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Has anyone used a quick jack lift on a 944 series car? I worry about the jack points not being hit. If you have, did it give you a lot of room to work etc.?
I'm sure it would be fine regarding hitting the appropriate jacking points, but Quickjack won't get the car up quite high enough to drop the engine, will it?
I bought the 5k version and having them makes the car so much easier to work on. Totally stable. Can even run the car while on them. No purchase regrets.
They hit the rear points fine, but not the "preferred" front points. For the fronts they hit the "pucks" that hang down just behind the firewall. I've been using those points and haven't had any issues. I think as long as you don't try and lift the entire car from those points, it is fine.
As far as getting the car up high enough, I think they get it about 22-24 inches off the floor.
They are not good for removing the rear suspension since they are in the way the torsion bar and its mount points to the body.
There is a lot of room under the car with a creeper and I feel more comfortable under them than a set of jack stands at the same height. You could do a clutch job with them and be fine. There have been a couple of times where rolling off the creeper gave me more leverage on something, but I do have somewhat long arms.
While a two post lift or a pit is nice, I feel the QJ's are the next best thing for those of us who don't have the space.
I always found jack stands to be a pain. Jack one side, set the stands, let the car down and repeat on the other side. Setup on the QJ's is super easy. I found the best spot for them is about 1/2 to 1 inch in front of the rear tire and the sides just over the edge of the lower rocker panels. Less than 5 minutes to get them setup and the car in the air.
They are not cheap, but if you have the cash available, buy a set. It was a gamble in my mind to try them. First time I used them and got under the car I thought "where have these things been the last two years???". Added bonus is using them to do things like belt changes and such under the hood. No bending way over to reach things since the car is so low. I have to use a stool to look for TDC on the flywheel when the car is in the air and I'm 6 feet tall.
With the right adapters they will also lift trucks and SUV's. Last I looked they were working on a motorcycle lift table for them as well.
My only (very) minor complaint is not being able to use them for dropping the rear suspension, but given how handy they are for everything else I don't even really consider it an issue.
I just got my Quickjack 3500, the smallest model. So far I really like it. Here it is under my 924S.
WIth the smaller lift blocks that come with the Quickjack I got 10 extra inches under the car (for a total of 17" under the front spoiler and a couple more in the rear), with the lift blocks stacked another 3 inches is added.
I also was able to make some lift bars that allow me to lift my 928 with the model 3500. My '78 928 is a couple of hundred pounds under the limit of 3500. https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...a-928-a-2.html
I got the 3500 because my Porsches are my big cars, otherwise I work on my girlfriend's Yaris and similar size vehicles.
Posting for others that may be interested in getting this equipment. Makes things alot easier to work under. Cant believe I didnt buy this sooner. This model is the 5000TL, an updated verision and goes up 24" and supports 5000lbs. Showing height of each safety lock.
Herein lies the issue with QJs--you have to use the floorboards to lift the front, not the rails as per owner's manual, workshop manual, and numerous people with unfortunate experience of having the floorboards fail. My car came with both floorboard points pushed up and clear damage on the fenders from hoist lift arms that ended up holding the car, not the arm ends.
You may never experience this, but I for one would never lift at these points.
From the owner's manual (left pic is front, right is rear):
I ended up buying a set and they are wonderful overall. I bought hockey pucks to put on the front jacking points. They seem to support it better than the rubber blocks.
I bought hockey pucks to put on the front jacking points.
Those aren't jacking points. My understanding is that these were body supports for the assembly line dollies. Officially, the front jacking points are the inboard frame rails
Those aren't jacking points. My understanding is that these were body supports for the assembly line dollies. Officially, the front jacking points are the inboard frame rails
For my race car, I use a low profile jack with hockey puck to raise LH and RH sides. The jack lift point is about at the door handle so the hockey puck is at the inside edge of the rocker panel. Those 4 lift points can used for jack stands that have a circular flat pad with rubber insert to place the lift point on. A repair shop would use those lift points for the hyfraulic 4 point lift
When I got my '83 the inside frame rails were heavily damaged from guys jacking on them. So my buddy and I made new 16 gauge "covers" for them and welded them into place. So far they have been very nice to use on his two poster lift with rubber covers over the jack pads..We use the rear hinge supports (boxed area)for the rear trailing arms as rear jack points. The rocker panel original points look a bit disarrayed and presumed to be tender due to age. I like the provisions that the QJ allows...TIA..
Someone here once posted a pic that showed these cars on the assembly line, drivetrain installed (full weight) being supported at these supposed incorrect lift points. It seems to be that you can support the car there just when lifting at four points, as on a four-point lift. The problems arise when you stick a floor jack under it and try and lift it at that single point. I had my own car supported at the front outboard locations on my Bendpac scissor lift for months with zero problems.
07-16-2017, 10:38 AM
Quick jack
