After doing a bit more research it seems that since I'm pretty sure I have the one piece crossover pipe I'm going to have to remove the intake and brake booster shield to access the bolts for the turbo. I've always have had a fear of having to get to those bolts!!!

 

Got oil leaks? Pull the motor. . .simplifies clutch job a great deal.

 

+1
A lot easier to get the clutch fork pin out when the engine is sitting in front of you, and not above you in a cramped spot.


That said I don't know why the book time is so long for a 944 clutch...dropping the transmission takes 30 minutes and yanking the torque tube back from the BH is probably the hardest part due to stuck splines.

 

You shouldn't have to pull the brake booster heat shield to unbolt the crossover pipe from the turbo. It is tricky however. There is one you get from underneath - the other 3 can be done from the top. IIRC, I had to remove the intake, aux water pump and the water fitting from the turbocharger. Even then it slow going.

BTW, I believe the factory "1 piece" vs "2 piece" crossover just refers to whether the wastegate inlet is separate or not - it doesn't change how the crossover pipe comes off the car.

 

if this is true, why is it easier to remove the bell housing off with a two piece rather than a 1 piece? Isn't the crossover pipe still in your way?

 

Honestly, I don't know. I didn't realize that was the case - maybe the WG inlet pipe is the only piece that's in the way then.

 

Negative.

 

Sweet. That will make things a bit easier

 

Ok, I'm about 12 hours in.

But I made a mistake. When we got to the step where you're supposed to mark the orientation of the collar where the drive shaft meets the input shaft of the transmission I thought they meant how far down the splines not the alignment to the splines.

Now that the tranny is off the car when it comes to installation what should I do?

 

With all honesty. It doesn't matter. The splines don't need to align to exactly where they came off from.

If you left the collar on the gearbox side, it'll be facing the right way. I'm pretty sure that doesn't matter also as both sides have a recess for the bolts to pass through on both shafts.

 

Ok my clutch change just officially turned into a rebuild torque tube project. I loosened all the bolts per Clarks but the torsion tube won't drop. And before you ask, I double checked all the bolts we out

 

So, I'm still trying to get the flippn' torque tube down. I've gotten the rear torsion tube to drop, however the TT is sitting on some aluminum brace that attach to the chassis. Does this need to drop too?

 

Yeah, there's one with 4 bolts, fore of the torsion tube carrier. You also need to rotate the torque tube 180* so the "Dog ears" clear everything.

 

Well I guess I found my clutch judder. So here is my worn out clutch assembly. While it looks pretty rough the pressure plate is smooth, but I'm assuming it can be resurfaced. Any body see anything different?

 

I'm trying to determine which grease and where to put it on the throughout bearing assembly as you install it on the pressure plate. Can somebody give me advice as to what in where it goes.