Wanting to delete my brake booster for a motor swap on a 951.
Need insight on who has done this. Not doing hydroboost.

NOT LOOKING FOR **** TALKERS, just want stories and answers.

-What products/ brands/ setup did you go with?
-What did you learn or have to adjust, fix?
-Did you do only brakes or do clutch and/or throttle too?
-What are your thoughts?
-How good do the brakes work?
-Are you happy with/ confident with your brakes?
Pictures are appreciated.
Thank You

 

If you stay with a single master cylinder, definitely go smaller bore.
Stock 944 is 15/16", you want a 3/4" probably or maybe even 5/8" with turbo brakes.

I drove an LS1 951 with manual brakes with stock master cylinder and you have to really work for it to stop. HUUUGE pedal effort.

 

good info, do you know what pads were on that car? My 951 has autozone pads and doesnt stop as in a new civic would out stop it. My other 951 had pagid blacks and was very impressive.

My evo 9 had the brembos with sport pads and didnt stop well at all. My acura tl has the same brembos and stops 200% better which made me think the evo master cylinder was not as good as the acura. Car to car tests are interesting.

 

Dude, you need a hydroboost or other assist setup. Or you might be able to make-do with a real dual master cylinder setup, like from Tilton.

Sorry for the **** talkin', but that's the word on the street.

 

There are probably other variables. Different biasing, ABS threshold/program, weight, F/R weight balance, car weight, tires, road, etc. etc.

As for the topic at hand, if this is a street car there is really no point (IMO) in converting to manual brakes. If you have an engine swap that renders the stock booster useless, I would get a smaller booster.

 

hydroboost it, also install the firewall brace (pretty sure only944.com still has them). Get better pads!

 

So this is just for a road car? And you've had a previous 951 that stopped well? You don't need to go to any fancy extremes to get the current one to stop well. Just need to sort out what you have and make it work properly. If for a track car then that's different...although plenty of people have made the Porsche system work well there also. We run a Tilton pedal box with no assist and it works great but that's not needed in a street car.

 

I have daily driven a manual brake 944 for the last 4 years. My setup is a dual master cylinder with a tilton DMC mount with adjustable bias bar. I like it. The brakes are smooth and seem to brake fine. My wife drives the car and doesn't notice it isn't power assisted. If there was something to complain about, she would notice.

 

I have driven a small car without assisted braking once, an Opel Tigra.
That is a drag race car and weight reduction dictated the removal of the brake booster.
However, i had to stomp on the brakes to stop from rolling at 30mph and i'm a pretty strong guy.
It is the upmost stupid idea to remove brake servo assistance. If you go to the trouble of swapping an engine you might as well just chop that area and weld it 3 inches inwards into the cabin so you can keep the booster.

 

Guys...running a smaller diameter master cylinder precludes the need for the booster.
It's not a drag-race only thing.

The booster is to make pedal effort for a given cylinder easier, as a balance between pressure and pedal travel.

Smaller diameter master cylinder means less pressure but longer travel, if you can live with it.

 

So Dillon you doing an LS swap in xsboost's old car?

 

thank you everyone for the information. Every bit helps.
and I am about a year out on this but i am trying to put a 2JZGTE into my 951

 

I think my brakes work great, actually everyone that has driven it thinks the same. There was a lot of trial and error to get a MC combination and bias adjustment that felt good.

If I were to do it again I would go with a hydroboost system using an adapter to mount the factory 951 MC. Would have saved time.

 

I deleted my brake booster for an engine swap. Installed a floor-mount pedal box with dual masters and a balance bar. This is a track car and I struggled with balance until retrofitting Boxster ABS. Now all is well but pedal effort is high even with high friction pads which shorten rotor life.

I too would use hydroboost with the 951 master if I were to do it again.

 

We did similar setup and I've never had better brakes. That is without ABS.

Dillon what trans are you going to use?