Geo55

So I pulled the cap from the flappy valve and put the marker line on it but when I started the car the line did not turn. I put the Mityvac on it and it started to move at 2 in. and held fast. So I checked the voltage across the plug and read 0 volts. I grounded each connector on the plug and got 12 v on one. so I tested the solenoid by applying 12 v and the solenoid functions. Seems that I have a ground problem. Any Ideas on running this down? Possibly a broken wire? I see that it runs into the harness next to the fuel damper. Any incites would be appreciated

worf928

Seems more like you have a vacuum problem. Double check that all of the vacuums lines to the solenoid are connected correctly. Check that the source line from the vacuum reservoir passes vacuum. Check that the check valve for the reservoir is connected in the right direction.

Every single flappy problem I've ever encountered is due to either vaccum line issues or the vacuum actuator under the plenum and 9 out of 10 are line issues.

Geo55

Hi Dave, thanks for the help. I have spent some time on this and have double checked that the lines are hooked up properly (which they weren't at first). Vacuum was low Its seems that I have a leak under in the HVAC. But I applied vacuum to the line from the 4way to the solenoid and started the car. The flappy did not move. I bypassed the solenoid with the available vacuum and the flappy opened. So I applied 12v to the solenoid from the jump post and a ground and it worked. What do you think?

Geo55

Sorry Dave, Yes the check valve at the booster is oriented in the right direction and pulls about 20 inches. I pumped down the reservoir and it to holds vacuum.

worf928

I think your next step should be to follow the directions on page 26 of my inspection guide and test the solenoid from the LH ECU. (Link in my signature below.)

Geo55

Will do Dave. Thank you.

Geo55

Dave, Thanks lot. I had downloaded and printed your inspection guide a couple of months ago but had not read through it thoroughly. But I did have continuity from the plug to the solenoid. Used Deoxit since I was there and reconnected. Fired it up and that little green magic marker line turned 90 degrees and back. Thanks for your help. Was thinking I was going to have to send out my stuff out to be rebuilt. And thanks for the inspection guide.

worf928

So, basically: crufty harness connection to the solenoid?

Geo55

I think so Dave, I just cleaned up the connector to the solenoid after I found it working just to make sure that wouldn't be a problem in the future. Kind of off topic but I put rebuilt 4 hole injectors from Roger in and they make quite a ticking noise. Wasn't sure what the noise was so I used my stethoscope and every one makes that noise. I don't remember the old OEM ones making that noise. Is that normal.

worf928

It is normal for the injectors to make a ticking noise. The insulated fuel rail covers are there to quiet them down. Post-'89 (IIRC) the insulation is moulded into the covers. On yours the rail covers are 'empty' thin plastic and the insulation is (likely, long gone) heat resistant high density black foam that was just wrapped around the rails.

Geo55

Thanks Dave, I couldn't remember the old ones making the noise. I had put insulation on from a post that Dwayne did with some pipe insulation tube but it just covers the fuel line. Guess I am now just more sensitive to the sound. Thanks again.

Geo55

You can see it on this photo. I trimmed the other side square toi fit under better