnect the minor stuff like ABS sensors and the bolts through the suspension bits, you could have been back together and ready for caliper and wheel had you borrowed the Sir Tools press from Bill Ball. In his knowledgeable and experienced hands it takes maybe an hour to do the whole job, working slow. That's less time than you've spent typing posts about the job in this thread. Anyway, the long studs doom you to pressing the drive hub and bearing in and out every time. Were it me, I'd stick with the spacers.
08-14-2017 | 03:30 PM
#30
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Thanks...
the spacers kind of scare me. if you think of all that force on the wheels being held by that piece of aluminum.......however, ive had no issues and have never heard of an issue with the bolt on spacers breaking. (20 years no issues) ........on any problems the mismatch might make.. sound like its not a big deal... should be together tonight.
the spacers kind of scare me. if you think of all that force on the wheels being held by that piece of aluminum.......however, ive had no issues and have never heard of an issue with the bolt on spacers breaking. (20 years no issues) ........on any problems the mismatch might make.. sound like its not a big deal... should be together tonight.
