Coolant Question
11-21-2003, 11:24 PM
#1
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Coolant Question
’88 951S – My dad was checking the coolant on his car and described it as this:
Coolant resembles the color of conventional motor oil, yet has the liquid and clear fluid looking properties of “regular” coolant. I have never seen an off color of coolant like this ever before. I have no idea of when the coolant was last flushed and renewed, but the appearance of it really concerns me right now. Is there such a product available that comes in a strange color like this, or does this coolant represent spent coolant that has been neglected. If neglected, what affect would this have on other components such as the water pump and radiator? I drew some of this coolant up in a syringe, inspected it, then added 30W Castrol to the sampled coolant. At that point, it was clear that oil was present in the mix(the sampled mix after I added oil to it to make sure what I sampled wasn’t oil), with obvious mismatch of oil and water/coolant, sort of like Italian salad dressing. That helped dampen my concern, but I would like to hear from others who may have seen this before.
Thanks
Mike
Coolant resembles the color of conventional motor oil, yet has the liquid and clear fluid looking properties of “regular” coolant. I have never seen an off color of coolant like this ever before. I have no idea of when the coolant was last flushed and renewed, but the appearance of it really concerns me right now. Is there such a product available that comes in a strange color like this, or does this coolant represent spent coolant that has been neglected. If neglected, what affect would this have on other components such as the water pump and radiator? I drew some of this coolant up in a syringe, inspected it, then added 30W Castrol to the sampled coolant. At that point, it was clear that oil was present in the mix(the sampled mix after I added oil to it to make sure what I sampled wasn’t oil), with obvious mismatch of oil and water/coolant, sort of like Italian salad dressing. That helped dampen my concern, but I would like to hear from others who may have seen this before.
Thanks
Mike
11-22-2003, 01:47 AM
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Originally posted by josephsc
I've never seen it myself, but sounds like a really bad case of the infamous oil cooler leak!
I've never seen it myself, but sounds like a really bad case of the infamous oil cooler leak!
11-22-2003, 01:48 AM
#4
Three Wheelin'
Could it be one of those "leak stopping" additives? If so much oil went into the coolant, the oil level should be really low. Maybe it mixed with rust in the system.
I would just flush it, if it turns the same color again then something is wrong.
I would just flush it, if it turns the same color again then something is wrong.
11-22-2003, 01:54 AM
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You're not necessarily going to see a large amount of oil loss. A little oil goes a long way! At least that was my experience when the seals went on my '86.
The stop leak theory is an idea also, although I used this in my daily driver over 2 years ago and the coolant remaind the same color to this day (just ck it last weekend). It was just a smidgen' of a shade darker but definately not a different color.
The stop leak theory is an idea also, although I used this in my daily driver over 2 years ago and the coolant remaind the same color to this day (just ck it last weekend). It was just a smidgen' of a shade darker but definately not a different color.
11-22-2003, 11:33 AM
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You might make sure someone has not used the new DexCool coolant. Spectacular performance, VERY expensive, BUT the stuff is brown. Usually when it is put in, they put a sticker near the cap that explains the color is normally brown.
The definative check for the oil in coolant (the more likely case) is the mousse on the bottom of the pressure cap. As well, you might see (in the really bad cases) white condensate on the bottom of the oil fill cap.
If you think about the process, the oil pressure is usually higher than the cooant pressure. 15-45 PSI for the oil. 2-15 PSI for the coolant. EXCEPT when shut down warm. THEN 2-15 PSI for the coolant, 0 PSI for the oil.
When running, the higher pressure oil is passing into the coolant (thru the damaged cooler seals, or the head gasket).
When shut down, the higher pressure coolant is passing into the oil (or the cylinders if a head gasket).
The next start (if no hydrolock, and successful) the oil temps will evaporate or even boil most of the coolant, leaving the residual stuff on the oil cap.
The coolant in the oil may damage bearings and journals, and become very expensive very quickly.
Even after doing the oil cooler seal repair, there will be several flushes of the coolant resevoir over the span of a couple of months to get all of the oil out of it. The oil gets trapped in all of the coolant passages that it 'floated' into.
Pay attention to the bottom of your coolant pressure caps gang!
The definative check for the oil in coolant (the more likely case) is the mousse on the bottom of the pressure cap. As well, you might see (in the really bad cases) white condensate on the bottom of the oil fill cap.
If you think about the process, the oil pressure is usually higher than the cooant pressure. 15-45 PSI for the oil. 2-15 PSI for the coolant. EXCEPT when shut down warm. THEN 2-15 PSI for the coolant, 0 PSI for the oil.
When running, the higher pressure oil is passing into the coolant (thru the damaged cooler seals, or the head gasket).
When shut down, the higher pressure coolant is passing into the oil (or the cylinders if a head gasket).
The next start (if no hydrolock, and successful) the oil temps will evaporate or even boil most of the coolant, leaving the residual stuff on the oil cap.
The coolant in the oil may damage bearings and journals, and become very expensive very quickly.
Even after doing the oil cooler seal repair, there will be several flushes of the coolant resevoir over the span of a couple of months to get all of the oil out of it. The oil gets trapped in all of the coolant passages that it 'floated' into.
Pay attention to the bottom of your coolant pressure caps gang!