well... I am 3 hours into a speedo cable replacement , the majority of time spent on getting the speedo dasboard lights mounted properly in the speedo.. getting speedo alignment correct, new gaskets, et al (I did leave the steering wheel on- writeup to follow. The cable thru the firewall was a snap- I have a new technique for that!!)

I digress... How does the cable mount to the wheel hub? My manual (Haynes) has no exploded view. If anyone has a PET could they post the exploded view and assy instructions?

My speedo cable snapped about 4" out of of the hub, I can see the cable going into the hub- but I cant see any access to the cable without removing the wheel, caliper and rotor.

Any Ideas?? There is a cold beer in this for somebody!

 

You have to take off the wheel and pop off the metal cover on the hub. The square hole in the center of the cover is the end of the cable. I believe there is also a "C" clip holding it. Once you get it out from here you can pull the cable free from behind the spindle.

 

Thanks M758!

Awesome! If we werent getting poured on as I type I'd have her done! I had to button it up as the storm just rolled in. Yep- I'm working on a gravel driveway in the open again!!!! Ahh.. Illinois.

I figgered it was easier than I was thinking..
Onto new rear calipers and rotors tomorrow!!!!

 

I just did mine last Friday.

When putting the cable back in, put some wheel bearing grease on the end (the last 6"-8" of the housing of the cable) of the cable itself, BEFORE you feed it through the spindle. If it is not going in with minimal effort, pull it out, shoot some wd-40 into the spindle hole, lubricate the cable some more, and try again.

If you squeeze the cable with a pair of pliers trying to push it in, you'll damage it. Ask me how I know...

-Kevin

 

Thanks Kev...

Went in with no problem. took all of 5 minutes, pulled the c-clip, removed the cap, installed new cable. (Added new rubber bushings as well on the chassis holes)
Road tested- NO bouncing speedo!!

I knew it had to be easier than I thought. I need to get a PET...

Thanks all!

 

I was able to get the lower rubber grommet at the dealer - but not the upper one - he could not find it on PET - do you have the part numbers?

So, I went to the auto parts store and improvised with something else.

I have just a _little_ bounce under 20MPH (less than 1/4 of the width of the needle). You wouldn't notice unless you had OCD .

Kevin

 

Kevin- I just bought a suitable rubber split o-ring at Lowes.. 96 cents for 2.
I'm thinking of using a teflon split cable wrap on where the cable goes through the chassis mounts- less friction is a good thing, mmkay..

BTW- No bounce on the needle at all. I'm glad I took as much time as I did- I tried to bend the cable as little as possible.

OK- Here's the trick...
If your cable goes like mine did- it will leave a foot or so of cable in the engine compartment and still attatched to the speedo guage.. Pull the spedo out of the cluster, cut the cable near the speedo mount, electrical tape ( use enough to make sure it wont come loose- I wrapped it 3 times about 3" on each side of the "splice") the new cable end to the old cable in the passenger compartment and pull thru the firewall. (Old Cat5 cable puller's trick!)
Took a total of 15 seconds to get the new cable placement correct.

- Enjoy!

 

The first time I did the cable, I had no bounce. Then I removed it to add the grommets - and bent the cable. This new one was installed with the lubrication I described above.

Only I would notice that the needle has a little wobble.

I pulled a nylon string through by tying it to the hub end of the cable (right where the cable is connected to the metal end). When pulling the new cable through, in addition to tying the string to the cable, I taped the string to the cable so that it would pull straight through.

I removed the steering wheel, turn signals, and pulled out the instrument cluster enough to unscrew the speedo cable and move the whole thing to one side.

Kevin

 

You also need to putty/seal the square end of the cable where it comes through the wheel gease cap. Keeps water out of the wheel bearings.