How-to: Proper Budget Rear Coilover - Page 3 - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums

Notices

How-to: Proper Budget Rear Coilover

 
 
Old 06-04-2013, 04:16 PM
  #31  
Butters944
Today I got
My Custom Title
Rennlist Member
 
Butters944's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Las Cruces NM (NMSU) / Fountain Hills AZ (home)
Posts: 4,855
Default

Thanks much MAGK, figured you could answer my questions. So 300# rear with tortion delete would be a lil stiffer than stock and match my current 200# up front nicely? Did some researching, I don't think I've ever seen somebody do a torsion delete with less than 400#?
Butters944 is offline  
Old 06-04-2013, 04:42 PM
  #32  
CyCloNe!
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
CyCloNe!'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Virginia Beach, VA 23464
Posts: 3,224
Default

I'm thinking about this method but will probably delete the TB and run 550lb springs in the rear, I have 300 up front.
CyCloNe! is offline  
Old 06-04-2013, 04:59 PM
  #33  
GTSilver944
User
 
GTSilver944's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Portland, ME
Posts: 724
Default

Originally Posted by Butters944 View Post
Thanks much MAGK, figured you could answer my questions. So 300# rear with tortion delete would be a lil stiffer than stock and match my current 200# up front nicely? Did some researching, I don't think I've ever seen somebody do a torsion delete with less than 400#?
Search for Van's post on calculating spring rate on torsion bars vs coilovers, quite a good explanation.
GTSilver944 is offline  
Old 06-04-2013, 05:17 PM
  #34  
MAGK944
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
MAGK944's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Palm Beach, Florida
Posts: 5,216
Default

Originally Posted by GTSilver944 View Post
Search for Van's post on calculating spring rate on torsion bars vs coilovers, quite a good explanation.
+1 Van has a lot more real world experience than I do. Plus what works out in theory doesn't always have the desired results in practice.

I'm running 200F/350R coilovers on one of my (street) cars and it works for me but I only have one comparison to go by, the rest is theory.
MAGK944 is offline  
Old 06-04-2013, 05:17 PM
  #35  
Butters944
Today I got
My Custom Title
Rennlist Member
 
Butters944's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Las Cruces NM (NMSU) / Fountain Hills AZ (home)
Posts: 4,855
Default

Can't find vans post
Butters944 is offline  
Old 06-05-2013, 11:10 PM
  #36  
RoyaleWithCheese
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
RoyaleWithCheese's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 278
Default

Has there been an update from robstahs suspension part 2 thread?

https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...-part-2-a.html

I searched around but didn't see any details on how the torsion bar delete worked with those coils.

I'm planning on building some of these soon but if I could do a torsion bar delete I would much prefer that over a TB/coil combo. Aside from the custom spacer, it doesn't look like that would cost much more than the coil build in this thread.
RoyaleWithCheese is offline  
Old 06-05-2013, 11:23 PM
  #37  
admiralkhole
User
 
admiralkhole's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,044
Default

Originally Posted by jharding View Post
Yes, early 944 steel arm has been figured out. I assume you are talking rear suspension. I have the coil-over kits, springs, and an entire torsion bar delete rear carrier that will fit an early 944. Or you can get just the early shock coil-over kits from me and buy lower spring rate springs to use with your current torsion bars. Although I don't know what the advantage of keeping your torsion bars is, as you'll still only get to lower as far as the eccentric will let you without re-indexing the torsion bars.

But, back to the program. PM me if interested in the coil-overs and/or torsion carrier. I used that set up for years in DE. The car handled great.
I shot you a PM about early coils, if you didn't get it could you please message me some info? Thanks!
admiralkhole is offline  
Old 06-06-2013, 08:53 PM
  #38  
Butters944
Today I got
My Custom Title
Rennlist Member
 
Butters944's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Las Cruces NM (NMSU) / Fountain Hills AZ (home)
Posts: 4,855
Default

Wait, so the original posted guide will work on an early car won't it? Since you're modifying a strut that will fit, the whole idea can work on any year 944, right?

Also I'm gonna leave an earlier thread on this topic here for future reference.

https://rennlist.com/rennforums/showthread.php?t=695547
Butters944 is offline  
Old 06-13-2013, 04:42 PM
  #39  
SpeedyC2
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
SpeedyC2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: NC
Posts: 944
Default

Great write, and thread!

I have a couple of questions, if you don't mind.

First: I currently have the Koni sports on my S2, with the adjustable-height struts up front (200-lb. springs) and sports shocks in the rear. It seemed one of the posts noted it wouldn't be a good idea to run the Koni's up front and the Bilsteins in the rear. Did I read that right? Different valving, I guess?

Second: I may be completely mis-understanding how the forces on these coilovers act, but it seems to me the force of the spring is acting on the bottom perch, which is attached to the threaded sleeve, which is all sitting on the snap ring. Do I have that right? And if I do, is there no worry about the snap ring failing? (There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of area there.)

Thanks for any/all information!
SpeedyC2 is offline  
Old 06-13-2013, 07:50 PM
  #40  
Butters944
Today I got
My Custom Title
Rennlist Member
 
Butters944's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Las Cruces NM (NMSU) / Fountain Hills AZ (home)
Posts: 4,855
Default

I'm wondering the same^
Butters944 is offline  
Old 06-13-2013, 08:33 PM
  #41  
mikey_audiogeek
User
 
mikey_audiogeek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Northland, New Zealand
Posts: 1,543
Default

Originally Posted by SpeedyS2 View Post
Great write, and thread!

I have a couple of questions, if you don't mind.

First: I currently have the Koni sports on my S2, with the adjustable-height struts up front (200-lb. springs) and sports shocks in the rear. It seemed one of the posts noted it wouldn't be a good idea to run the Koni's up front and the Bilsteins in the rear. Did I read that right? Different valving, I guess?

Second: I may be completely mis-understanding how the forces on these coilovers act, but it seems to me the force of the spring is acting on the bottom perch, which is attached to the threaded sleeve, which is all sitting on the snap ring. Do I have that right? And if I do, is there no worry about the snap ring failing? (There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of area there.)

Thanks for any/all information!
Snap ring is standard practice for Bilstein coilovers. Nothing to worry about.

Cheers,
Mike
mikey_audiogeek is offline  
Old 07-15-2013, 06:36 PM
  #42  
Butters944
Today I got
My Custom Title
Rennlist Member
 
Butters944's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Las Cruces NM (NMSU) / Fountain Hills AZ (home)
Posts: 4,855
Default

Originally Posted by RoyaleWithCheese View Post
Has there been an update from robstahs suspension part 2 thread?

https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...-part-2-a.html

I searched around but didn't see any details on how the torsion bar delete worked with those coils.

I'm planning on building some of these soon but if I could do a torsion bar delete I would much prefer that over a TB/coil combo. Aside from the custom spacer, it doesn't look like that would cost much more than the coil build in this thread.
Bump... Robstah can we get an update on your torsion delete setup?
Butters944 is offline  
Old 10-04-2013, 12:04 PM
  #43  
NineFourFourNeophyte
User
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 98
Default

hello,
i came across this write up and without any doubt it is great and shows our ability to innovate - great job!

now i'm going to spoil a good with something ridiculous ...

i'm looking to do this, but can't seem to understand or get around this as stated above ...

"I wish Bilstein would get their act together and make front struts for the later cars (87+.) ..." Justin S2

What do i do if i want bilsteins all around? what is the solution for the front struts?
since i don't have them physically, can bilstein front inserts they be put in another brand of struts or a hack similar to the koni coilover hacks?

any feedback is appreciated.

thanks.
NineFourFourNeophyte is offline  
Old 11-27-2013, 01:47 AM
  #44  
Alpineace
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
Alpineace's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: denver
Posts: 704
Default

for give me if I missed it, but if you have Konis on the rear can this still work?
Also, why dont they just put a lip on the top of the threaded body instead so it can just sit on top of the shock body? then just bond it on.

also If my car weighs 2300lbs, what would be a reasonable rate for the rear(with TB delete) if the fronts are 300?
Alpineace is offline  
Old 11-27-2013, 08:03 AM
  #45  
admiralkhole
User
 
admiralkhole's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,044
Default

Originally Posted by Alpineace View Post
for give me if I missed it, but if you have Konis on the rear can this still work?
Also, why dont they just put a lip on the top of the threaded body instead so it can just sit on top of the shock body? then just bond it on.

also If my car weighs 2300lbs, what would be a reasonable rate for the rear(with TB delete) if the fronts are 300?
No, Konis won't work...the shock body is too big. You need 1 7/8" (1.875?) ID springs to fit, it gets tight near the upper mount...bilstein shocks are 36mm I believe, and I want to say konis are around 44. Using a lip on the thread sleeve would give you a very limited amount of adjustability because they aren't very long, plus it would require permanent removal of the dust cap. I have my threaded sleeve about an inch or so above the bottom while running 10" springs, works well and I have great adjustability.
As for spring rate on your setup, I would go with 400 on the rear without the tbs, I'm running 400 with torsion bars in my street car and it's pretty stiff, but hey, it's my fun car and not daily. Next weekend I will be deleting my tb's and running the 400's with my 300 in the front...until I go to 5 in the front, then I have a set of 600 for the rear. I have talked to others running coils all the way around and they like 100lbs more in the rear, seems to get rid of any understeer.
admiralkhole is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us About Us Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.