How to align 951 headlight assembly?
10-27-2003, 11:38 AM
#1
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How to align 951 headlight assembly?
I'm having trouble figuring out how and what to adjust to align the headlight cover assembly to have equal gap spacing when closed. Is the pivot point bracket (fender) adjustable or is that single center mount the only one. My right headlight seems a bit twisted to the right when closed. Any help is greatly appreciated
10-27-2003, 11:47 AM
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i have the same problem... my headlights seem to be to far back leaving a large gap between the headlights and the header panel, and i have a very small gap between the headlights and the hood. it would be great to fix this! i have looked at it briefly but have never found a way to adjust it.
i also would like to know how to fix this...
anyone?
i also would like to know how to fix this...
anyone?
10-29-2003, 02:40 PM
#3
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Kevin,
I finally found an old write-up from a Randy V, a 928 Moderator. The link doesn't let me in, says I'm not registered on that Forum? Anyway, it should be very similar for our 944. Here's a paste of what he wrote up:
Always nice to know who's on the other end. Thanks Patrick.
As I indicated, adjusting the light position is relatively easy.
Each light 'pod' is attached to a rigid steel bar that passes through a bushing that is bolted through slotted holes in the bulkhead between the fender area and the engine compartment. Each light bar attaches to the central control tube (my terminology) that is actuated by the headlight control motor.
To center the light, the bushing on each side must still be in good condition. These are made of a plastic polymer and tend to self-destruct over time.
Assuming yours are OK, loosen the two 10 mm bolts that run through the bushing - do not remove them or you'll have lots o' fun trying to get them back in. Loosening these allows front-to-back adjustment of the light assembly.
Now, loosen the two bolts that connect the light rod to the central control tube. These are funky through-bolts that require a wrench on each end. You will see the boltheads on the other side only when the lights are raised (or is it retracted - well, one of the two). Loosening these allows some lateral left-to-right adjustment of the light.
Now you can wiggle the light front/back and left/right to where it looks best. - It may take a bit of coaxing to get it to move the first time - if I recall, I got it loose with the lights up, then centered them when they were retracted.
When you get them where you want 'em, tighten everything back up, being careful not to overtighten the bushing bolts.
Now that they are centered in the cut-outs, they may be too low or too high when retracted, causing a big gap between the pod and the fender opening. To measure for proper retraction height i used a straight edge across the fender at the top (rear) of the cut-out. The top edge of the 8" lights should just touch that straight edge. With the 7" lights, adjust them to minmize the gap between the fender opening, with the lights not protruding above the fender profile.
Adjusting the depth of the retracted position is easy. On the driver's side you will need to remove the tire and the forward wheelwell liner. Access on the passenger side is much easier - you can work from under the car without the need to raise the front end.
In the retracted position, there is a metal flange on the light assembly that contacts an adjustment bolt head. Raise the headlights (then turn off the key - remove the key to prevent an accidental retraction - then switch the lights to 'off'). Using a 10mm socket or wrench, turn that bolt head in to lower the retracted position, out to raise the retracted position. Adjust each side so both headlights are at the same retracted height. [Quote]
I'm going to try and look at mine tonight.
Steve
I finally found an old write-up from a Randy V, a 928 Moderator. The link doesn't let me in, says I'm not registered on that Forum? Anyway, it should be very similar for our 944. Here's a paste of what he wrote up:
Always nice to know who's on the other end. Thanks Patrick.
As I indicated, adjusting the light position is relatively easy.
Each light 'pod' is attached to a rigid steel bar that passes through a bushing that is bolted through slotted holes in the bulkhead between the fender area and the engine compartment. Each light bar attaches to the central control tube (my terminology) that is actuated by the headlight control motor.
To center the light, the bushing on each side must still be in good condition. These are made of a plastic polymer and tend to self-destruct over time.
Assuming yours are OK, loosen the two 10 mm bolts that run through the bushing - do not remove them or you'll have lots o' fun trying to get them back in. Loosening these allows front-to-back adjustment of the light assembly.
Now, loosen the two bolts that connect the light rod to the central control tube. These are funky through-bolts that require a wrench on each end. You will see the boltheads on the other side only when the lights are raised (or is it retracted - well, one of the two). Loosening these allows some lateral left-to-right adjustment of the light.
Now you can wiggle the light front/back and left/right to where it looks best. - It may take a bit of coaxing to get it to move the first time - if I recall, I got it loose with the lights up, then centered them when they were retracted.
When you get them where you want 'em, tighten everything back up, being careful not to overtighten the bushing bolts.
Now that they are centered in the cut-outs, they may be too low or too high when retracted, causing a big gap between the pod and the fender opening. To measure for proper retraction height i used a straight edge across the fender at the top (rear) of the cut-out. The top edge of the 8" lights should just touch that straight edge. With the 7" lights, adjust them to minmize the gap between the fender opening, with the lights not protruding above the fender profile.
Adjusting the depth of the retracted position is easy. On the driver's side you will need to remove the tire and the forward wheelwell liner. Access on the passenger side is much easier - you can work from under the car without the need to raise the front end.
In the retracted position, there is a metal flange on the light assembly that contacts an adjustment bolt head. Raise the headlights (then turn off the key - remove the key to prevent an accidental retraction - then switch the lights to 'off'). Using a 10mm socket or wrench, turn that bolt head in to lower the retracted position, out to raise the retracted position. Adjust each side so both headlights are at the same retracted height. [Quote]
I'm going to try and look at mine tonight.
Steve
04-01-2006, 02:07 PM
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Here's an old thread..... I'm having a hard time interpreting Kuhl951s instructions. One of my headlights sits a little too close to the fender(outboard). I'm trying to slide it inboard a bit (closer to the Porsche emblem). Anyone done this before? I dont know where these bolts that run through a bushing are, nor where the funky through bolts are.
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11-24-2008, 08:53 AM
#9
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Nothing like a good 5 year old thread that went nowhere. I had only owned my 951 for one week. Let us know what you find out and do a writeup.
11-24-2008, 12:12 PM
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OK. What you need to know is in order to adjust the headlight assembly, you need to remove the header panel, as well as take out the the wheel well liners. Thats where the heads of the bolts are for the triangular pieces. You loosen those and you'll have some play to move the light up/down front/back. The shims are for left/right adjustment. All the adjustment is in those bolts. There's nothing else afaik to adjust.
11-24-2008, 06:03 PM
#13