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Fun with front seals

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Old 08-13-2016, 06:32 PM
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944 Lachlan
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Default Fun with front seals

So I'm digging into the front seals. I'm on the main seal, but Clarke says I need to remove the o ring first. My o ring is pretty hard (also it's black, not green), and I've been prodding at it with a pick but am unable to get it to budge. I'm also nervous about scratching either surface. Any tips on getting that o ring free?


Old 08-13-2016, 11:31 PM
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Ok, got it out.. The trick is to take the pick down the outside edge at a 45 degree angle towards the center.

On a related note, I'm looking at replacing my races. Pelican lists the camshaft race as 928.105.139.02, same as the balance shaft races. Paragon lists 928.105.139.04, a different (and far more expensive) part. Are the two interchangeable?
Old 08-14-2016, 10:48 AM
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odonnell
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For a 85.5, it's a different part I believe. On the early cars, they were all the same.
Old 08-14-2016, 11:01 AM
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cruise98
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The races and seals were updated. Depending on the engine number in yours, you might be able to use either one, but be sure the seal matches the race. Paragon is showing the updated part. There is a 2mm difference in inner diameter.
Old 08-14-2016, 12:41 PM
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Thanks. I'll grab the .04 one for the camshaft then.
Old 08-18-2016, 09:45 AM
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What does everybody put on their seals when they go in? Bearing grease, oil, or loctite 574?
Old 08-18-2016, 12:05 PM
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only use syl glide.. also get new balance O-rings... behind upper b/s cap and lower b/s power steering console
Old 08-18-2016, 01:16 PM
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Roger, already got my rear bs seals from Voith. I don't think I have a tube of syl glide around anymore--have to go pick some up. I'm surprised because I think I've seen articles on Pelican that say either oil or sealant.

Edit: oh, I see you're talking about the forward o-rings. I think I got these in the Paragon kit.
Old 08-18-2016, 11:33 PM
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Alrighty, I got the new seals onto the upper balance shaft and torqued it down according to the diagram on clarkes garage. I notice that the shaft can no longer be spun by hand, as it could be before. I'm hoping that just a consequence of new seals, and not that I misaligned something. Is that new tightness to be expected?
Old 08-18-2016, 11:52 PM
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I just put engine oil on the seals when installing, all around ID/OD.
Old 08-19-2016, 01:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 944 Lachlan
Alrighty, I got the new seals onto the upper balance shaft and torqued it down according to the diagram on clarkes garage. I notice that the shaft can no longer be spun by hand, as it could be before. I'm hoping that just a consequence of new seals, and not that I misaligned something. Is that new tightness to be expected?
They should spin fairly easily by hand. Something must be wrong.
Old 08-27-2016, 06:01 PM
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What's the proper torque for the bearing cap? As far as I can see, Clarks garage only has the torques for the cover, not for the separate cap.

i found an article on 944 online that says first to 15nm, then to 33nm, but when I tighten them that much, they do not spin. These are new rear bearings all greased up.

Last edited by 944 Lachlan; 08-27-2016 at 07:06 PM.
Old 08-27-2016, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 944 Lachlan
What's the proper torque for the bearing cap? As far as I can see, Clarks garage only has the torques for the cover, not for the separate cap.

i found an article on 944 online that says first to 15nm, then to 33nm, but when I tighten them that much, they do not spin. These are new rear bearings all greased up.
Are you talking about the front piece that houses the balance shaft seal? If so, the torque spec is listed in Clark's Garage:

16. Torque the front support bolts (M8) to 20 Nm (15 ft-lb).
As a rule, 15 ft/lbs is the standard for M8 bolts. 33nm is almost 25 ft/lbs which is quite a bit too tight. It should definitely turn by hand without much resistance.
Old 08-27-2016, 07:45 PM
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Not the front supports, no. I'm talking about the caps that hold the rear bearings to the shaft.
Old 08-27-2016, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 944 Lachlan
Not the front supports, no. I'm talking about the caps that hold the rear bearings to the shaft.
Be careful, there are two different sets of rear bearings, depending on the year. I imagine It's tied to the change from the seperate cap/cover design to the unitized design, but I could be wrong...


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