NCporsche

Problem first, then back story, then questions.

After some spirited mountain driving I went into a hard downhill right switchback and noticed the car was not the same. There was a warning light on the dash indicating a brake fluid issue. At home the 944 was 3/4" lower on passenger side. Looking under the hood, the engine is tilted low to the rear driver side thus the brake fluid reservoir is tilted. No loss of fluid. Engine is tight and sound.

Upon further examination, once on the lift, the driver side motor mount has collapsed and the front passenger side shock is bad and leaking. The brake rotors also need replacing.

There is work to be done.

EDIT-personal back story deleted. 12/18/15


Installation is not the problem, I have that kind of help along with full set of shop manuals. Ordering the correct parts is the problem.

Current wheels are stock 15" phone dials sporting new Pirelli P6000s.

Motor mounts are original, need new ones ordered. Stay with OEM?

Replacing shocks. I'm thinking Koni adjustable a on all four corners. $1,000. I can spend the $ but is this best option?

Brakes, just received four cryogenic rotors from Frozen Rotors through a Rennlist site sponsor. See, my memory fails me to name the sponsor. Will need replacement pads. Brand? Performance class? New calipers too?

What else " while you are in there"shall, I do? Engine has new belts.

Thanks in advance.

SloMo228

I rebuilt my 944's suspension this summer and I'm quite pleased with it. Here's what I did:

- All bushings replaced (Elephant Racing "sport" rubber where available)
- Balljoints rebuilt with Rennbay kit
- Koni Yellows all around
- Ground Control coilover conversion in front with 200 lb/in springs
- Ground Control camber plates (cheaper than replacing the OEM rubber strut mounts and more solid, too.)
- 26mm torsion bars
- Solid torsion bar housing mounts
- 26.8mm front swaybar with urethane bushings

I still plan to get a 19mm adjustable rear swaybar, but this setup works very nicely for me.

I mostly drive on the street, and it's still comfortable enough for me even on Detroit roads, but the car handles better and has much less body roll than stock. It's not completely gone as I like to have a little roll for driver feedback, but the stock setup rolls like an SUV.

I don't know what it would do to your autocross class, though. You definitely would not be able to run in a stock class anymore.

Edit: for brakes, the stock calipers are probably more than adequate for autocross. On mine, I have stock rear calipers and 4-piston Volvo calipers on the front. I rebuilt the calipers and flushed with new ATE 200 fluid, and I run EBC Redstuff pads. They're not the highest-performance pads out there but they work well for sprited street driving and are fairly low dust. I ran Yellowstuff pads before and they were better performing but dust like crazy. I still have the Yellowstuff pads (only about 3000 miles on them) if you're interested.