Lol...Like an old mercedes with 10 degrees of caster. I like steering that fattens up in the corners.

 

The picture contrast doesn't show it that well, but if you squint a bit and use your imagination I think you can see where the heat shrink attaches the equalizer tube to the port.


Now you bring this up? No, I didn't use copper never seize on them, but it isn't too late. It was a true bear getting the front bushings in on those arms, as you know there's a whole 'nother thread on that subject.

I will give that some serious consideration. PowerFlex didn't mention it...

 

I promise a complete review of my impressions. I've saved the original powered rack and all the re-usable components just in case. Hopefully I'll like it though.

I feel like I'm getting close. Hoping to have the car on the road in the next few weeks.

 

https://www.powerflex.co.uk/road-series/fitting-guides


no better time than now. if you wait, it might wear the flutes on the inner bore of the plastic.

 

Then all is OK, I followed that guide to the letter I believe and did grease all parts using the supplied tube, did I miss something? I didn't see the grease being copper no seize?

 

Maybe I should mention that the video segment doesn't play on my machine.

 

i've had a "depowered" rack (to the extent of removing all the lines and plugging the holes and greasing the rack internals heavily) for over 10 years...
but the "shimmed valve body" or however it could be termed from the xschop thread is something i've been wanting to try for a while too, that is the impression i am looking for.

my rack is OK but there is the predictable "free play" on center due to the slop allowed from the torsion bar inside the pinion housing which is what gets locked out by those shims/washers. steering effort is fine, i just want to get rid of the play.

 

Spencer, did you also remove the internal "piston" on yours? That's the part I think should make the most difference between the feel of an xschop style de-powered rack and one that's just been disconnected from the pump and plugged.

I'm sure you've seen my analysis of the way those spools work and why locking them is important, but I won't have tried it without locking them so I'm not sure I can give you much in the way of comparison.

I will, however, do my damndest

 

Thomas, you have many, many thanks for noticing this little deficiency in the installation. A picture must truly be worth a thousand words.

Yes, I had left the ground wire installed on the old cross member. It is being transferred to the brand spanking new (to me) LR three piece cross member first thing in the morning. I'll also be securing that equalizer tube with tie wraps.

I think, in honor of your finding this problem before I did, I'll take another picture of the completed assembly and post it.

My sincere thanks,

 

Just to confirm, if you increase exposure and decrease contrast you can see the shrink tube at the equalizer port.

I use a Mac and Preview. Under the "tools" heading you can make those adjustments. I've found it's better to underexpose these pictures than overexpose them because you can pull out details like that in an underexposure. If it's overexposed, it's just gone.

 

my workaround for old age is a 20" Sony screen running at 125% zoom.

some mornings, i wake up blind, then realize its just my eyebrows.

 

Late to the party, but thought I would throw in how I did it. Like Otto there was no way to secure the universal joint to the steering rack with it installed and the crossmember bolted. I loosely installed the rack to the unbolted crossmember with tierods and boots in place. The clamp bolts are so short that even loosely installed there is next to no movement with both clamps in place. I then supported the crossmember/rack with a jack and slowly lifted it into place. I put some anti-seize on the splines to help it slide into place. The sweet spot seemed to be about 1.5" lower than the final position. After thread sealant and lower bolt being torqued the crossmember was raised and bolted lining up with marks made before disassembly. Last was attaching tierods to the knuckle.

 

Final photo of installed "de-powered" steering rack with new equalizer tube, ground wire and tie-wraps. Yes, I did hit both ends of the ground wire with De-Oxit during installation. Don't leave home without it

As I mentioned, the rack is installed on the Lyndsey Racing 3 piece cross member, which will give me easy access (I hope) when I begin the next stage of this project, which will be dropping the oil pan and replacing the rod bearings.

Next in line are the tie rod ends, followed by the new 30mm front sway bar & Delrin bushings. Then it's just a matter of re-installing the starter motor, clutch slave and the exhaust system and we're off to the races.

 

For me, living in a coastal Redwood forest, it's usually moss.