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So I'm digging into the front seals. I'm on the main seal, but Clarke says I need to remove the o ring first. My o ring is pretty hard (also it's black, not green), and I've been prodding at it with a pick but am unable to get it to budge. I'm also nervous about scratching either surface. Any tips on getting that o ring free?
Ok, got it out.. The trick is to take the pick down the outside edge at a 45 degree angle towards the center.
On a related note, I'm looking at replacing my races. Pelican lists the camshaft race as 928.105.139.02, same as the balance shaft races. Paragon lists 928.105.139.04, a different (and far more expensive) part. Are the two interchangeable?
The races and seals were updated. Depending on the engine number in yours, you might be able to use either one, but be sure the seal matches the race. Paragon is showing the updated part. There is a 2mm difference in inner diameter.
Roger, already got my rear bs seals from Voith. I don't think I have a tube of syl glide around anymore--have to go pick some up. I'm surprised because I think I've seen articles on Pelican that say either oil or sealant.
Edit: oh, I see you're talking about the forward o-rings. I think I got these in the Paragon kit.
Alrighty, I got the new seals onto the upper balance shaft and torqued it down according to the diagram on clarkes garage. I notice that the shaft can no longer be spun by hand, as it could be before. I'm hoping that just a consequence of new seals, and not that I misaligned something. Is that new tightness to be expected?
Alrighty, I got the new seals onto the upper balance shaft and torqued it down according to the diagram on clarkes garage. I notice that the shaft can no longer be spun by hand, as it could be before. I'm hoping that just a consequence of new seals, and not that I misaligned something. Is that new tightness to be expected?
They should spin fairly easily by hand. Something must be wrong.
What's the proper torque for the bearing cap? As far as I can see, Clarks garage only has the torques for the cover, not for the separate cap.
i found an article on 944 online that says first to 15nm, then to 33nm, but when I tighten them that much, they do not spin. These are new rear bearings all greased up.
Last edited by 944 Lachlan; 08-27-2016 at 07:06 PM.
What's the proper torque for the bearing cap? As far as I can see, Clarks garage only has the torques for the cover, not for the separate cap.
i found an article on 944 online that says first to 15nm, then to 33nm, but when I tighten them that much, they do not spin. These are new rear bearings all greased up.
Are you talking about the front piece that houses the balance shaft seal? If so, the torque spec is listed in Clark's Garage:
16. Torque the front support bolts (M8) to 20 Nm (15 ft-lb).
As a rule, 15 ft/lbs is the standard for M8 bolts. 33nm is almost 25 ft/lbs which is quite a bit too tight. It should definitely turn by hand without much resistance.
Not the front supports, no. I'm talking about the caps that hold the rear bearings to the shaft.
Be careful, there are two different sets of rear bearings, depending on the year. I imagine It's tied to the change from the seperate cap/cover design to the unitized design, but I could be wrong...