968 Shift rod coupler bolt
#16
Rennlist Member
If you look at the point where the bolt goes in, you'll see that there are reliefs cut parallel with the shaft, and that the "aft-most" tab on the linkage has been changed to a rigid arm that departs at an angle. It could be the same bolt, I just wanted to draw attention to the different linkage design.
Yes, I rebuild them on order, but I posted the instructions somewhere if you ever want to have a stab at it yourself, happy to share more details on request.
Yes, I rebuild them on order, but I posted the instructions somewhere if you ever want to have a stab at it yourself, happy to share more details on request.
#17
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Bottom picture is beautiful. Doesn't look like the point is that critical as the shaft counter sink is big and shallow.
I think I will make it. M8x60
I really think the screw end should have countersink on it and a ball bearing should be slid in, retained by the screw and the countersink in the shaft. Either way would probably work. No real load on this, just vibration so the wire is the ticket.
Great info, thanks everyone.
I think I will make it. M8x60
I really think the screw end should have countersink on it and a ball bearing should be slid in, retained by the screw and the countersink in the shaft. Either way would probably work. No real load on this, just vibration so the wire is the ticket.
Great info, thanks everyone.
#18
Rennlist Member
If you look at the point where the bolt goes in, you'll see that there are reliefs cut parallel with the shaft, and that the "aft-most" tab on the linkage has been changed to a rigid arm that departs at an angle. It could be the same bolt, I just wanted to draw attention to the different linkage design.
Yes, I rebuild them on order, but I posted the instructions somewhere if you ever
Yes, I rebuild them on order, but I posted the instructions somewhere if you ever
Honestly, even with the detailed description and the close up photos, I can't see what you're describing to me. Maybe it's my latent dyslexia at play...
There still seems to be confusion about the length. Mine's no larger than M8 x 16 not M8 x 60. Am I even looking at the same bolt?
#19
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the bolt is not even close to 60mm long. 16mm is correct and the point actually IS important. if you get the angle wrong, get it lopsided, get the taper rate wrong, or make the point either too long or two small I promise you'll be calling a tow truck; take my word on that. its a cheap bolt, easily available from vendors. dont try and make it.
#20
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Agree with that in general. I would look at machining it to save time not the $10, looks like 7-10 days shipping lead time. Don't see it in stock anywhere.
#21
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Now to really mess with our minds - whats the torque spec for that bolt?
My guess is minimal, let the safety wire do the work and let the parts float relatively free.
My guess is minimal, let the safety wire do the work and let the parts float relatively free.
#23
Rennlist Member
Check it. YMMV.
Correction:
Generic M8 1.25 pitch 8.8 bolts:
Plated 25 nm Unplated 23 nm
Plated 18.75 ftlbs Unplated 17.25 ftlbs
Source: https://www.imperialsupplies.com/pdf...rquecharts.pdf
Last edited by Otto Mechanic; 07-18-2016 at 08:10 PM.
#25
Get it from your dealer, they will get it faster if it has to come out of Porsche stock. Pelican and the like order it from porsche, have it shipped to them, then ship it to you for things like that and you lose a lot of time.
#26
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+ for the dealer, I just ordered a 996 tow hook for my 951, next day pickup and my local dealer for 10 bucks out the door. they were 35 - 40 bucks everywhere online. sometimes, though rare, the dealer is the best option.
#27
Rennlist Member
I want one for both cars though so I think I'll call Carlson on Monday.