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1/5 were the ones that showed the most wear on my engine with the "Taylor" drilled crank. 2/6 were the ones that gave out on my stock crank.
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George
90 S4 Grand Prix White (Murf #5 - 210 mph top speed)
94 GTS 5-Speed Midnight Blue
06 Cayenne S Havanna/Sand Beige (PASM) http://928.jorj7.com
For those following along at home, here's all you need to have a ball mike (about $15):
Or this (from McMaster), $4 plus ship.
No excuses, Andrew, buy a ball tip and make some measurements. Think of the knowledge base!
P.S. Can you wipe the oil off #1 and take a close-up? It is not looking so great either. Did you note which was the cap side?
Last edited by jcorenman; 07-29-2017 at 10:14 AM.
Reason: spelling
I've already put in the new bearings. Will start reassembly tonight. Might even have it running this weekend.
Andrew, you'll need to flush the debris out of the passageways the best you can. Get some dino-oil and run the engine. Cut the filter to see what it looks like. If there is some debris, put another filter on, top-off the oil and rerun the engine.
When the filter is clean, drain the oil and put in your favorite track oil.
I got replacement rod nuts yesterday, and got them installed. Oil pan is 90% back on , but then I have everything else that needs to be put back in place. Will update as soon as it's back on it's feet and running. We have the SHarks in Hell weekend this weekend, so probably won't have much to report until Monday or Tuesday. Have a local track event Friday next week, so I'm hoping everything gets done by then.
Originally Posted by SeanR
And here's a great tool for opening up those filters, for those playing at home.
Cool tool, but these Canton Oil filters that are used with the accusump don't lend themselves to this kind of opening. See pic here. Ends are glued on, but the main seam is a bugger to get apart. Unfortunately the element is also "captured" so it's hard to slip out.
Have a really good look at the con rod ends for that cylinder. My experience for spinning bearings over the years is the they always deposit material (metal) on the rod and then when you are trying to install the new bearings it they will not fit but yours look like they barely spun at all so maybe you got extremely lucky and there was no transfer of material from the bearing to the rod. If that's the case, consider yourself extremely lucky.
Got it all back together yesterday and fired her up with the cheap stuff from Wally World. It sounds very smooth. I want to drive it a bit to flush the system. Then drain and refill with Amsoil.
Still need to find the original chip (or burn a new one) and get the EZF back to original timing specs. Then hopefully this will all be behind me. Will continue to post about the old bearings as soon as I have time. Have a track day this Friday that I need to get prepared for first...
This car has Ken's S3 chips in it, and it was VERY hot at Pitt Race. Because this car does not have knock sensors, I think it is possible that the timing chip is too aggressive and causing knock that the engine cannot handle (in extreme situations).
Originally Posted by davek9
Andrew if you have the stock Air-box temp sensor connected (and its working
It will pull out 3 deg's of timing at WOT if/when intake air Temp goes up.
FWIW, S300s chips have a rescaled air-temp-retard map with all the cells dedicated to hot temps and there is more aggressive retard than stock between hot and very hot. (Which is why S3s can be difficult to dyno unless you keep the intake air cool, stock or w/S300s.)
It might be good to have the injectors flow-checked/cleaned, especially #5?
07-28-2017, 10:56 PM
