Lift Points......Again
#1
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Lift Points......Again
My front chassis rails are really beat up and I am going to cut and replace the affected areas. I'd like not to use them again once they are fixed.
We've all seen the picture on the right and know not to lift the car from the obvious front lifting points right behind the a-arm and next to the rocker.
We also know the factory used those front lift points that we are all told not to use, as can be seen on the picture on the left.
Finally we know that those front lift points are susceptible to corrosion and there are instances on this forum when they are known to have collapsed.
Sooooo, if they are not corroded but solid like new, tell me why I shouldn't use them.
Maybe the factory used some sort of an adapter to better support the lift at those points. I cannot tell from the picture but if they did does anyone have a picture of the adapter?
We've all seen the picture on the right and know not to lift the car from the obvious front lifting points right behind the a-arm and next to the rocker.
We also know the factory used those front lift points that we are all told not to use, as can be seen on the picture on the left.
Finally we know that those front lift points are susceptible to corrosion and there are instances on this forum when they are known to have collapsed.
Sooooo, if they are not corroded but solid like new, tell me why I shouldn't use them.
Maybe the factory used some sort of an adapter to better support the lift at those points. I cannot tell from the picture but if they did does anyone have a picture of the adapter?
#2
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
YMMV but i've never seen or heard of those points collapsing.
i typically use those "do not use" spots to lift all 944s I work on, mine or otherwise, since i only have a baby jack and it doesn't really reach the crossmember from the front.
as far as the rails, mine were pretty beat up too so i got some steel u-channel probably 2.5" x 0.25" (2" inside) or whatever the nearest size to the frame rails was, ground off the undercoating and welded the channel to the existing rail and then re-coated it. invincible now.
i typically use those "do not use" spots to lift all 944s I work on, mine or otherwise, since i only have a baby jack and it doesn't really reach the crossmember from the front.
as far as the rails, mine were pretty beat up too so i got some steel u-channel probably 2.5" x 0.25" (2" inside) or whatever the nearest size to the frame rails was, ground off the undercoating and welded the channel to the existing rail and then re-coated it. invincible now.
#3
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
I saw one a while back on here or Pelican where the front collapsed into the floor pan. Iirc it was quite corroded so that may have been a contributing factor. I've always lifted from the chassis rails so as not to chance it even though mine are solid.
Your previous post was noted, using the "u" channel repair and that's what I'm doing now with some 929motorsports style strengthening channel over the top to finish just in case I need to place a stand there in the future.
I still think the factory used something else, an adapter of sorts, that fitted around and inside those front lift points, for added strength while lifting. Cannot determine anything from the picture I posted though and if they did I'd love to get my hands on two.
Your previous post was noted, using the "u" channel repair and that's what I'm doing now with some 929motorsports style strengthening channel over the top to finish just in case I need to place a stand there in the future.
I still think the factory used something else, an adapter of sorts, that fitted around and inside those front lift points, for added strength while lifting. Cannot determine anything from the picture I posted though and if they did I'd love to get my hands on two.
#4
Rennlist Member
The ones in front are not strong enough to use alone to jack up one side of the car, you can deform the front floor pan you can look at my car for proof. If all 4 are used then they can support the car. It is how the body was originally mated to the drive train at the factory.
#5
I bought a set of Quick Jacks and use the rear safe points and the front "not safe" points. Only way to lift the car with them. Haven't had any issues yet.
Seeing the picture above, seems it would be ok to use the not safe points if you lift the car all at once. ??
Seeing the picture above, seems it would be ok to use the not safe points if you lift the car all at once. ??
#7
Sorry to hijack the thread but pdxfj can you post a photo of 951 on Quick Jack? I'm thinking of buying one too but not sure how good it fits under 951. One photo is worth 1000 words as they say...
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#8
I have a NA car, but will be the same.. Fits fine under the car and leaves the center open to get the full exhaust system out. They pay for themselves in no time at all. Not only are they nice for working under the car but very nice for working in the engine compartment while in the full up position. No bending way over to get at things. Just lean over a bit and most everything is there.
Takes a bit of fiddling to get the rubber blocks lined up. Have been able to get in and out of the car and start it while on the lift. Totally stable.
One thing I found they are not good for is removing or lowering the torsion bar. The QJ's are a bit too long and are in the way.
Takes a bit of fiddling to get the rubber blocks lined up. Have been able to get in and out of the car and start it while on the lift. Totally stable.
One thing I found they are not good for is removing or lowering the torsion bar. The QJ's are a bit too long and are in the way.
#10
Rennlist Member
Those Quick jacks really look nice! Yeahhh on the "must get" list for sure! BTW, thank you V2 for sharing with us what the underside of your car looks like!! It's the red one, right?? Is that the before or after pic of the undercoat??? inquiring minds want to know!
#11
Rennlist Member
In that picture, I see jack "pucks"... I've been trying to get one of my 3D printing buddies to print me some for my jacks. I think if you spread out the weight some, and get away from those pointy parts on most jacks you'd be ok. But that's just me.
#12
Rennlist Member
I saw some on E-bay but they were for the pinch seam along the bottom side of the cars...Not strong enough for our cars at least at the rocker panels. Let me know if you find some..KDVR maybe? He does great 3 d printing stuff...helped me bunches on a steering adapter on another car project.
#13
Rennlist Member
I saw some on E-bay but they were for the pinch seam along the bottom side of the cars...Not strong enough for our cars at least at the rocker panels. Let me know if you find some..KDVR maybe? He does great 3 d printing stuff...helped me bunches on a steering adapter on another car project.