turbo bolt
turbo bolt
03-20-2003, 11:18 AM
#2
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
3 very expensive ones. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
They appear to be M10x25 studs to hold it to the exh manifold, M10x28 to hold the exhaust downpipe to the turbo, and M8x35 to hold the turbo to the support bracket. However, it only shows 2 studs for the exh manifold connection, so perhaps the third is a bolt?
Make sure to use copper exhaust nuts. I recall hearing about one individual who had to take apart a turbo that was installed with nyloc nuts... not pretty...
They appear to be M10x25 studs to hold it to the exh manifold, M10x28 to hold the exhaust downpipe to the turbo, and M8x35 to hold the turbo to the support bracket. However, it only shows 2 studs for the exh manifold connection, so perhaps the third is a bolt?
Make sure to use copper exhaust nuts. I recall hearing about one individual who had to take apart a turbo that was installed with nyloc nuts... not pretty...
03-20-2003, 01:34 PM
#5
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Oh, you mean what kind of bit to use to take them off? I thought I had some standard Allen bolts in there, but there is a 12-point type of bolt-head that is called a "triple-square" bit - this is also used on the CV bolts, commonly through Porsches. You can buy bits for this from a good tool store - not sure if Canadian Tire would have them, but Sears Hardware (if you've got it up there) or a VW parts place should have them.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Trending Topics
03-21-2003, 02:21 AM
#8
Banned
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Waterloo, ON
Posts: 776
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
J'ai juste eu ma tubulure outre de ma voiture, et le turbo. Les trois boulons m'ont coûté $60 par morceau, comme j'ai noté plus tôt. Maintenant, vous mieux êtes conseillés de payer les $60 et de ne pas essayer de substituer avec n'importe quel autre type de boulon. Pourquoi? Puisque la dureté du boulon n'est pas montrée sur le boulon, vous ne pouvez pas n'assortir la dureté de boulon avec aucun boulon manufacturé. Par conséquent, vous ne pouvez pas appliquer les spécifications appropriées au boulon.
Un problème commun est la tubulure (exhaust manifold) courbera, ou warp. J'ai le 1980 et Vaughan est un 1981/1982, ainsi il a eu la tubulure améliorée d'échappement. Il peut être fixe. Ou payez $1551,78 CAD nouveaux. Ma suggestion est vous devrait maintenant vérifier votre tubulure est parfaitement droite par un machiniste. Et fixez-le. Juste une attention...
Un problème commun est la tubulure (exhaust manifold) courbera, ou warp. J'ai le 1980 et Vaughan est un 1981/1982, ainsi il a eu la tubulure améliorée d'échappement. Il peut être fixe. Ou payez $1551,78 CAD nouveaux. Ma suggestion est vous devrait maintenant vérifier votre tubulure est parfaitement droite par un machiniste. Et fixez-le. Juste une attention...
03-21-2003, 05:12 AM
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Québec, Canada
Posts: 325
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My bolts are fines (for the moment) they still in place, I just wanted to know how to remove them without breaking them...
I'm trying to change the manifold gasket because I notice a leek before the turbo. But since you talk about failure, I'll check the manifold for crack.
Tanks
I'm trying to change the manifold gasket because I notice a leek before the turbo. But since you talk about failure, I'll check the manifold for crack.
Tanks
03-21-2003, 08:36 AM
#10
Banned
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Waterloo, ON
Posts: 776
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Precisely. These earlier manifolds either (a) warped or (b) cracked.
The by product?
If they warp, then of course you will see exhaust gas leaking out. This can happen especially when the manifold has been welded. On mine, it was on the two middle exhaust ports.
Else, they crack.
But the worse by product is this: As the manifold warps, it MUST change the position of the downpipe where the turbo hooks up, and that places incredible force on the turbo hook up areas, pulling the turbo away. You can catch either oil leak or exhaust issues near the turbo.
My machinist did two things
1. Planed the manifold where it meets up with the gaskets ($100) and
2. Built up the surface so that it continues to meet up exactly with the turbo again. $50 Then
3. Replaned, $100.
No guarantees on this procedure. Inspect it for cracks. And if you have a crack, remember, welding that crack is going to make the manifold warp or crack again, because the expansion rates of the weld and the cast iron are probably not going to be the same. I have three manifolds, all are either cracked or warped.
Note: If (2) is not done, you 'can' get them to fit, but it is a mistake to use push and pull to get it into place, or to use the torque of the bolt to make things fit. It 'should' be built up again to spec.
The later manifolds were far superior.
Oh!
1. Do not re-use ANY of the bolts, even the manifold bolts. Used bolts won't have the same qualities as new ones.
If your supply source is honest and not a Porsche dealer, s/he can fit you with Porsche bolts perhaps less than Porsche, but in the end, he still will be getting these bolts from a Porsche warehouse, at wholesale cost. Whether he passes that savings on to you is dependent on his own markup. The wholesale-retail ratio I found after having a peek at his packing slip on the parts box was roughly 1:3.
The by product?
If they warp, then of course you will see exhaust gas leaking out. This can happen especially when the manifold has been welded. On mine, it was on the two middle exhaust ports.
Else, they crack.
But the worse by product is this: As the manifold warps, it MUST change the position of the downpipe where the turbo hooks up, and that places incredible force on the turbo hook up areas, pulling the turbo away. You can catch either oil leak or exhaust issues near the turbo.
My machinist did two things
1. Planed the manifold where it meets up with the gaskets ($100) and
2. Built up the surface so that it continues to meet up exactly with the turbo again. $50 Then
3. Replaned, $100.
No guarantees on this procedure. Inspect it for cracks. And if you have a crack, remember, welding that crack is going to make the manifold warp or crack again, because the expansion rates of the weld and the cast iron are probably not going to be the same. I have three manifolds, all are either cracked or warped.
Note: If (2) is not done, you 'can' get them to fit, but it is a mistake to use push and pull to get it into place, or to use the torque of the bolt to make things fit. It 'should' be built up again to spec.
The later manifolds were far superior.
Oh!
1. Do not re-use ANY of the bolts, even the manifold bolts. Used bolts won't have the same qualities as new ones.
If your supply source is honest and not a Porsche dealer, s/he can fit you with Porsche bolts perhaps less than Porsche, but in the end, he still will be getting these bolts from a Porsche warehouse, at wholesale cost. Whether he passes that savings on to you is dependent on his own markup. The wholesale-retail ratio I found after having a peek at his packing slip on the parts box was roughly 1:3.
03-21-2003, 11:16 AM
#11
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
One more thing to be aware of, there are some notes in the factory Parts and Technical Bulletin (I think I have a link to it in the Tech Section on 924.org) about updating seals on the manifold to the newer style... it's one of the Tech Bulletins...
The Parts and Tech Reference is basically a catalog of common parts and the Tech Bulletins. Available from the Porsche dealer.
<img src="http://www.924.org/parts/PartsPics/PNA000147A_small.JPG" alt=" - " />
Ah yes, we do have some of the info online here, Tech Bulletin #5:
<a href="http://www.924.org/techsection/931_turbo.htm" target="_blank">http://www.924.org/techsection/931_turbo.htm</a>
I don't know how much this relates to what you need to do, but more information is always good, IMO.
The Parts and Tech Reference is basically a catalog of common parts and the Tech Bulletins. Available from the Porsche dealer.
<img src="http://www.924.org/parts/PartsPics/PNA000147A_small.JPG" alt=" - " />
Ah yes, we do have some of the info online here, Tech Bulletin #5:
<a href="http://www.924.org/techsection/931_turbo.htm" target="_blank">http://www.924.org/techsection/931_turbo.htm</a>
I don't know how much this relates to what you need to do, but more information is always good, IMO.
03-24-2003, 03:33 AM
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Québec, Canada
Posts: 325
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
WOHOO!!!
Succes! the 3 bolt are gone... but I have tried to pull out the manifold, there's a oil pipe comming from the oil pan and the turbo that I have to remove GRRRRRRR....
And other question... HOW DO YOU REMOVE A STUCK VALVE SPRING... I only got 2 on 8... I tap them with a plastic hammer, but I dont want to brake the valve guide.
Any help!
Succes! the 3 bolt are gone... but I have tried to pull out the manifold, there's a oil pipe comming from the oil pan and the turbo that I have to remove GRRRRRRR....
And other question... HOW DO YOU REMOVE A STUCK VALVE SPRING... I only got 2 on 8... I tap them with a plastic hammer, but I dont want to brake the valve guide.
Any help!
03-28-2003, 03:31 PM
#13
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Yeah, I had to hit my valves pretty hard (I think I just flat out used a hammer, metal, not plastic) last time around to get the springs and retainers to loosen up. Hit them hard! Just make sure you hit them straight!
Good luck...
Good luck...
04-01-2003, 11:02 AM
#15
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
You still have the head on the car, right?
Bummer about the manifold, I hear that problem is not uncommon. You may be best off having a good exhaust/race shop fabricate you a new one from raw materials, if you can't find a good used one. Still should cross-check against the price of a new one from Porsche.
Good luck...
Bummer about the manifold, I hear that problem is not uncommon. You may be best off having a good exhaust/race shop fabricate you a new one from raw materials, if you can't find a good used one. Still should cross-check against the price of a new one from Porsche.
Good luck...